View Full Version : 60 rear to 60 front

Mad Machinist
12-18-2010, 11:22 AM
I was given a 60 rear and really have no use for it. So I figured I'll turn it into a front for my K10.

I know there are some chevy 60's out there, but everyone I have looked at has been beat to hell and they still want a $1000 plus for it. Then rebuild cost makes it really expensive. I figure the way I'm going will save me some coin.

The plan is to cut the housing down to where i need it and weld the tube on the other side to get what I need. Then add Dedenbear inner C's and steering knuckles.

Since a guy over on Pirate come out with a kit to fit a D70 ring and pinion into a D60 housing, that will go in as well.

Throw in a set of 300M front axles and I should have something that will stand up to the 500 horse 383 going in my truck.

Anybody have any thing to add?

12-18-2010, 11:24 AM
Call Andrew at Letzroll, he is the expert on axles. Period. Built mine and many others on here. 480-797-0469

12-18-2010, 12:16 PM
You will need to add axle seals also since front 60's have them just outside the carrier and your rear doesnt.

Mad Machinist
12-18-2010, 04:01 PM
Thnnks for reminding me about the seals. Forgot all about then.

12-18-2010, 05:22 PM
Sounds like a great plan to me!

12-18-2010, 07:34 PM
Cool project!

So you're going to take some of the material from one side and go to the other? What's the plan on how to do the tube splice? Do you splice it over an inner sleeve? Do you have (or will you build) a fixture?

12-18-2010, 08:09 PM
Let me know if you need any help / advise / parts. I have a tripped o-ring outer seal / double inner seal that would work fine.

I have built a few like this :)

12-18-2010, 09:16 PM
Anybody have any thing to add?

Pictures :smiley2:

12-19-2010, 06:24 AM
I would use a set up bar when doing the tubes and the c's they hold things perfectly straight. Good luck on the project, looking forward to the pics.

12-19-2010, 06:30 AM
Actully I do have something to add.... If your doing all this work and spending all this $$$ converting a rear D60 to a front axle... Screw the D60 and do a 14b front axle. Your talking about putting bomb proof knuckles and bullet proof shafts in why run a dinky R+P :)

Serious look at a D60 R+P vs. a 14b or even a ford 9''

The biggest gain you get when doing a front D60 (built for a front application) is you get all the Crap that goes with it like:
- C's (inner C's are traditionally fine and there are little tricks to make them strong)
- knuckles (Fords suck but CHevys are OK. Yes a good upgrade but not needed right away)
- Spindles, bearings, KP parts. All these can add up to a lot
- Hubs. Again these are fine in factory forum and expensive.

Lets put it this way a complete front end kit using all Brand New parts is about $1500 and thats just spindle out. So you add inner and outer knuckles and your at $800-1000
(Yes you can pick up some parts used)

So the starter axle went from $1000 (junk yard) to: $2500
This is a great upgrade but do a 14b or 9'' and ditch the D60 :)

I guess I have a lot to add.... But hey I build axles so get to quote them all day long to people.

12-19-2010, 06:33 AM
I would use a set up bar when doing the tubes and the c's they hold things perfectly straight. Good luck on the project, looking forward to the pics.

Yout Cannot and dont need to use a Alignment bar when doing a front axle. Thouhg you do want to use a Jig but thats all done external on a table usually.

You use the alignment bar when doing a rear only. Thats also used to bring a axle back in line when you are doing truss work etc.

Mad Machinist
12-19-2010, 12:30 PM
The alignment bar is easy to do. All you need is a straight piece of stock and a few pucks machinied to fit the carrier bearings and the outside of the tube. But like Andrew said it really isn't necessary for the front end.

The plan is to use a D70 ring gear in the 60 housing. Like here.http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=914583&highlight=jana+76
I've thought about doing a high 9 in the front but at $2000 for just the third member, it isn't worth it to me. The 14 bolt is a very interesting combo, but adds weight to an already heavy front end. Though it is still in the thought process. I would love to find an Eaton and do it, but gear selection is extremey limited.

The 60 rear was free, so that is the reasoning behind using it. And it can be built to use standard axles. Hopefully saving some coin. And if the stock inner C's can be mad stronger that is even better since I see them quite often on Ebay for $100 a pair.

The plan to lengthen to other side was to put a splice tube inside and weld it solid. I have no fear of it breaking since I certified as a welder too many years ago. Finally left my "R" stamp (pressure vessels) go this year as the company I work for wasn't willing to pay me anymore to keep it

12-19-2010, 12:43 PM
Yes that jantz guy is great for our sport and has amazing ideas! That d70 upgrade is a good idea. Still can't beat the 3rd pinion bearings though.

Also can't blame you for not wanting to drop the coin on a hp 9 3rd member I actually prefer using lp 9s both for price and avlb of parts.

Sounds like you have a plan so get to work and start with the pics.

Keep in mind your going after market shafts so build the axle with your needed widths. Custom shafts are easy to get any place now adays

Mad Machinist
12-19-2010, 04:27 PM
Will most likely start after the first of the year. I'm kinda winding down for a Christmas break in Las Vegas. Still have to do some research on using Ford knuckles so I can use the cheaper and easier to find Dana 50 parts.

Mad Machinist
12-19-2010, 05:30 PM
Wife gave the ok to run 44's if I want, so a 14 bolt might be in the works. Andrew, what do you think about a 14 bolt front filled with 40 spline?

12-19-2010, 06:28 PM

post a picture of your truck.