girlfriends wants 78 cherokee fsj need advice

[shaggy914]

my girlfriend wants a jeep and we found a 78 fsj for sale and she really wants it now.

78 cherokee chief.
360v8
3spd auto w/ od
fulltime awd with low gear
2 dr with fold down rear.
31'' tires
front buckets rear bench.

car has 80K on it.
engine has 7K rebuilt by current owner.
headers with flow master and side pipes.
carborated.
interior is a 5 of 10.
all running.
steering box leaks and needs ac compressor.
has little rust on the back of the fenders.
body is solid frame is good.

guys asking $1500.

shes looking for a hauling/playing vehicle.
this will not be a dd by any means(she has a prius).
she wants 33's.
bumpers and a roll cage.

i told her 35's.
sliders.
cage.
bumpers.
and lockers.

my questions are:
what axles does it have?
whats their reputation?
major problems?
lift and sye's?
tranny problems?
what t-case?
generally any and everything you know.

please help if possible.
good looking car and id love her to have a jeep.

[CaptainMorgan]

I know they have dana44's front and rear, which is good. The steering box will be a couple hundred for a new one. It might have a crappy AWD t-case. That is all I know about those.

[AZLugz]

I can't help a lot but I have had some older chryslers and the 360 is a decent motor, not real great in any one respect but over all a decent unit.

The chrysler cars with the 360, normally had a 904 trans and that is trash. I think the FSJ's all had the 727(if they had a chrysler tranny) and that is a real good tranny.

If you get it and it has the ignition resistor block (white ceramic block on firewall with a wire connected to a terminal at each end), ALWAYS carry a spare, won't start without it and they burn out at the worst times!!!


NEXT...



.

[Oc1paddler]

It should have Dana 44's front and rear. It probably has a Quadra Trac transfer case wich is not the best. They work well, when they work but have been known to have catostaphic failure "ask me how I know". The stock springs generally flex well, and you can do a spring over and fit 35's without a problem. They will wheel incredible well as long as they can fit. My first jeep was a 76 wagoneer and I wheeled the heck out of it.
$1500 sounds like a good deal if it runs and drive well. I would plan on swapping the tcase in the future for something other than a quadra trac unit but otherwise you should be good to go.

It should also have a th400 tranny

[Easyover]

Front axle will be D44 passenger drop
Rear axle will be offset AMC20 (one piece axles)
Motor is AMC 360 (good powerplant. Plenty of parts for upgrades. Biggest issue is having all the emissions parts in place)
Tranny is the near bullit proof GM TH400 (not an O/D tranny)
T/C is the Borg Warner 1339 Quadra Trac. Some like it, most don't. Chain stretches and skips. Part time kits available, but expensive.

Overall these things are tanks! Great offroad with minimal mods. Plenty of aftermarket support. Horrible on gas. Lots of little quirks with electrical and such, but easy to work on. The value for these (especially the wide trac Cheros) are going up if they are rust free.

Any and all information about this Jeep can be found here http://www.ifsja.org/

[Easyover]

I can't help a lot but I have had some older chryslers and the 360 is a decent motor, not real great in any one respect but over all a decent unit.




.

This Jeep did not come with a Chrysler 360. It came with pure AMC 360 muscle! Not the same motor and no parts interchange.

[AZJeeps TJ&XJ]

If it was like my 79', the tranny should be a turbo 400, the TC is a quadratrac, the axles should be d44's, but the rear is not centered, it is offset to the passenger side.

Some pros and cons that I know. The motor is a good motor, if rebuilt right, then it should have some power. The main problem I had was the carb, this is where you would not want to go cheap. They do have some of the Ford ignition setup, some say it is ok, but I was never a fan. The axles should hold up to 35's, the front is very common, but the rear is not as because of the offset. As for lifting, it is similar to a YJ for issues, except the rear driveshaft is longer, so a SYE is not needed unless you get some serious lift going. The tranny is a good tranny, it was taken from GM, so the guts of it are a normal Turbo 400, which could be found on a good number of trucks. But the bell housing was changed to mate it to the 360. The TC is a Borg-Warner QuadraTrac model #1339 I believe. It worked, but I was not a fan of the vacuum controlled to enable/disable it for the full time/part time.

I liked mine for what little drive time it saw, most of the time spent was getting it to run and be drivable. It is a tank and not a good DD unless you have some serious updating for creature comforts.

[AZLugz]

This Jeep did not come with a Chrysler 360. It came with pure AMC 360 muscle! Not the same motor and no parts interchange.

