blooddrive
01-07-2004, 09:33 PM
75300-75324
75300 From: Bill - Jeeps Only <bill@j...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:08pm
Subject: Anyone have a popup tent trailer I could rent?
We're getting ready for a trip the first weekend in March to the 41st annual Tierra del Sol Desert Safari near Truckhaven Hills, California (south of Palm Springs). I'm looking to upgrade our accomodations from a tent to something that's off the ground. Does anyone on the group have a popup tent trailer they'd be willing to rent me that I could pull behind my Jeep? We're non-smokers and would park it on smooth ground near base camp. I just need something that would fit me, my wife and our 6 year old son from Friday February 28 through Sunday March 2 (3 days) and we'd be sure to return it clean.
I'm working on an idea of making a modular tent insert for my M416 trailer but realistically will not have enough time to finish it for the trip.
Oh and the mileage would be about 700 miles round trip.
Just a reminder, we're interested in riding out with anyone else on the group that wants to come along. For more info, visit the trip page at http://www.azvjc.org/Trips/View.asp?T=680
Thanks,
Bill
---------------
Bill Hooven
Jeeps Only
http://www.jeepsonly.com
A Yahoo-style directory of Jeep links
---------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
75301 From: Brandon <jeepinaz@c...> <jeepinaz@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:03pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Trip Report - FR-42 - Saturday, January 11, 2003
I have a ton of pictures from this run. If you were on the run and
want them just e-mail me jeepinaz@c... , with your info and I'll
burn them onto a CD and snail mail them to you.
Brandon
The stock Green YJ
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...> wrote:
>
75302 From: Sandee McCullen <mccullen@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 3:55pm
Subject: REMINDER February Delegate Meeting
REMINDER.............. PLEASE SEND TO YOUR LIST AND/OR GET INFORMATION TO
YOUR CLUB AND/OR INTERESTED PARTIES.
> > Region Directors,
> > Sandee McCullen, Reg. 1
> > Phil Strittmatter, Reg. 2
> > Frank Noel, Reg 3
> > Rheal Tetreault, Reg 4
> >
> > Phil Strittmatter, ASA4WDC Region 2 Director and a member of
> the Bullhead
> > 4-Wheelers, asked I pass this information on to you.......... it's
> suppose
> > to be posted in the Wheeldust due out any day but with travel plans and
> all
> > Bullhead 4-Wheelers were concerned about reservations etc........
> >
> > They would also like some feed back on those that wish to do trail rides
> and
> > if so,........ what level. Please RSVP for a head count and
> trail rides
> > please. Sandee at "mccullen@w..." or Phil at "fourby@c...
> >
> > Please pass this information on to your mail list or your club delegate.
> > There are a number of clubs we haven't seen lately.............. There
> will
> > be a number of important issues at this meeting and we need our clubs to
> > "join in" and take control of THEIR organization.
> >
> > This meeting will be addressing the "appeal" re Jawbreaker and
> the letter
> > campaign. The newly appointed "communication committee" will submit a
> > proposal re "how's and can's" of a speedy communication network between
> > ASA4WDC members as well as OHV organizations. The newly
> appointed Land Use
> > Committee will also submit a plan, working with the Political Actions
> Chair
> > for updated and current land access and political issues facing us all.
> >
> > Hopefully we will have some proposals for "membership" to enable us to
> draw
> > our fellow OHV recreationists within our numbers. Please remember YOUR
> > voice counts and YOUR ideas or suggestions count!! Stand up
> and be heard!
> >
> > Actually it might be fun to have a "faces vs names" contest............
> too
> > many of you have been gone from the scene for too long!!! It would be
> great
> > to have 100% club representation once again.
> >
> > Any questions............... contact Phil.
> >
> > ASA4WDC Delegate Meeting
> > 1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.
> > Saturday, February 15, 2003
> > Riverside Casino, Laughlin NV
> >
> > Riverside Casino
> > 800.227.3849
> >
> > Edge Water Casino
> > 800.677.4837
> >
> > River Palms Casino
> > 800.835.7904
> >
> > Harrahs
> > 800.477.8700
> >
> > Ramada
> > 800.243.6846
> >
> > Flamingo
> > 800.352.6464
> >
> > Colorado Belle
> > 877.460.0777
> >
> > Davis Camp (County Park with RV hookups or dry camping next to the
> Colorado
> > River
> > 877.757.0915 or 928.754.7250
> >
> > Katherine Landing
> > 928.754.3245
> >
> > River City RV Park
> > 928.754.2121
> >
> > Trail Rides planned for Friday Sunday and Monday......... (Presidents
> > Weekend) PLEASE RSVP.
> >
>
75303 From: Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...> <gev39@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:08pm
Subject: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
you really want them to go under a load.
Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
joints.
I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
Important notes :
1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
off the axle housing. Very ugly.
2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
**** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
Russell Gevarter
2Gnarly
Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75304 From: CoyotEddie <coyoteddie@e...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:15pm
Subject: Re: Another Easy Question
After testing my rig without the sway bar connected, I pulled mine on my CJ5 many years ago
----- Original Message -----
From: Stu Olson
To: 'Joe Kearney' ; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] Another Easy Question
Joe,
I believe it is quite common for leaf spring owners to pull the sway
bars (so I have been told). Not having them on a TJ is really scary,
IMO.
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Kearney [mailto:Joe-CJ7@jrkearney.com]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:40 PM
To: andrew.j.thomas@cox.net; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com; Stu Olson
Subject: [az_vjc] Another Easy Question
I have had my Sway Bars disconnected for a week and have not noticed any
difference on the road driving. I even had to hit the brakes and go
into
the next lane very fast.
