Upgrade my lift kit?

[sunroom2004]

The 2.5" Rancho lift on my TJ is starting to seem a little short. Overall, it meets my needs but it would be great to raise it up ~1inch and get rid of the TC lowering kit.

I'm trying to stick to a smaller budget.

I've seen two options that sound feasible...
1. Rancho sells taller coils for this kit (supposed to give 4" lift)
2. I've also seen coil spacers you can put on top of the springs

Appreciate if you could share any pros / cons for each option above. I would prefer to learn from any experiences.

thanks!

[spd33]

How about a 1 or 1.25" Body and MotorMount lift? It would keep your suspension geometry exactly how it is but give you that extra bit of clearance that you are desiring. I think the BodyLifts run about $120 and MotorMounts are about $60 or so for the pair.

Here is a write up that will give you an idea about the complexity of the project.

Body - http://www.4x4xplor.com/bl.html
MM - http://www.4x4xplor.com/MML.html

[Wayco]

How about a 1 or 1.25" Body and MotorMount lift? It would keep your suspension geometry exactly how it is but give you that extra bit of clearance that you are desiring. I think the BodyLifts run about $120 and MotorMounts are about $60 or so for the pair.

Here is a write up that will give you an idea about the complexity of the project.

Body - http://www.4x4xplor.com/bl.html
MM - http://www.4x4xplor.com/MML.html

This is probably the best way to get more clearance for larger tires, anything that increases the distance between your axles and frame will probably need to include a set of new shocks, SYE and a new driveshaft on the rear.
I'm not sure about your current set-up, but when I ran my Rubi. with the Teraflex 3" lift, I hated my TC drop. Someone told me to just take it off, that it wasn't necessary with that short of a lift. I put in the 1" body and motor mount lift, added an Nth tummy tucker and Tom Woods drive shaft instead. Not the cheap way, but having a smooth belly is a big plus when learning how to wheel in the rocks. :)

[lancetkenyon]

Very well put Wayne. You are becoming ever so wise, grasshopper.

[Wayco]

Very well put Wayne. You are becoming ever so wise, grasshopper.

So how about some Rep. points, I'm right behind you buddy.... :D:D
http://www.virtualjeepclub.com/memberlist.php?&order=DESC&sort=reputation&pp=30

Soon, I will snatch the pebble from your hand..... I already have the rice paper trick down pat.

[lancetkenyon]

"you must spread some reputation around before giving it to Wayco again"

[lancetkenyon]

besides....I didn't think anyone else was doing that anymore. With all my "instigations", I hardly ever get them.

[Wayco]

I still do it, and get that same lame statement when I do too. :mad:
I think Adam is the best thing to happen to this forum, he is ALWAYS helping out with advise and a helping hand, but some function in the software of this feature won't let us reward people when they do a good deed. :(
Thanks for the attempt anyway. It's just a part of my personality to try to share the knowledge that I have gained from this forum. :)

[sunroom2004]

How about a 1 or 1.25" Body and MotorMount lift?


I'm actually trying to knock out 2 problems with 1 stone...
The 33" tire rub and the TC skid plate is like an anchor in the rocks :D

I believe the body lift would be an effective way to help resolve the tire rub.

But taller springs (or spring spacers) may solve both. I'm interested to know if it's worth considering though. I don't want to change 10 other things to make the taller springs work.


Someone told me to just take it off, that it wasn't necessary with that short of a lift. I put in the 1" body and motor mount lift, added an Nth tummy tucker and Tom Woods drive shaft instead. Not the cheap way, but having a smooth belly is a big plus when learning how to wheel in the rocks. :)

I'm trying to figure out...what is required if I just put on taller springs or spacers on existing lift kit?

I expected a SYE, CV shaft, and likely adjustable upper CA in the rear.

Any need to worry about the stock steering setup and track bars?

