View Full Version : Busted some stuff
Griswold
10-16-2005, 02:25 PM
I spent some time under the jeep this morning just to have a looksee and noticed that I really need a new double cardan assembly. Where is my best bet to get one?
http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2598&stc=1&d=1129494134
http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2599&stc=1&d=1129494134
Devil Man
10-16-2005, 02:31 PM
I Have Mine Done At AAA Driveline I Think That Is The Name Off Of Lincoln & I-17 :d
Devil Man
10-16-2005, 02:39 PM
HERE IT IS A-A Arizona Driveby
2417 West Lincoln Street
Phoenix, AZ 85009
602-253-8006
D-Dub
10-16-2005, 03:22 PM
Arizona Driveline builds some bad *** drive shafts. That is the one Devil Man is talking about. Good quick service too.
4 Wheelers Supply
10-16-2005, 07:11 PM
We have been using Precision Driveline for about a year now. Fantastic service and great products. I highly recomend them.:)
Wind_Danzer
10-16-2005, 07:37 PM
I got my 8.8 flange at Master Shaft on 2020 W. Grant St. 602-254-5454
All they do is drivelines so you may want to check them out.
xFallen
10-16-2005, 07:38 PM
We have been using Precision Driveline for about a year now. Fantastic service and great products. I highly recomend them.:)
They did my front DS and it has been excellent.
Barry
Spongebob
10-17-2005, 09:01 AM
I would have to recommend Arizona Drivelines on 24th and Lincoln. Talk to Steve. His customer service is great!
Cheers,
rockwerks
10-17-2005, 09:37 AM
I have used Arizona Driveline for many years with always perfect results. Oscar the owner and the boys always do a great job! I will be ordering 2 more this week for a2001 cherokee rig
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/
here is their site. They do shafts for Tracy Jordan and many of the crawler community
SavageSun4x4
10-17-2005, 10:23 AM
Brian,
Thats pretty ugly, you got any idea how you did it or do you think it was a defect that just got stressed??
Griswold
10-17-2005, 10:44 AM
Brian,
Thats pretty ugly, you got any idea how you did it or do you think it was a defect that just got stressed??
I have no idea how or when but I may go to the yoke style now rather than the flange.
Antman
10-17-2005, 11:47 AM
In the pictures.......I dont see any grease in the CV joint, and the circle clip on the u joint looks like its ready to go! That and other than the cracked housing, it looks fine.:rolleyes: Glad you caught it in time. Be glad you crawled under the jeep and took a look.:eek:
We have a bunch of driveline shops in the Phoenix area, and one of the shops named, I'm sure will do you a good job. I guess this has become a pet peeve of mine but, Just remember to check for grease in the CV joint before you install the new shaft.
Triple-XJ
10-17-2005, 11:48 AM
Brian, good you cought that before it let loose.
As far as place, for the last few times I've needed driveline work, I've use Precision Drivelines of Az.. They have been around for about 15 years, they've given me the best pricing and they are close to me.
Precision Drivelines of Az.
602-269-1355
3225 W. Osborn rd.
http://www.precisiondrivelines.com/
xFallen
10-17-2005, 11:55 AM
[QUOTE=Griswold]I spent some time under the jeep this morning just to have a looksee and noticed that I really need a new double cardan assembly. Where is my best bet to get one?
The thing that broke, the center yoke, can be purchased separately. I think that is a 1310 but to be sure Dana has a nifty online application that given certain dimensions tells you what you have: :D
http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~2~5~1~
I think the center yoke for a 1310 is like $150-$175, not sure. You'll probably want to replace the u-joints (153x I think -- depends) which are $10-15 each if memory serves. 4Wheelers had (has?) a "buy 2 get one free" deal going on 760s and 153s which is cheaper than NAPA so I stocked up.
Are your's greasable?
Barry
Griswold
10-17-2005, 12:29 PM
I dont see any grease in the CV joint, and the circle clip on the u joint looks like its ready to go!
I degreased evrything after I pulled the shaft. The whole thing was painted grey and the circle clip is just missing the paint now. I am chasing a couple of the leads you guys have given me to get it back together.
Thanks
Griswold
10-17-2005, 12:38 PM
Thanks Barry. That site is a great tool. I have a 1350.
highjeeps
10-17-2005, 12:49 PM
Q: When considering which driveline shop to use, is it reasonable to consider what they use to balance the driveline? That is, my front driveline was recently rebuilt and washer stacks were welded onto the DL tube as balance weights. It seems to me that those could easily be knocked off if the DL scrapes against the rocks. Do different shops use different methods, and if so, what method is the best?
Larry
rockwerks
10-18-2005, 10:10 AM
Q: When considering which driveline shop to use, is it reasonable to consider what they use to balance the driveline? That is, my front driveline was recently rebuilt and washer stacks were welded onto the DL tube as balance weights. It seems to me that those could easily be knocked off if the DL scrapes against the rocks. Do different shops use different methods, and if so, what method is the best?
Larry
all use external welded weights as far as Ive seen. ususlly they dont stack but put inline with each other.
SavageSun4x4
10-18-2005, 10:30 AM
With all this talk of u joints and driveshafts, I think Brian's break is possibly unique. I would venture to say that the CV housing had a internal fracture in it to begin with that has been further developing as a result of driving and wheeling.