What are the bad points of driving like this? Will it hurt the Jeep?
85 CJ 7
Joe Kearney
Joe-CJ7@JRKearney.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@qwest.net>
To: <andrew.j.thomas@cox.net>; <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:26 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] Easy Question - Removing Sway Bars on '97 TJ
> Andy,
>
> The sway bar has a tapered hole where the factory links connect, so
when
> removing them, you will find mostly the same hassle as removing a tie
> rod end. If you can put a puller on it, that should make it much
> easier.
>
> Stu
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: run_andy74cj5 <andrew.j.thomas@cox.net>
> [mailto:andrew.j.thomas@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:38 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] Easy Question - Removing Sway Bars on '97 TJ
>
>
> Just bought some Quicker Disconnects (JKS) the other day - and I
> wanted to put them on my '97 TJ. Disconnecting the original sway
> bar end (bottom part) is easy enough - but are there any tricks to
> getting the top part of the sway bar end off?
>
> Any advice is appreciated!
> Andy Thomas
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75305 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:26pm
Subject: RE: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Russell,
Very good comments, indeed!
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...> [mailto:gev39@y...]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 5:08 PM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer
wheelers
Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
you really want them to go under a load.
Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
joints.
I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
Important notes :
1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
off the axle housing. Very ugly.
2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
**** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
Russell Gevarter
2Gnarly
Blue YJ Renegade SOA
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75306 From: FredTJ <fredtj@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:50pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Russell, excellent !!
One other point, use caution backing out of a jamb. For whatever reason the
u-joints seem to go more often backing up than when going forward. I friend,
down here in Tucson, who runs, or did, the ARCA events, flinches everytime
he sees someone backup when "in the rocks" ..
Addtional comments:
1- Seen that before, very ugly ;)
2 - Seen that before also ..
Cheers,
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: <gev39@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 5:08 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
> Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
> exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
> you really want them to go under a load.
> Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
> breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> joints.
> I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
> steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
> is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
> at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
> than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
>
> Important notes :
> 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
> least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
> push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> off the axle housing. Very ugly.
>
> 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
>
> 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
> 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
> oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
>
> Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
> rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> Russell Gevarter
> 2Gnarly
> Blue YJ Renegade SOA
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
75307 From: Chris Richardson <tcr11087@y...> <tcr11087@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:00pm
Subject: FS(want to buy yj soft top frame
I want to change from a hardtop to a soft top. I am looking to
buy a complete frame but parts from several sources could work too.
What do you have? I will also want a soft top and doors,prefer black
or grey.
Chris Richardson
520-400-5464
75308 From: Dan Coley <crawlintj@y...> <crawlintj@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:03pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
You can definately have the u-joint stressed by...say...having the
entire weight of the vehicle on the right front, while you are being
winched laterally and forward at the same time...right Russ? :)
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...>"
<gev39@y...> wrote:
> Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
> exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
> you really want them to go under a load.
> Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
> breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> joints.
> I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
> steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
> is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
> at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
> than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
>
> Important notes :
> 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
> least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and
will
> push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> off the axle housing. Very ugly.
>
> 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
>
> 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
> 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
> oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
>
> Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
> rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> Russell Gevarter
> 2Gnarly
> Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75309 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:08pm
Subject: [FS] WANTED (stering column for 90 yj) standard transmission
Price: REASONABLE
Contact: 602-579-5132
NEED A STERING COLUMN FOR 1990 YJ WRANGLER,IF YOU CAN HELP PLEASE CALL 602-579-5132 ASK FOR BRUCE THANK YOU!
Bruce Boc
75310 From: Reid Scholes <azturf@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:12pm
Subject: brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
75311 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:38pm
Subject: Re: [FS] Wanted: TJ Soundbar help
Id go to circuit city, get some 6"
replacement speakers and an amp... make sure you get the 4 year extended warantee. Also, you can replace the dash speakers which are 4x6" speakers... Stick with infinity, polk, or rockford fosgates.... if you want more details or help feel free to e-mail me.
There are a couple more reasonable options.
Nick Gasmena
----- Original Message -----
From: AzVJC Website
To: AzVJC
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 7:46 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] [FS] Wanted: TJ Soundbar help
Price:
Contact: dakengott@qwest.net or call 480-961-3909
The sound from my TJ soundbar can barely be heard over the road noise when driving down the highway. Is there a way to relocate the factor soundbar in a 98 TJ so it sits over the front seats instead of behind them? Has anyone done this? It looks like this could be done with some modification to the mounting brackets but then I would need an extension for the speaker wires and dome light which I have no idea where to purchase.
Or is there an aftermarket soundbar I can puchase that is designed for this purpose?
Dave Kengott
Dave Kengott
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75312 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:45pm
Subject: Re: 4.5 RE LA Shock ???? -Everyone has an RTI Ramp
Id say those shocks would be alright... I personally HATE the old man emu
shocks that come with the complete 5.5 long arm kit. If you need a quick
ramp to check for binding.. I go to my local fry's grocery store... go to
the back to the loading bays, put your driverside tire on the lip of the
ramp, and theres your 23 degree RTI ramp :) People get a kick out of it
too... so if there are ppl around be sure you have some time for spectators
:)
Nick Gasmena
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>
To: <coxy8@y...>; <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:35 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] 4.5 RE LA Shock ????
> Jeff,
>
> Until you determine otherwise, I would go with the shocks you have.
