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View Full Version : Emissions testing Question....


Timmy.o.tool
04-27-2005, 08:57 AM
So hard is the emissions test in the phoenix area? I have been exept on my wrangler here in Pa for the past 5-6 years but I see you can only get a waiver once out there and it is rediculously expensive.

So do they just do a sniff test and you pass or you don't or do they do a full look over the vehicle to make sure nothing is out of place like in Pa?
Meaning:
non-factory carb = fail
removed vacuum air line emissions rats nest garbage = fail
removed computer = fail
and so forth and so on. The jeep runs great but I have done the engine and ignition the way that I think it should be and not the way amc screwed it up. Will I have problems with it out there or will it be a sniff sniff all good?

thanks
Tim

fhjonesjr
04-27-2005, 09:12 AM
I am assuming that you are talking about the 89 YJ since you didn't say which truck. For a 89 you have to do a roller test. That consists of puting you're truck on a set of rollers and getting it up to around 35mph ( i think that is the speed) while they sniff the tailpipe. But you HAVE to have all the factory emission equipment on the vehicle to pass. Even if you pass the sniff without the emission equip. The after market carb is ok though. Hope this helps. :D

Timmy.o.tool
04-27-2005, 09:23 AM
thats kinda funny kinda like a dyno... Yeah sorry this is on the wrangler...I'm going to sell my cherokee no need for both... well I still have the EGR valve and the 02 sensor is there, but doesn't go to any thing. I can make it look like it does I though. Basically everything is there but the computer controlled carter carb and the air injection lines. I guess I won't know if it will pass till it comes time to testing it. I'll run on my Pa tags as long as I can after I get out there till I figure things out...
thanks
tim

fhjonesjr
04-27-2005, 09:31 AM
One other thing that I don't know the answer to is the computer. When I had to emmision my 97 Grand Cherokee they plugged into the computer at the emission site. I don't think that they do that for a 89 but not sure. Also, the guys that work at the testing places sometimes don't know as much as you would think they would. I had a 79 Bronco and one of the vacum lines ran nowhere so I just stuffed it into the frame and they didn't know the difference. But you could get someone who is knowledgeable and then you won't pass. Good luck :D

fhjonesjr
04-27-2005, 09:38 AM
Also, if when you get out here you can find a mechanic to take it thru for you then they don't have to pay. They can find out what you need then you can fix it before you go thru. They get to go thru :D for diagnosis only and it won't count towards you're plates. If it passes you will still need to go thru and pay the fee to get you're plates

k7mto
04-27-2005, 10:49 AM
Let me first quantify this by stating I have yet to experience the joys of taking a vehicle through emissions testing here in AZ (or any other state for that matter).

I moved to AZ from OR 1.5 years ago and am still running on my OR tags which go dead at the end of June :eek: so I'm in the same boat (only I'm here already).

As I've been told, they do a visual inspection first and if that fails they don't even bother with the sniff/dyno test. Supposedly the testers are not mechanic quality individuals and literally "go by the book". Hence, if your engine is missing components or vacuum lines aren't attached the way the diagrams indicate, you fail. Granted, these folks may not follow all the lines and simply check the attachments at the carb, or in my case the aftermarket Howell EFI and the charcoal canister.

If you make it appear all your components and lines are attached properly, you should be OK, then just pass the sniff test. They also verify you have a catalytic converter installed so that's another piece you'll have to replace if you've redone your exhaust without one.

Good luck (to both of us) :D

jeep108
04-27-2005, 11:30 AM
They also pressurize your fuel system at your gas tank and make sure you dont have any leaks.I always buy a new gas cap before I go because ive been failed for that before.

AZJeeps TJ&XJ
04-27-2005, 03:56 PM
As I've been told, they do a visual inspection first and if that fails they don't even bother with the sniff/dyno test. Supposedly the testers are not mechanic quality individuals and literally "go by the book". Hence, if your engine is missing components or vacuum lines aren't attached the way the diagrams indicate, you fail. Granted, these folks may not follow all the lines and simply check the attachments at the carb, or in my case the aftermarket Howell EFI and the charcoal canister.

If you make it appear all your components and lines are attached properly, you should be OK, then just pass the sniff test. They also verify you have a catalytic converter installed so that's another piece you'll have to replace if you've redone your exhaust without one.

Good luck (to both of us) :D

You got most of it...
If a vehicle is coming from another state, it first has to go to the DMV for a visual, this one is to verify that the VIN matches the title and plates. This inspection is for title purpose only.

Next to get registered you have to do the sniff check. Most of the newer (1997+) vehicles have the OBDII, so the emmisions guys can just plug in and see if there is any codes, no codes means the emmisions is within standard. I can't remember if they do a idle check or not, but I don't beleive the dyno is required. After the sniff check they do a pressure check, make sure the gas cap is good and you don't have any leaks for fuel vapor. Then come the visual for emmision componants, this includes the vacuum lines, canister, catalytic converters and sometimes airtubes (depends on the person and if they wanna be a dick).