Cool, I had been told years back that they were the same and I know AMC used some chrysler parts. Good to know tho, thanks

[chopped7]

One thing I didn't see mentioned is the axles are wider that the Wagoneer. They are closer to full size truck axles.

I think the Cherokee Chiefs are more valuable than the avarage Waggy because there aren't as many, 2 door, wider axles, and probably some other stuff. For $1500, I would snag it even if it needs a little work.

The Q-trac isn't so bad if it works. The low range is about 2.5:1 instead of the 2:1 you get in the D20. You can swap in a D20 fairly cheap as well. I would do that before the part time kit. You can do it with junkyard parts(no custom adapters), or get the output shaft and adapter you need from Novak brand new. D20's are easy to find and usually pretty cheap. Of course then you will need a centered rear end but there are plenty of those that can be found that you wouldn't need to cut down. The gas tank may be in the way for a centered rear but maybe not. You could turn it into a 3/4 ton fairly reasonably which is a good idea if it's a tow rig.

[shaggy914]

sounds like a good rig.
in the dark of night her axles might mysteriously turn into d30 front and a 35c rear and my yj will have 44's but thats another conversations that she wont like.

so dana's or the amc 20 rear?
is the amc 20 a good axle?

how much life would be suggested for 33's and now much needed for 35's?
im going to put poison spyder style flairs on it.

what could i change the t case for w/o modification to axles?

on the turbo 400 think 80k is a good idea?
the t-case is vacuum?

guy claims gas mileage to be 17/22.
sounds crazy to me.
when i drove it it was quick but there didnt seem to be much torque.
carb plate?
and the p/s made the thing too soft to handle.
any ways to fix?

shes thinking like 2200 with the possible repairs and all.
think ill offer 1300.

thoughts?
thanks for all the response.
id really like her to have a rig so she wont drive my jeep ever again. ::scary::

[Oc1paddler]

[QUOTE=shaggy914;227251]sounds like a good rig.
in the dark of night her axles might mysteriously turn into d30 front and a 35c rear and my yj will have 44's but thats another conversations that she wont like.

The rearend won't work in the YJ due to it being offset.

so dana's or the amc 20 rear?
is the amc 20 a good axle?

Not sure if the model 20 in fullsize came with two piece axles like they did in the cj or not. You can get one piece chromoly axles and truss the housing and end up with a decent axle.

how much lift would be suggested for 33's and now much needed for 35's?
im going to put poison spyder style flairs on it.

Probably about 2" for 33's and 4" to 5" for 35's. A spring over works out perfect for 35's

what could i change the t case for w/o modification to axles?

You can realistically go with anything that will bolt up to the back of the th400. The driveshaft will run at a little bit of and angle but as long as its not lifted to high it will work fine. Somebody is going to flame me :rolleyes:for saying it will work but I've seen it done lots of times.

on the turbo 400 think 80k is a good idea?
the t-case is vacuum?

The turbo400 is a great tranny. Mileage doesn't mean anything on a tranny that old. You could get many, many, miles out of it or the clutchpacks could be dry rotted from sitting without fluid and they could fall apart as soon as you start driving it. Know way to know for sure. The Quadra Trac use's a vacum dial to lock the case for equal power front to rear. When its unlocked it sends power like an open diff. Lots of vacum hoses that tend to dryrot.

guy claims gas mileage to be 17/22.
sounds crazy to me.

Probably ment Kilometers per gallon ;) I know I never got anything close to that out of mine.
when i drove it it was quick but there didnt seem to be much torque.
carb plate?

I put a holly 4 barrel and a edlebrock performer intake on mine and it ran like a raped ape.
and the p/s made the thing too soft to handle.
any ways to fix?

It should have a Saginaw 76 box. Thats a great box and you can probably tighten it up, or if its worn out Benchworks could rebuild it for you for about 200 bucks.

[shaggy914]

think 2.5'' lift and some cutting will make 35's fit?

would i be best off buying a new steering box or rebuilding it?

is there a specific vacuum line to buy and if so where do i get it?

what carb to use?

did it have front disk brakes?

what would other dry rot wear items be on that vehicle besides the vac lines?

[TRobertsRN]

I used to have a 78 Cherokee Chief Wide Track.

This year and this Jeep is possibly one of the most desired full size jeeps. This was the first or second year of electronic ignition, has front disk brakes (started in 74), Dana 44s (not the split case kind) front and rear, the last year of round headlights, one of the last years of the TH400 tranny, last year of the 401 V-8 (you got the 360), wide track and fender flares mean less lift and lower center of gravity to fit bigger tires compared to the narrow track Cherokee and the Wagoner of the same time. And there are other things I don't remember.