> They should be pretty close. After doing a major suspension change, I
> always try to do a shakedown run where I can flex things out nice and
> easy and check for binding, etc. Doesn't have to be a challenging run,
> just one with some places to flex the coils and see how it all works.
> You should be able to determine if your shocks are limiting your droop
> by flexing out a tire and then checking the spring to see if it is still
> quite tight in the bucket.
>
> Stu
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coxy8 <coxy8@y...> [mailto:coxy8@y...]
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:32 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] 4.5 RE LA Shock ????
>
> I currently have the RE 4.5 Superflex kit. I am upgrading to the RE
> LA kit this weekend. I am keeping my 4.5 coils and getting 35 MTR's.
> I have the MM and BL installed...almost (thanks John Halverson...ha
> ha). My question is will I need to change shocks or will the ones
> that I have on now with my kit work. I know to really find
> the "right" length I would have to ramp it but that probably isn't
> going to happen(no ramp)
> so what do you think? Any help is appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Cox
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
75313 From: Scott Maiden <bermboy@h...> <bermboy@h...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:51pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Not when you wont turn the engine on;P Now how did you get in that
situation anyway?????? LOL
"Just turn left and go forward.... trust me:)"
Scott Maiden
Oh yeah, good points Russ.
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Coley <crawlintj@y...>"
<crawlintj@y...> wrote:
> You can definately have the u-joint stressed by...say...having the
> entire weight of the vehicle on the right front, while you are
being
> winched laterally and forward at the same time...right Russ? :)
>
>
>
>
> --- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...>"
> <gev39@y...> wrote:
> > Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint
decreases
> > exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> > situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther
that
> > you really want them to go under a load.
> > Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles
from
> > breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> > joints.
> > I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> > the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at
full
> > steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> > most strength and making it much harder to break them. The
downside
> > is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I
look
> > at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY
better
> > than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
> >
> > Important notes :
> > 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without
at
> > least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and
> will
> > push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> > off the axle housing. Very ugly.
> >
> > 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> > installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> > vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
> >
> > 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> > Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> > the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-
point
> > 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> > shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep
the
> > oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
> >
> > Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> > Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> > **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in
their
> > rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> > this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> > Russell Gevarter
> > 2Gnarly
> > Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75314 From: Steve Meyer <steve.j.meyer@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:59pm
Subject: RE: 37" tires
I here that they even measure a bit taller than 38" swampers.
--Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Kruize [mailto:skruize@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 10:27 PM
To: 'Halverson'; 'AzVJC Website'
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] 37" tires
John,
My MTR's measure about 36" when the weight of the Jeep is on them at 24 PSI. Off the Jeep aired up they measure 37". They squat down about 1" when I air them down to 8 PSI.
Scott K
-----Original Message-----
From: Halverson [mailto:byrnec@qwest.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 9:21 PM
To: AzVJC Website
Subject: [az_vjc] 37" tires
Hi all,
I am beginning to shop the 37's for my new jeep build up.
Would you guys running 37's please measure the actual height of your tires? I am trying to figure out which brands are what height and so on.
Thank you,
John
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75315 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:54pm
Subject: Re: Re: Preventive maintenence suggestions....
Seems to me that if you tac weld your caps on, you risk frying up the greese
in the cap, and could affect the function of the barrings and greese being
in the cap in the first place.
I drove to new mexico for christmas and new years when the 40 was closed...
Yes I drove when the fwy was closed... and NO it wasnt fun... I was in 4wd
the whole way from flag to winslow, which is where i turned off and stayed
at a friends house because the road conditions were so nasty... On my way
to Happy Jack where I was staying, about 40 miles South of the 40, on the
87...
I had earlier noticed a cap coming off on my passenger side, and I didnt
have a clip to replace the missing one... I found someone with a welder,
took a thin strip of metal, and tac welded a bracket from one side of the
ear, to the other, retaining the cap... I was in 4wd the whole next day, and
some places on the way back going 30-50 mph and it is still holding to this
day... Ill take a picture if anyone is interested.... There is no problem
with clearance from the calliper or hub bolts.
Anyone interested in pictures?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Tomas" <tomasr@agcs.com>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Re: Preventive maintenence suggestions....
> The people making those suggestions have all experienced some
> problem and had to resolve it. I think their suggestions really
> represent solutions to problems - not preventive maintenance.
> In my opinion, the real solution would be to replace the axle
> shafts.
>
> Note that I have never had an issue with u-joint caps rotating
> or working themselves out so I find it strange that some are
> reporting that they have this problem constantly. Maybe I drive
> with a lighter foot - I don't know. But I do know the people
> making those other suggestions well enough to know that I run
> trails just as difficult as them.
>
> If you are still concerned about your u-joints, then go ahead
> and replace them. If you are also worried about the caps working
> themselves loose, do the paint trick to monitor it. Then, if
> you determine you really do have a problem, go ahead and do the
> welding trick. However, if you are worried enough about your
> u-joints that you think you should change them routinely, then
> I would think you'd want to replace your shafts should you
> determine the caps are not staying in place.
>
> Also, remember that if you do the welding, then you will have to
> do some grinding and re-welding the next time you want to change
> the joints. I suspect repeated welding may weaken the axle shafts
> over time (I think - I'm not an expert on that).
>
> This is all just my opinion.
>
> -Roger
>
> Michael Beckham wrote:
> >
> > If you are reading the other posts about this, there are many
> > other
> > suggestions. I've had my TJ since new in 2000, and think I will
> > replace the
> > front U-joints this spring (spring cleaning?, might mean
> > something else to
> > you non-coil guys) and then do the weld over washer trick, as it
> > makes the
> > most since to me...
