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Thread: Good Mechanic or Shop?

  1. #1
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    Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Anyone have a good mechanic or shop to have distributor and timing chain/gears work performed on a 95 yj 2.5l? I am located at the 51 and 101 interchange in North Phoenix.

  2. #2

    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    What is wrong with the motor that you want this done? thanks tim

  3. #3
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Was replacing the water pump and timing chain and gears. Had the engine to TDC on compression, rotor was at #1 cylinder, and crank was at 0. My timing mark on my crankshaft was right on, but the camshaft mark was 180 degrees off. So the timing on the camshaft needs to be reset. So distributor has to be removed, camshaft to proper position with valves closed on compression stroke. Never done anything like this before and don't want to mess it up. Main reason I found this out was trying to figure out a rattling coming from the front of the engine, and intermittent grinding noise coasting and giving it gas in 4th and 5th gear, accompanied by a burning exhaust smell, and no power in higher rpms. And long cranking before firing. Figured my chain had slack in it, but I am thinking it is the intake and exhaust valves opening at the wrong times.

  4. #4
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Absolute off-road... Dude..go see joe

  5. #5
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Quote Originally Posted by GottaYJ View Post
    Was replacing the water pump and timing chain and gears. Had the engine to TDC on compression, rotor was at #1 cylinder, and crank was at 0. My timing mark on my crankshaft was right on, but the camshaft mark was 180 degrees off. So the timing on the camshaft needs to be reset. So distributor has to be removed, camshaft to proper position with valves closed on compression stroke. Never done anything like this before and don't want to mess it up. Main reason I found this out was trying to figure out a rattling coming from the front of the engine, and intermittent grinding noise coasting and giving it gas in 4th and 5th gear, accompanied by a burning exhaust smell, and no power in higher rpms. And long cranking before firing. Figured my chain had slack in it, but I am thinking it is the intake and exhaust valves opening at the wrong times.
    If your timing was 180 out, your engine would not run at all. In fact if you jumped time that much while running, you would be replacing a motor as you would have catastrophic destruction. As far as a burning smell and no power, does your engine have a catalytic converter that may be plugged? If it was plugged that bad, it would also cause the long starting time and rattles too as the exhaust cannot escape from the combustion chamber through the exhaust system.
    My name is Daniel. I pretty much STILL do what I want.

  6. #6
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeeptrl View Post
    Absolute off-road... Dude..go see joe
    X2

    Absolute Offroad / Joe Daro
    3655 North 35th Avenue
    Phoenix, AZ 85017-4410
    (602) 248-8949
    Yeah, I'm a girl drivin a jeep you have a problem with that?

  7. #7
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Ok... trying to think this through...
    first, I do not think the 4cyl is an "interference" engine (pistons cannot hit valves even if turned independent of cam)
    second, cam determines if is compression stroke, so if crank is at TDC, cam determines if is compression stroke
    at 180 deg off is firing at wrong time

    Call me
    Quote Originally Posted by amber.hodge View Post
    Steve is so innocent. Its really cute, actually. Ah to be a kid again....
    "anyone who says they know everything about anything is either a fool or a liar"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlneyJeeps View Post
    Ok... trying to think this through...
    first, I do not think the 4cyl is an "interference" engine (pistons cannot hit valves even if turned independent of cam)
    second, cam determines if is compression stroke, so if crank is at TDC, cam determines if is compression stroke
    at 180 deg off is firing at wrong time

    Call me
    X2 if #1 is at TDC and cam is 180 off you need to rotate around another rotation to line up the timing marks.
    Aaron 2008 White Unlimited Rubicon

  9. #9
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    and the great majority of the 4bangers have a slight nock to em as they age,,,, mine does and i change the earl and all is well again!
    Im back to the drawing board
    STAY TUNED!

  10. #10
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    Quote Originally Posted by azgypsy1234 View Post
    and the great majority of the 4bangers have a slight nock to em as they age,,,, mine does and i change the earl and all is well again!
    which would be the timing chain slapping on the (very likely broken / non existent tensioner)
    Quote Originally Posted by amber.hodge View Post
    Steve is so innocent. Its really cute, actually. Ah to be a kid again....
    "anyone who says they know everything about anything is either a fool or a liar"

  11. #11
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    chain is fine, tensioner is fine, the camshaft is 180 off. #1 piston at TDC with rotor on distributor points to cylinder 1 has the timing marks off. When the timing marks line up the rotor points to cylinder #4. And yes 4 cyl is non interference. You can see the mark on the crank in the correct position and the camshaft mark is top left, when it should be bottom right.

    Here is where the rotor is pointing when in that position, #1 cylinder post


  12. #12
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    when you turned the cam or crank without the chain or distributor, you re-indexed the distributor
    The distributor usually runs off the oil pump... you can remove the distributor, stick a long screwdriver or steel dowel which is slotted at end down the distributor hole and turn the oil pump to re index the distributor so that will be pointing at correct piston
    you may have to try several times to get close enough to set timing by turning distributor
    note: at TDC rotor should be just before (15 deg?) #1 for timing advance
    Last edited by OlneyJeeps; 11-24-2011 at 04:32 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by amber.hodge View Post
    Steve is so innocent. Its really cute, actually. Ah to be a kid again....
    "anyone who says they know everything about anything is either a fool or a liar"

  13. #13
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    I haven't done anything to it yet cause I don't feel comfortable reindexing the distributor.
    So I wanted to find a decent shop to do it for me.
    Last edited by GottaYJ; 11-24-2011 at 05:53 PM.

  14. #14
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    I know your probably beyond frustrated, but were missing something here. So to clarify, you have not removed the timing chain and gears yet right? If not, Have you tried to bar the engine over 180 and then check the marks again? Basicly the timing mark on the crank can be at TDC, and the #1 cylinder can be TDC, but that does not mean its on the compression stroke, it's on the exhaust stroke. So what this means it is 180 out. I would turn the engine over like it is, one full turn on the crank, (crank turns 1 full revolution for the every camshaft 1/2 revolution), check the marks again, and your distributor.

    It's just pretty hard to picture your timing jumped 180 and the motor even runs, bad or not.

    Now as far as your distributor not lining up or such, that is more common, ie loosing a tooth on the drive gear (dist or cam) for example, or if it driven off the oil pump, the shaft twisted etc, and could very well be your drivabilty issue. Other attributes for poor higher RPM performance are lack of fuel (pump getting weak) and computer timing which is contrilled by a CPS (crank position sensor).

    Also have you had a check engine light or tried to pull any codes?

    On the 2.5L, last one I put together, I recall when installing the distributor, the rotor pointed to the front of the vehicle or the 3 o'clock position. May check a Haynes or Chiltons Manual to confirm this. The 2.5 is fuel injected and computer controlled, so timing has to be set per the book, and the computer will take care of the advancement. Also, and not saying this motor is like this, as I don't remember off the top of my head, but SOME 4 cyl timing is checked off the #4 cyl. Again, have to reference a manual. This is just extra info when you get it running.
    My name is Daniel. I pretty much STILL do what I want.

  15. #15
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    Re: Good Mechanic or Shop?

    No codes are present, fuel pump works fine, timing is done at TDC with rotor pointing to #1 cylinder for this engine. The timing marks never line up with the rotor pointing at #1. If the crank is rotated another revolution the marks line up, but the rotor now points to #4. If rotated again then the marks don't line up again but the rotor points to #1. I have it put back together right now and it starts and drives, but there is that rattling upon accelerating and coasting in gear and in neutral. Replaced the clutch, input shaft bearing, throwout bearing and flywheel earlier last month thinking it was that making the noise, but it didn't change anything.

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