The subject hasn't come up here, but often does on the boards about stronger and bigger u joints such as CTM and OX. Clearly a heavy wallet investment, one which I am not a total believer in. I run 1310's in my front and rear DS and have never had one break.
SavageSun4x4
10-18-2005, 11:00 AM
Brian, DUH, where is my head at??? You got this fixed yet? Is it a DD? If your in a bind and need to get it up and running I have a spare TW shaft [Brand New] I can let you have if you need it....let me know
don
danno
10-18-2005, 11:13 AM
I have the same flange style driveshaft on my rig. I have noticed that on occasion when the rear suspension is at full droop that the CV center binds just a hair and contacts the yoke on the driveshaft side. I actually took the shaft off and clearanced that yoke a bit to keep that from happening.
I am running the same lift as you are but I am running the OME shocks which are a bit shorter at full extension than some of the other shock options offered by RE. It is possible that it could have cracked if the center section contacts and binds against the driveshaft side yoke. When you get it repaired you might want to jack up the rear and let the suspension droop fully and spin the driveshaft to check for binding to avoid the same thing again.
I am considering going with a super shorty SYE on my NP231 to give me a bit more DS length and putting a limiting strap on the center of the rear axle to allow me to run the longer shocks.
SavageSun4x4
10-18-2005, 11:21 AM
I have the same flange style driveshaft on my rig. I have noticed that on occasion when the rear suspension is at full droop that the CV center binds just a hair and contacts the yoke on the driveshaft side. I actually took the shaft off and clearanced that yoke a bit to keep that from happening.
I am running the same lift as you are but I am running the OME shocks which are a bit shorter at full extension than some of the other shock options offered by RE. It is possible that it could have cracked if the center section contacts and binds against the driveshaft side yoke. When you get it repaired you might want to jack up the rear and let the suspension droop fully and spin the driveshaft to check for binding to avoid the same thing again.
I am considering going with a super shorty SYE on my NP231 to give me a bit more DS length and putting a limiting strap on the center of the rear axle to allow me to run the longer shocks.
Yea, you got a point on that! I clearanced mine before I installed them. It doesn't take much, mostly its just cleaning and smoothing it out a bit...
rockwerks
10-18-2005, 11:49 AM
With all this talk of u joints and driveshafts, I think Brian's break is possibly unique. I would venture to say that the CV housing had a internal fracture in it to begin with that has been further developing as a result of driving and wheeling.
The subject hasn't come up here, but often does on the boards about stronger and bigger u joints such as CTM and OX. Clearly a heavy wallet investment, one which I am not a total believer in. I run 1310's in my front and rear DS and have never had one break.
exactly my thoughts, if you make the ujoints tougher what breaks next? I am building a rig now using the 1310 cv and 1350 rear single U joint. because of the load spread out over the entire CV they rarely break or go out. the rear or front single u joint takes the abuse
SavageSun4x4
10-18-2005, 12:12 PM
exactly my thoughts, if you make the ujoints tougher what breaks next? I am building a rig now using the 1310 cv and 1350 rear single U joint. because of the load spread out over the entire CV they rarely break or go out. the rear or front single u joint takes the abuse
Right on with that. I use my ds u joints as the 'fuse' in my drivetrain. Indeed they are surely the weakest link. That translates in a trailside repair of less than 30 min and less than $15 bucks. CTM nor OX can do that for me...:eek:
rockwerks
10-18-2005, 12:54 PM
Right on with that. I use my ds u joints as the 'fuse' in my drivetrain. Indeed they are surely the weakest link. That translates in a trailside repair of less than 30 min and less than $15 bucks. CTM nor OX can do that for me...:eek:
On the MJ both front and rear DS's are the exact same workign length So I jsut carry one spare shaft. 5 minute fix at most
I hate listening to these guys who have maxxed out everything axle joints u joints etc. the complain when they bust a TC chain or worse...It makes no sense to me...gotta leave that fuse!
Griswold
10-18-2005, 02:11 PM
Brian, DUH, where is my head at??? You got this fixed yet? Is it a DD? If your in a bind and need to get it up and running I have a spare TW shaft [Brand New] I can let you have if you need it....let me know
don
Thanks Don, but front wheel drive is working for now and my shaft should be ready today.
SavageSun4x4
10-18-2005, 02:56 PM
Thanks Don, but front wheel drive is working for now and my shaft should be ready today.
No problem, sorry my head wasn't thinking several days ago. Its buried in a box in the garage and I just forgot I had it...
Triple-XJ
10-18-2005, 05:14 PM
Thanks Don, but front wheel drive is working for now and my shaft should be ready today.
Where did you end up taking it?
Griswold
10-19-2005, 04:38 AM
Where did you end up taking it?
arizona driveline did not have what I needed so off to precision driveline I went. All the 1330 ujoints were junk as well as the slip shaft.
$210 and rebuilt in about 24 hours.
xFallen
10-19-2005, 08:10 AM
arizona driveline did not have what I needed so off to precision driveline I went. All the 1330 ujoints were junk as well as the slip shaft.
$210 and rebuilt in about 24 hours.
Precision is the way to go. Good to hear. That should take care of a better part of the first day's work. :D
Barry
Triple-XJ
10-19-2005, 08:43 AM
arizona driveline did not have what I needed so off to precision driveline I went. All the 1330 ujoints were junk as well as the slip shaft.
$210 and rebuilt in about 24 hours.
I'm glad it worked out for ya.
vBulletin® v3.7.0, Copyright ©2000-2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.