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Attachment: (image/jpeg) DCP_0007.JPG [not stored]
75316 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:02pm
Subject: [FS] Need power-steering pump & resivior
Price: cheap
Contact: 480-343-1443
I need a power-steering pump and resivior for a 91 jeep with the 4.0 motor. Mine had manual steering and i mounted a ps box in it. That fixed alot of the play in the wheel but that thing sure is hard to turn esp with 33's on it! I think the resivior is seperate from the pump on this one but not sure.
Eric Taylor
75317 From: The Acuna Family <mkacuna@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:06pm
Subject: Re: brake lights (YJ)
The turn signals and the brake lights share the same filament in the bulb, so if your turn signals are working, the lts are ok. It sounds like your not getting a signal from the brake switch.......check power at both wires on the switch. There should be power getting to the switch, the depress the button on the switch, and there should be power going out on the other wire.
I hope this helps,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Scholes
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75318 From: Reid Scholes <azturf@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:19pm
Subject: Re: brake lights (YJ)
Mike,
The switch works fine - the bottom terminal has power and the top terminal has power when the brake is applied. I'm going to check the turn signal switch to see if I can find a problem there. Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: The Acuna Family
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com ; Reid Scholes
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
The turn signals and the brake lights share the same filament in the bulb, so if your turn signals are working, the lts are ok. It sounds like your not getting a signal from the brake switch.......check power at both wires on the switch. There should be power getting to the switch, the depress the button on the switch, and there should be power going out on the other wire.
I hope this helps,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Scholes
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75319 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:26pm
Subject: [FS] Wanted
Price: ?
Contact: Craig Whittington 602-696-1892
Steering Column for 1990 YJ with Automatic tranny shifter on column
Craig Whittington
75320 From: Wade <swaders7@y...> <swaders7@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:00pm
Subject: websites
Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
~Wade
'97 "Not a smurf" TJ
75321 From: TODD MCCULLEN <desertfab@m...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:29pm
Subject: AMC 904
I have one here at the shop rebuilt with torque converter ready to go.
Todd
www.desertfab.com
480-980-2681
480-288-4213
75322 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:30pm
Subject: RE: websites
Wade,
If I decided to have someone else administer my site, I'm not sure just
how that would work. The bulk of site is write-ups from projects and
mods I have done, trip reports, and a few other selected items.
Obviously, having someone else do a through write-up would be a
challenge unless they were there and participated in the project (and
then I am not certain I would like them doing the write-up!) LOL
So....I could write it up myself, but then I have already spent about
80% of the time needed for the finished product (toss in some pictures,
grab the page template, apply formatting, and FTP to the web site).
I may have missed the point here. Not sure. What is your take on it?
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wade <swaders7@y...> [mailto:swaders7@y...]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 8:00 PM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] websites
Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
~Wade
'97 "Not a smurf" TJ
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75323 From: DesertJeep <joey@d...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:32pm
Subject: RE: [Tech] 2000 tj - twisted driveline???
So where is it twisted?
I think a common mistake jeep owners make is to throw on a decent lift then big tires. The 4.0 is a respectable motor. Expecting the rest of the drive train to hold up after putting big tires on is a common misconception.
The second thing is after a lift neglecting the drive shaft angles. This could be a major cause of snapping U-joints left and right.
Joey K
93YJ
-----Original Message-----
From: AzVJC Website [mailto:azvjc@azvjc.org]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:47 PM
To: AzVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] [Tech] 2000 tj - twisted driveline???
can someone help me??? I have a 2000 tj, real close to stock, and i've already twisted, and snapped two front drivelines! i know what you are going to say...keep your foot off the floor!!, but thats not it. both times they have snapped, i was at the top of my hill with little acceleration, turning the wheel back and forth for some front end traction. then snap!!! bring out the winch!! Anyone else with this problem?? help me out please.
James Hunt
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75324 From: Chris Krieg <rv6a@m...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:46pm
Subject: Re: websites
I write my own site using Dreamweaver MX and it is stored on my Cox
webspace. I got my domain name through needa.com.
Chris
http://www.arizonatj.com
On Monday, January 13, 2003, at 08:00 PM, Wade <swaders7@y...>
wrote:
> Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
> websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
> would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
> I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
> resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
>
> ~Wade
> '97 "Not a smurf" TJ
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
75300 From: Bill - Jeeps Only <bill@j...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:08pm
Subject: Anyone have a popup tent trailer I could rent?
We're getting ready for a trip the first weekend in March to the 41st annual Tierra del Sol Desert Safari near Truckhaven Hills, California (south of Palm Springs). I'm looking to upgrade our accomodations from a tent to something that's off the ground. Does anyone on the group have a popup tent trailer they'd be willing to rent me that I could pull behind my Jeep? We're non-smokers and would park it on smooth ground near base camp. I just need something that would fit me, my wife and our 6 year old son from Friday February 28 through Sunday March 2 (3 days) and we'd be sure to return it clean.
I'm working on an idea of making a modular tent insert for my M416 trailer but realistically will not have enough time to finish it for the trip.
Oh and the mileage would be about 700 miles round trip.
Just a reminder, we're interested in riding out with anyone else on the group that wants to come along. For more info, visit the trip page at http://www.azvjc.org/Trips/View.asp?T=680
Thanks,
Bill
---------------
Bill Hooven
Jeeps Only
http://www.jeepsonly.com
A Yahoo-style directory of Jeep links
---------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
75301 From: Brandon <jeepinaz@c...> <jeepinaz@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:03pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Trip Report - FR-42 - Saturday, January 11, 2003
I have a ton of pictures from this run. If you were on the run and
want them just e-mail me jeepinaz@c... , with your info and I'll
burn them onto a CD and snail mail them to you.