I agree with most of what has been said.

I will add some information that was not brought up before.

I agree with most of what has been said and my disagreements are my opinion. But I did have one of these as a daily driver and my off road toy for over ten years. Parts of it are in my 53 Willys Pickup.

It will fit 33 x 12.5s without rubbing off road with a 3 inch non spring over lift. It will fit 32 x 11.5 without rubbing stock. The rear is already spring over, I don't suggest lifting the rear with blocks. As to the front a spring over is not needed as there are good lift kits these days with good ride and steering without a spring over.

For 35s and no rub you will need a 6 in lift again non spring over and a dropped pitman arm. Also if you go 35s you will need to regear (stock gears on this vehicle are 3.54:1), and if you regear may need a carrier change. If you don't regear your off road performance and gas mileage will really suck.

No way on what he quoted you for gas mileage. Even if he changed the gears to 2.73 these vehicles are still flying bricks, no aerodynamics. I got about 13 and 15 on mine. He may not be trying to be dishonest. If he has bigger than stock tires it will appear to get better mileage because the speedo has not been recalibrated. This will also mean it has more miles on it than the speedo says.

You can strongly increase gas mileage with a switch to a 4 barrel manifold and carb (since it already has a better flowing exhaust) and being easy on the gas pedal. There are stock 4 barrel manifolds that fit but hard to find, they were on the 401s found in some of these Jeeps. As mentioned Edledbrock makes a number of choice in manifolds and carbs.

The axles as said are Dana 44s front and rear, and the transmission is an AMC cased TH400.

I would not change these at all.

Now the BW transfer. I would keep it and have it serviced. Great in the snow and mud in the "non emergency" mode that it is in without flipping the switch in the glove box (this can be moved to the dash easily with parts from a slightly newer one). Basically in non emergency mode it is a limited slip transfer case which makes for great control in the snow. When you flip the switch it locks the transfer and gives better performance when you want the same power to the front and rear.

If per a pro the transfer has issues now or in the future, don't replace with a Dana 20. Instead get a Spicer 18, it has the same passenger drop as your BW and you can keep the rear Dana 44 that is superior to the rear AMC 20. There are kits to make the Spicer 18 a 4:1 transfer. 4:1 is very nice depending on how you gear it and what tire size you choose you will still get good highway RPM and strong off road performance. Also you can add an overdrive to this transfer case. Check out Novak at there wed site about adapting the Spicer 18 transfer to the AMC TH 400, they give a high opinion of this swap. Also this would give you the option in the future to use the rear out of a 3/4 or one ton J truck with auto transmission that was a Dana 60. Not positive they did the heavy J trucks with and auto and a 60. 60 may have only been an option with the manual tranny and that would have had a AMC 20 transfer behind a T-18 I believe.

When you lift it do not go with the cheap overseas springs, they are stiff on the ride and sag after a few years.

It likely has a dr0op in the driver’s side rear (bumper not even. This is a common problem usually solved by replacement of springs and of shackle bushings.

That’s all I remember for now.


Enjoy, I looked years to find mine of exactly the year you are looking at.


Tom

[TRobertsRN]

Also if needed I have some parts from my 78 for sale. See adds in Full Size Jeep parts. Below is a list, the seats I haven't put and ad on yet, still deciding if I will use them.

Hood.

Instrument panel with new old stock gages that all work, and speedo with about 12,000 miles on it.

I also have 2 best top back reclining high back seats already mounted on the base supports from my 78. They are almost like new and covered with saddle blanket seat covers. I was planning to put these in my Willys but haven't committed to that.

When the body on mine just wasn't worth fixing (rust from Louisiana) I sold the parts for way more than they are asking for the one you are considering.

[shaggy914]

what brand kit would you recommend for lifting this?
i have found a 2.5 and a 4 but no 3.

when you wheeled this vehicle did you have the emergency switch on or off?

can anyone help me with carb choice?
i know EFI not carbs.
other than weber carbs for porsche's.

think the stock t case is geared low enough to do the back way to crown king?
thats as far as shes willing to go at this point.
with a 3'' lift and 33's what gears would be recomended?
are arb's available for the d44's in this vehicle?

sounds like a good vehicle for her.
havent heard any faults besides the t-case and the size of it.