Now for some tips: to get a lower reading on the sniff check, make sure your air pump is is in working order and the air tubes are plumbed in. This can cut your reading by 35% or so, nothing like pumping in fresh air. If you put on a new cat, drive around for at least 100 miles, most say 50, but it needs to get hot to burn all the additional crap that is in it. As for the aftermarket carb and such, just make sure it looks stock. Hook up as many of the vacuum lines you can, even if you have too run them in a circle, but make sure they look like they are doing something, even if the item they are connected to does nothing now.

I have had more than I would like to have experinces at the smog stations, but I have been able to beat them almost everytime. The one time they beat me was because the @$$ doing the component check didn't like where I had a "T" on the PVC valve, the diagram showed a 2-out PVC valve and I used a 1-out and spliced in a "T" about 3" from the PVC. So needless to say I had to use the onetime waiver. But I have been able to get a FSJ with a 350 in it to pass, and my blazer with a Edlebrock performer carb on it to pass which is not smog approved and is missing half of the vacuum lines ;)

kjstinga
04-27-2005, 09:18 PM
I had the most problems the first time when coming in from out of state. They run it on the dyno first... cruising and idle. Once you are done there they do the visual. The first time they went through it with a fine tooth comb, pulling out the book and tracing every vaccum line, checking EGR, PCV, and all emission equipment for that year. I had an arguement with them over the fact that they believed it should have a cat on it; but it didn't from the factory for that year. Perhaps that is what got them hunting for something. It passed the dyno with flying colors but they found some vaccum lines out of place to fail it on.

Since then it has had a much easier time getting through the visual. Like folks have said... make it look as stock as possible with all the lines even if you have them blocked with BBs in them. They don't care if any guages work, including odometer. If you are geared real low, you may want to warn them to take it easy as they almost drove mine off the dyno by jumping in and punching it.

This is with my 75 Scout.

k7mto
04-27-2005, 10:51 PM
My CJ has the Howell EFI kit on it so I'm more concerned with the visual than the sniff test. It's got the Howell underhood schematic sticker they can (must) use as a guide, so I'm hoping they aren't completely ignorant and try to match it up with their factory schematics. If they use the Howell schematic it should pass just fine.

If they plan on getting up to 35 mph, they'd better start in 2nd and shift up to 4th. I'll go ballistic if they over rev it trying to reach 35 in 2nd or 3rd! Maybe I'll just tell them it's a 3 spd to prevent them from trying to use the granny low.

AZJeeps TJ&XJ
04-28-2005, 12:04 AM
I had the most problems the first time when coming in from out of state. They run it on the dyno first... cruising and idle. Once you are done there they do the visual. The first time they went through it with a fine tooth comb, pulling out the book and tracing every vaccum line, checking EGR, PCV, and all emission equipment for that year. I had an arguement with them over the fact that they believed it should have a cat on it; but it didn't from the factory for that year. Perhaps that is what got them hunting for something. It passed the dyno with flying colors but they found some vaccum lines out of place to fail it on.

Since then it has had a much easier time getting through the visual. Like folks have said... make it look as stock as possible with all the lines even if you have them blocked with BBs in them. They don't care if any guages work, including odometer. If you are geared real low, you may want to warn them to take it easy as they almost drove mine off the dyno by jumping in and punching it.

This is with my 75 Scout.

It seems that the past 4 years they have lightened up A LOT on the visual. But they have gotten harsher on the sniff. Last time I took the XJ down all they did was open the hood so they clamp the evap hose.

Funny you mentioned them trying to drive it off the dyno.... On my FSJ cherokee I had the quadra-junk, which is full time, and they tried to run it on the dyno, I don't know why but the two times I took it down I stopped them when they put it in gear. I should have let them try it and watch it take off and plow the car in front. :rolleyes:

jeep108
04-28-2005, 12:16 AM
They drive mine off the rollers every time,I tell them to use their tie downs but they dont listen. I have an 84 cj7 with a 454 and 1000 cfm accel injection and they never give me any trouble even without cats on it.

Timmy.o.tool
04-28-2005, 08:21 AM
Maybe I will fab up an inspection air cleaner then when it comes to it just to make it look factory again. Thanks for your help...!

DrunkenKyle
04-28-2005, 06:45 PM
Im still trying to pass the damn emissions! I failed the sniff test and the vacuum line test....time to take it somewhere to pass...bleh

azdesertrhino
04-28-2005, 07:18 PM
This link from a while back tells my story of the last trip to the sniffer. :D Emissions test on my CJ (http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/showthread.php?t=7239&highlight=emissions+test) I've since sold the CJ.

rockwerks
04-28-2005, 07:37 PM
What is an emissions test??? (snicker) (giggle)..... :p I love northern AZ

Timmy.o.tool
04-28-2005, 07:45 PM
I cannot believe that they actually check vacuum diagrams and all that crap...

I never understood all that if you pass the sniff test who really cares what is under the hood...

Do they test motorcycles? maybe I won't sell it just so I have transportation if/when the wrangler fails :D