Brandon
The stock Green YJ
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...> wrote:
>
75302 From: Sandee McCullen <mccullen@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 3:55pm
Subject: REMINDER February Delegate Meeting
REMINDER.............. PLEASE SEND TO YOUR LIST AND/OR GET INFORMATION TO
YOUR CLUB AND/OR INTERESTED PARTIES.
> > Region Directors,
> > Sandee McCullen, Reg. 1
> > Phil Strittmatter, Reg. 2
> > Frank Noel, Reg 3
> > Rheal Tetreault, Reg 4
> >
> > Phil Strittmatter, ASA4WDC Region 2 Director and a member of
> the Bullhead
> > 4-Wheelers, asked I pass this information on to you.......... it's
> suppose
> > to be posted in the Wheeldust due out any day but with travel plans and
> all
> > Bullhead 4-Wheelers were concerned about reservations etc........
> >
> > They would also like some feed back on those that wish to do trail rides
> and
> > if so,........ what level. Please RSVP for a head count and
> trail rides
> > please. Sandee at "mccullen@w..." or Phil at "fourby@c...
> >
> > Please pass this information on to your mail list or your club delegate.
> > There are a number of clubs we haven't seen lately.............. There
> will
> > be a number of important issues at this meeting and we need our clubs to
> > "join in" and take control of THEIR organization.
> >
> > This meeting will be addressing the "appeal" re Jawbreaker and
> the letter
> > campaign. The newly appointed "communication committee" will submit a
> > proposal re "how's and can's" of a speedy communication network between
> > ASA4WDC members as well as OHV organizations. The newly
> appointed Land Use
> > Committee will also submit a plan, working with the Political Actions
> Chair
> > for updated and current land access and political issues facing us all.
> >
> > Hopefully we will have some proposals for "membership" to enable us to
> draw
> > our fellow OHV recreationists within our numbers. Please remember YOUR
> > voice counts and YOUR ideas or suggestions count!! Stand up
> and be heard!
> >
> > Actually it might be fun to have a "faces vs names" contest............
> too
> > many of you have been gone from the scene for too long!!! It would be
> great
> > to have 100% club representation once again.
> >
> > Any questions............... contact Phil.
> >
> > ASA4WDC Delegate Meeting
> > 1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m.
> > Saturday, February 15, 2003
> > Riverside Casino, Laughlin NV
> >
> > Riverside Casino
> > 800.227.3849
> >
> > Edge Water Casino
> > 800.677.4837
> >
> > River Palms Casino
> > 800.835.7904
> >
> > Harrahs
> > 800.477.8700
> >
> > Ramada
> > 800.243.6846
> >
> > Flamingo
> > 800.352.6464
> >
> > Colorado Belle
> > 877.460.0777
> >
> > Davis Camp (County Park with RV hookups or dry camping next to the
> Colorado
> > River
> > 877.757.0915 or 928.754.7250
> >
> > Katherine Landing
> > 928.754.3245
> >
> > River City RV Park
> > 928.754.2121
> >
> > Trail Rides planned for Friday Sunday and Monday......... (Presidents
> > Weekend) PLEASE RSVP.
> >
>
75303 From: Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...> <gev39@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:08pm
Subject: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
you really want them to go under a load.
Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
joints.
I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
Important notes :
1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
off the axle housing. Very ugly.
2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
**** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
Russell Gevarter
2Gnarly
Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75304 From: CoyotEddie <coyoteddie@e...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:15pm
Subject: Re: Another Easy Question
After testing my rig without the sway bar connected, I pulled mine on my CJ5 many years ago
----- Original Message -----
From: Stu Olson
To: 'Joe Kearney' ; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:47 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] Another Easy Question
Joe,
I believe it is quite common for leaf spring owners to pull the sway
bars (so I have been told). Not having them on a TJ is really scary,
IMO.
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Kearney [mailto:Joe-CJ7@jrkearney.com]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:40 PM
To: andrew.j.thomas@cox.net; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com; Stu Olson
Subject: [az_vjc] Another Easy Question
I have had my Sway Bars disconnected for a week and have not noticed any
difference on the road driving. I even had to hit the brakes and go
into
the next lane very fast.
What are the bad points of driving like this? Will it hurt the Jeep?
85 CJ 7
Joe Kearney
Joe-CJ7@JRKearney.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@qwest.net>
To: <andrew.j.thomas@cox.net>; <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:26 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] Easy Question - Removing Sway Bars on '97 TJ
> Andy,
>
> The sway bar has a tapered hole where the factory links connect, so
when
> removing them, you will find mostly the same hassle as removing a tie
> rod end. If you can put a puller on it, that should make it much
> easier.
>
> Stu
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: run_andy74cj5 <andrew.j.thomas@cox.net>
> [mailto:andrew.j.thomas@cox.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 10:38 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] Easy Question - Removing Sway Bars on '97 TJ
>
>
> Just bought some Quicker Disconnects (JKS) the other day - and I
> wanted to put them on my '97 TJ. Disconnecting the original sway
> bar end (bottom part) is easy enough - but are there any tricks to
> getting the top part of the sway bar end off?
>
> Any advice is appreciated!
> Andy Thomas
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75305 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:26pm
Subject: RE: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Russell,
Very good comments, indeed!