By the way...I'm currenty running the lift shown in this link below.

http://www.gorancho.com/html/products/suspension/jeep/97_06wrangler_standard.html

[Wayco]

A drop pitman arm will fix the steering, and I have a bracket for the rear track bar that was on my original 3.5" Teraflex lift. As a matter of fact, I just pulled that whole lift kit off my '05 Rubi. but haven't posted it up for sale yet. Springs, upper and lower adjustable control arms, drop pitman arm, both track bars. Just bought some new Rancho RS 9000x adjustable shocks,less than 1000 miles on them. Probably not the cheapest way to go, but if you are interested, PM me.

[Fire Ball]

Some things to consider.

1: The center skid is more like a scoop shovel than an anchor :D

2: If you simply increase spring height, you will get some trail clearance but the springs, or other parts, will be the limiting factor for droop. Even though the vehicle will sit taller, since the same shocks are on, if a tire is of the ground with the old springs, it will be off the ground with the new springs. It WILL put a little more pressure on the ground before the tire comes up though.

3: A body lift will get you some more clearance for the tires.

4: Taller springs will give more clearance while wheeling small bumps but at full compression, the tire will still stuff up into the fender just as far. You will need to raise the body, trim the fenders, or lengthen the bump stop.

5: The higher you go with the drive line, the greater the angle at the rear drive shaft. SYE and CV is a good idea if you are getting up to 3" and above.

[sunroom2004]

Thanks for all the feedback...sounds like a reasonable approach would be:

1. Install 1" coil spring spacers
2. Monitor if rear driveline vibrations get too bad on road (remove spacers, if necessary)
3. Remove TC lowering kit and check for vibrations (put back on, if necessary)
4. Check if the shocks are limiting droop (replace, if necessary)
5. Install SYE and CV shaft (if necessary)
6. Install 1" body lift and new motor mounts at any time (if needed)

If this doesn't get the desired result, then I could buy Wayne's 3.5" Teraflex and use the coil spring spacers. :D

Either way, I'll likely need the SYE so it's a wash assuming I get the driveshaft length correct for a 3.5 to 4.5" lift.

[Fire Ball]

The SYE is nice if you break a rear drive shaft or ujoints. You can remove the broken pieces and drive out in front wheel drive.

If all you are trying to do now is get tires to stop rubbing, I would install the BL. It is a good start for other projects. It makes a belly up easier, makes a motor mount lift easier. Gives tire clearance.

I'm up for a wrenching party :)

I'm not familiar with what Wayne had on before so I can't offer any advice there but he is a very knowledgeable guy and seems to spend his money wisely.

1" coils spacers are nice because they give your springs a little pre load and may also keep the springs from rattling at full extension,.

4Wheelers is a good source for shocks or keep an eye out for used ones. Desert Fab is another good source of parts and info.

[ORIGoodyear]

I'm actually trying to knock out 2 problems with 1 stone...
The 33" tire rub and the TC skid plate is like an anchor in the rocks :D

I believe the body lift would be an effective way to help resolve the tire rub.

But taller springs (or spring spacers) may solve both. I'm interested to know if it's worth considering though. I don't want to change 10 other things to make the taller springs work.




I'm trying to figure out...what is required if I just put on taller springs or spacers on existing lift kit?

I expected a SYE, CV shaft, and likely adjustable upper CA in the rear.

Any need to worry about the stock steering setup and track bars?

By the way...I'm currenty running the lift shown in this link below.

http://www.gorancho.com/html/products/suspension/jeep/97_06wrangler_standard.html

If you do a body lift and motor mount lift the motor mount lift will actualy help with the driveline angles and in SOME cases allow you to remove the t-case drop (if so equiped)without creating any driveline vibe but your best bet is still a SYE

[sunroom2004]

I'm up for a wrenching party :)


That would be great...thanks for the offer! :D

Let me marinade on my game plan a bit longer and then we can look for a good time.

I may need to buy the parts over time to spread out the cost.

regards,
Frank

[Fire Ball]

I may need to buy the parts over time to spread out the cost.

regards,
Frank


Pretty much the way of the west :)