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...> [mailto:gev39@y...]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 5:08 PM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer
wheelers
Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
you really want them to go under a load.
Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
joints.
I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
Important notes :
1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
off the axle housing. Very ugly.
2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
**** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
Russell Gevarter
2Gnarly
Blue YJ Renegade SOA
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75306 From: FredTJ <fredtj@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 4:50pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Russell, excellent !!
One other point, use caution backing out of a jamb. For whatever reason the
u-joints seem to go more often backing up than when going forward. I friend,
down here in Tucson, who runs, or did, the ARCA events, flinches everytime
he sees someone backup when "in the rocks" ..
Addtional comments:
1- Seen that before, very ugly ;)
2 - Seen that before also ..
Cheers,
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: <gev39@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 5:08 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
> Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
> exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
> you really want them to go under a load.
> Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
> breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> joints.
> I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
> steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
> is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
> at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
> than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
>
> Important notes :
> 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
> least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and will
> push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> off the axle housing. Very ugly.
>
> 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
>
> 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
> 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
> oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
>
> Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
> rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> Russell Gevarter
> 2Gnarly
> Blue YJ Renegade SOA
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
75307 From: Chris Richardson <tcr11087@y...> <tcr11087@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:00pm
Subject: FS(want to buy yj soft top frame
I want to change from a hardtop to a soft top. I am looking to
buy a complete frame but parts from several sources could work too.
What do you have? I will also want a soft top and doors,prefer black
or grey.
Chris Richardson
520-400-5464
75308 From: Dan Coley <crawlintj@y...> <crawlintj@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:03pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
You can definately have the u-joint stressed by...say...having the
entire weight of the vehicle on the right front, while you are being
winched laterally and forward at the same time...right Russ? :)
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...>"
<gev39@y...> wrote:
> Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint decreases
> exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther that
> you really want them to go under a load.
> Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles from
> breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> joints.
> I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at full
> steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> most strength and making it much harder to break them. The downside
> is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I look
> at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY better
> than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
>
> Important notes :
> 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without at
> least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and
will
> push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> off the axle housing. Very ugly.
>
> 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
>
> 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-point
> 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep the
> oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
>
> Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in their
> rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> Russell Gevarter
> 2Gnarly
> Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75309 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:08pm
Subject: [FS] WANTED (stering column for 90 yj) standard transmission
Price: REASONABLE
Contact: 602-579-5132
NEED A STERING COLUMN FOR 1990 YJ WRANGLER,IF YOU CAN HELP PLEASE CALL 602-579-5132 ASK FOR BRUCE THANK YOU!
Bruce Boc
75310 From: Reid Scholes <azturf@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:12pm
Subject: brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
75311 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:38pm
Subject: Re: [FS] Wanted: TJ Soundbar help
Id go to circuit city, get some 6"
replacement speakers and an amp... make sure you get the 4 year extended warantee. Also, you can replace the dash speakers which are 4x6" speakers... Stick with infinity, polk, or rockford fosgates.... if you want more details or help feel free to e-mail me.
There are a couple more reasonable options.
Nick Gasmena
----- Original Message -----
From: AzVJC Website
To: AzVJC
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 7:46 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] [FS] Wanted: TJ Soundbar help
Price:
Contact: dakengott@qwest.net or call 480-961-3909
The sound from my TJ soundbar can barely be heard over the road noise when driving down the highway. Is there a way to relocate the factor soundbar in a 98 TJ so it sits over the front seats instead of behind them? Has anyone done this? It looks like this could be done with some modification to the mounting brackets but then I would need an extension for the speaker wires and dome light which I have no idea where to purchase.
Or is there an aftermarket soundbar I can puchase that is designed for this purpose?
Dave Kengott
Dave Kengott
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75312 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:45pm
Subject: Re: 4.5 RE LA Shock ???? -Everyone has an RTI Ramp
Id say those shocks would be alright... I personally HATE the old man emu
shocks that come with the complete 5.5 long arm kit. If you need a quick
ramp to check for binding.. I go to my local fry's grocery store... go to
the back to the loading bays, put your driverside tire on the lip of the
ramp, and theres your 23 degree RTI ramp :) People get a kick out of it
too... so if there are ppl around be sure you have some time for spectators
:)
Nick Gasmena
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>
To: <coxy8@y...>; <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:35 PM
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] 4.5 RE LA Shock ????
> Jeff,
>
> Until you determine otherwise, I would go with the shocks you have.
> They should be pretty close. After doing a major suspension change, I
> always try to do a shakedown run where I can flex things out nice and
> easy and check for binding, etc. Doesn't have to be a challenging run,
> just one with some places to flex the coils and see how it all works.
> You should be able to determine if your shocks are limiting your droop
> by flexing out a tire and then checking the spring to see if it is still
> quite tight in the bucket.
>
> Stu
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Coxy8 <coxy8@y...> [mailto:coxy8@y...]
> Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 11:32 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] 4.5 RE LA Shock ????
>
> I currently have the RE 4.5 Superflex kit. I am upgrading to the RE
> LA kit this weekend. I am keeping my 4.5 coils and getting 35 MTR's.
> I have the MM and BL installed...almost (thanks John Halverson...ha
> ha). My question is will I need to change shocks or will the ones
> that I have on now with my kit work. I know to really find
> the "right" length I would have to ramp it but that probably isn't
> going to happen(no ramp)
> so what do you think? Any help is appreciated!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Cox
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
75313 From: Scott Maiden <bermboy@h...> <bermboy@h...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:51pm
Subject: Re: U-joint saving idea...and some advice for newer wheelers
Not when you wont turn the engine on;P Now how did you get in that
situation anyway?????? LOL
"Just turn left and go forward.... trust me:)"
Scott Maiden
Oh yeah, good points Russ.
--- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Coley <crawlintj@y...>"
<crawlintj@y...> wrote:
> You can definately have the u-joint stressed by...say...having the
> entire weight of the vehicle on the right front, while you are
being
> winched laterally and forward at the same time...right Russ? :)
>
>
>
>
> --- In az_vjc@yahoogroups.com, "Russell Gevarter <gev39@y...>"
> <gev39@y...> wrote:
> > Everyone will agree that the the strength of any u-joint
decreases
> > exponentially as the angle is increased. Sometimes you get in a
> > situation where the trail decides to steer your wheels farther
that
> > you really want them to go under a load.
> > Heres a simple trick I learned that will help keep your axles
from
> > breaking, especially if you're running oversize tires on stock u-
> > joints.
> > I removed my turn-stop bolts and added a nice thick washer behind
> > the jamb nut on each knuckle. This reduces the joint angle at
full
> > steer left or right, keeping them in the zone where they have the
> > most strength and making it much harder to break them. The
downside
> > is that my turning radius is decreased slightly, but the way I
look
> > at it, making an extra 3-point turn from time to time is WAY
better
> > than changing out axles and joints on the trail. Cheaper too.
> >
> > Important notes :
> > 1: NEVER continue driving with a broken axle or u-joint without
at
> > least pulling out the inner shaft...the yokes will bind up, and
> will
> > push your ball joints apart. The wheel, hub and knuckle will come
> > off the axle housing. Very ugly.
> >
> > 2: NEVER drive on a hub that does not have an outer axle stub
> > installed. The hub will come apart and your wheel will leave the
> > vehicle while in motion. Also very ugly.
> >
> > 3: Stuff breaks. There is no excuse for not being prepared.
> > Anyone who wheels in the desert should carry some spare parts and
> > the tools to fix it when it happens. At the very least, a 12-
point
> > 1/2" socket so you can remove the hub and pull out the inner axle
> > shaft. Also have a clean rag to stuff in the axle tube (to keep
the
> > oil in, and dirt out) while you drive home.
> >
> > Hopefully reading this will enlighten at least a few people.
> > Especially those who totally depend upon others to fix their
> > **** 'cause they haven't got a single tool or a spare part in
their
> > rig. I'm not ripping on any particular individual..but if you fit
> > this category, get a grip! To everyone else, sorry I rambled on.
> > Russell Gevarter
> > 2Gnarly
> > Blue YJ Renegade SOA
75314 From: Steve Meyer <steve.j.meyer@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:59pm
Subject: RE: 37" tires
I here that they even measure a bit taller than 38" swampers.
--Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Kruize [mailto:skruize@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 10:27 PM
To: 'Halverson'; 'AzVJC Website'
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] 37" tires
John,
My MTR's measure about 36" when the weight of the Jeep is on them at 24 PSI. Off the Jeep aired up they measure 37". They squat down about 1" when I air them down to 8 PSI.
Scott K
-----Original Message-----
From: Halverson [mailto:byrnec@qwest.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 9:21 PM
To: AzVJC Website
Subject: [az_vjc] 37" tires
Hi all,
I am beginning to shop the 37's for my new jeep build up.
Would you guys running 37's please measure the actual height of your tires? I am trying to figure out which brands are what height and so on.
Thank you,
John
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75315 From: Nick <NickG@4...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 5:54pm
Subject: Re: Re: Preventive maintenence suggestions....
Seems to me that if you tac weld your caps on, you risk frying up the greese
in the cap, and could affect the function of the barrings and greese being
in the cap in the first place.
I drove to new mexico for christmas and new years when the 40 was closed...
Yes I drove when the fwy was closed... and NO it wasnt fun... I was in 4wd
the whole way from flag to winslow, which is where i turned off and stayed
at a friends house because the road conditions were so nasty... On my way
to Happy Jack where I was staying, about 40 miles South of the 40, on the
87...
I had earlier noticed a cap coming off on my passenger side, and I didnt
have a clip to replace the missing one... I found someone with a welder,
took a thin strip of metal, and tac welded a bracket from one side of the
ear, to the other, retaining the cap... I was in 4wd the whole next day, and
some places on the way back going 30-50 mph and it is still holding to this
day... Ill take a picture if anyone is interested.... There is no problem
with clearance from the calliper or hub bolts.
Anyone interested in pictures?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Tomas" <tomasr@agcs.com>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Re: Preventive maintenence suggestions....
> The people making those suggestions have all experienced some
> problem and had to resolve it. I think their suggestions really
> represent solutions to problems - not preventive maintenance.
> In my opinion, the real solution would be to replace the axle
> shafts.
>
> Note that I have never had an issue with u-joint caps rotating
> or working themselves out so I find it strange that some are
> reporting that they have this problem constantly. Maybe I drive
> with a lighter foot - I don't know. But I do know the people
> making those other suggestions well enough to know that I run
> trails just as difficult as them.
>
> If you are still concerned about your u-joints, then go ahead
> and replace them. If you are also worried about the caps working
> themselves loose, do the paint trick to monitor it. Then, if
> you determine you really do have a problem, go ahead and do the
> welding trick. However, if you are worried enough about your
> u-joints that you think you should change them routinely, then
> I would think you'd want to replace your shafts should you
> determine the caps are not staying in place.
>
> Also, remember that if you do the welding, then you will have to
> do some grinding and re-welding the next time you want to change
> the joints. I suspect repeated welding may weaken the axle shafts
> over time (I think - I'm not an expert on that).
>
> This is all just my opinion.
>
> -Roger
>
> Michael Beckham wrote:
> >
> > If you are reading the other posts about this, there are many
> > other
> > suggestions. I've had my TJ since new in 2000, and think I will
> > replace the
> > front U-joints this spring (spring cleaning?, might mean
> > something else to
> > you non-coil guys) and then do the weld over washer trick, as it
> > makes the
> > most since to me...
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Attachment: (image/jpeg) DCP_0007.JPG [not stored]
75316 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:02pm
Subject: [FS] Need power-steering pump & resivior
Price: cheap
Contact: 480-343-1443
I need a power-steering pump and resivior for a 91 jeep with the 4.0 motor. Mine had manual steering and i mounted a ps box in it. That fixed alot of the play in the wheel but that thing sure is hard to turn esp with 33's on it! I think the resivior is seperate from the pump on this one but not sure.
Eric Taylor
75317 From: The Acuna Family <mkacuna@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:06pm
Subject: Re: brake lights (YJ)
The turn signals and the brake lights share the same filament in the bulb, so if your turn signals are working, the lts are ok. It sounds like your not getting a signal from the brake switch.......check power at both wires on the switch. There should be power getting to the switch, the depress the button on the switch, and there should be power going out on the other wire.
I hope this helps,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Scholes
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75318 From: Reid Scholes <azturf@c...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:19pm
Subject: Re: brake lights (YJ)
Mike,
The switch works fine - the bottom terminal has power and the top terminal has power when the brake is applied. I'm going to check the turn signal switch to see if I can find a problem there. Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: The Acuna Family
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com ; Reid Scholes
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
The turn signals and the brake lights share the same filament in the bulb, so if your turn signals are working, the lts are ok. It sounds like your not getting a signal from the brake switch.......check power at both wires on the switch. There should be power getting to the switch, the depress the button on the switch, and there should be power going out on the other wire.
I hope this helps,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: Reid Scholes
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:12 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] brake lights (YJ)
Hello all,
I'm having a problem getting my brake lights to work on my '89 YJ. So far I have checked the bulbs, wiring from lights to fuse box, brake light switch on the brake pedal (non adjustable), and the fuse. The tail lights, turn signals, and reverse lights are all operational. Any ideas of something else I should check? Sorry for the electrically and mentally challenged question.
Reid
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75319 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 6:26pm
Subject: [FS] Wanted
Price: ?
Contact: Craig Whittington 602-696-1892
Steering Column for 1990 YJ with Automatic tranny shifter on column
Craig Whittington
75320 From: Wade <swaders7@y...> <swaders7@y...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:00pm
Subject: websites
Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
~Wade
'97 "Not a smurf" TJ
75321 From: TODD MCCULLEN <desertfab@m...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:29pm
Subject: AMC 904
I have one here at the shop rebuilt with torque converter ready to go.
Todd
www.desertfab.com
480-980-2681
480-288-4213
75322 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:30pm
Subject: RE: websites
Wade,
If I decided to have someone else administer my site, I'm not sure just
how that would work. The bulk of site is write-ups from projects and
mods I have done, trip reports, and a few other selected items.
Obviously, having someone else do a through write-up would be a
challenge unless they were there and participated in the project (and
then I am not certain I would like them doing the write-up!) LOL
So....I could write it up myself, but then I have already spent about
80% of the time needed for the finished product (toss in some pictures,
grab the page template, apply formatting, and FTP to the web site).
I may have missed the point here. Not sure. What is your take on it?
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Wade <swaders7@y...> [mailto:swaders7@y...]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 8:00 PM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] websites
Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
~Wade
'97 "Not a smurf" TJ
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
75323 From: DesertJeep <joey@d...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:32pm
Subject: RE: [Tech] 2000 tj - twisted driveline???
So where is it twisted?
I think a common mistake jeep owners make is to throw on a decent lift then big tires. The 4.0 is a respectable motor. Expecting the rest of the drive train to hold up after putting big tires on is a common misconception.
The second thing is after a lift neglecting the drive shaft angles. This could be a major cause of snapping U-joints left and right.
Joey K
93YJ
-----Original Message-----
From: AzVJC Website [mailto:azvjc@azvjc.org]
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 1:47 PM
To: AzVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] [Tech] 2000 tj - twisted driveline???
can someone help me??? I have a 2000 tj, real close to stock, and i've already twisted, and snapped two front drivelines! i know what you are going to say...keep your foot off the floor!!, but thats not it. both times they have snapped, i was at the top of my hill with little acceleration, turning the wheel back and forth for some front end traction. then snap!!! bring out the winch!! Anyone else with this problem?? help me out please.
James Hunt
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
75324 From: Chris Krieg <rv6a@m...>
Date: Mon Jan 13, 2003 7:46pm
Subject: Re: websites
I write my own site using Dreamweaver MX and it is stored on my Cox
webspace. I got my domain name through needa.com.
Chris
http://www.arizonatj.com
On Monday, January 13, 2003, at 08:00 PM, Wade <swaders7@y...>
wrote:
> Just out of curiosity...to all those that have good Jeep
> websites...do you house/administrate them yourselves? If not, who
> would you suggest someone use to house/administrate my Jeep website?
> I can do mine myself...I just don't have a lot of time or the
> resources. Any suggestions/advice is welcome. Thanks guys.
>
> ~Wade
> '97 "Not a smurf" TJ
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>