[CaptainMorgan]

I bet it would make the back way to crown king, then again I have a 2wd Ford that will make it with me behind the stupid pedal...

Also there is an ARB for waggy 44's, im not sure about the AMC20. Probably, they exsist in 95% of the last 10 years of CJ's. The waggy and FSJ amc20 is better than the CJ becasue of the one piece shafts and from what I have read, a stronger housing.

[TRobertsRN]

think 2.5'' lift and some cutting will make 35's fit?

Short answer, no.

You will need to do some cutting for even 33s to fit with a 2.5 lift.

The right lift to fit 35's is not that much more than a 2.5 lift, see my long winded response with this info about lifts included. Like all Jeepers you will want to lift it higher later and will have wasted the money you spent on a 2.5 lift.


would i be best off buying a new steering box or rebuilding it?

What exactly is the steering doing? When working right they are known to be very easy to steer with one finger. Steering is so easy some people think something is wrong with it. When I got my small 2000 Cherokee I thought it didn't have power steering at first because I was used to my 78 Cherokee. If it has too much play in the steering wheel it may just need adjustment. There is a nut on top of the steering box. Get a Hanes or Chiltons repair manual. It will tell you how to adjust the play in the steering wheel. You want some play other wise you prematurely wear out the steering box. Don't know enought to tell you buy new vs rebuild.

is there a specific vacuum line to buy and if so where do i get it?

Any parts store should have this or there is always the dealer.

what carb to use?

Don't have an answer on that one. Too long since I had a carb that I plan to keep. I will be switching to propane on my carbed 53.

did it have front disk brakes?

Yes, front disk on these since 1974. Forgot to mention in other post, these are not flat top Knuckles that would be needed for the high steer conversion you would need with a spring over conversion that I don't recommend anyway.

what would other dry rot wear items be on that vehicle besides the vac lines?

Check the tires, even if tread is good, can be old enough to have cracks between the treds and on the side walls.







Hope this helps, I inserted my answers in the quote from you.

[shaggy914]

that does help alot.

the reason for the concern with the box is that it is leaking.
relative the the feel.
it drives like you described.
personally that bothers me but im used to driving a 914 with no p/s and a yj with bigger tires.

what would you think about a super lift or a skyjacker on this vehicle?

anyone able to help me with carbs?

[TRobertsRN]

what brand kit would you recommend for lifting this?
i have found a 2.5 and a 4 but no 3.

I would go with a 4 and 33s.

when you wheeled this vehicle did you have the emergency switch on or off?

Mine was a part time conversion so wheeled with switch on. In general in stock form wheel with switch off to let the transfer do its thing until emergency drive needed it will steer better this way, particullary if you have lockers added. If you are rock crawling put it on.

can anyone help me with carb choice?
i know EFI not carbs.
other than weber carbs for porsche's.

think the stock t case is geared low enough to do the back way to crown king?

Yes if you stick to 33s and it is geared to the stock 3.54:1

thats as far as shes willing to go at this point.
with a 3'' lift and 33's what gears would be recomended?

Stock gears would be fine, this vehicle came with 31s or 32s I can't remember which. Change gears if you go to 35s.

are arb's available for the d44's in this vehicle?

sounds like a good vehicle for her.
havent heard any faults besides the t-case and the size of it.

In truth this T-case if fine if properley manintained per manufacturer suggestions. It uses a special fluid that is pricy (unless converted to part time then uses plain old transmission fluid) and needs more frequent changes than other transfers.

Put the answers in the quotes again.

If I didn't already have two Jeeps I would consider getting this one myself.

Enjoy,

Tom

Also check out the Internation Full Size Jeep web site. Lots of knowledgeable people there.

Forgot to mention, what is the oil pressure like? It is typically over 40 running and drops to about 20 at idle. If maintains better than 20 at idle indicates a quality rebuild but normal to drop to 20 at idle for the 360 AMC with a few miles.

Also at idle shift it from part to drive when cold. Is there a delay before it goes into gear. If so may have a torque converter issue or will do this when low on tranny fluid. If low may have a leak. Mine did this for years, usually would not have a delay once warm. To help with this when cold warm it up in neutral instead of park. Fluid does not circulate in the transmission in park. This will help the transmission warm up and work better.

[TRobertsRN]

Superlift and Skyjacker are good choices and years ago they had choices in stiffness and flexability, smooth ride vs stronger springs. May be that today you can get the best of both worlds in one lift. They folks at 4 Wheeler Suppy, Desert Fab and other sponsors are better choice for info on what are the best ones now.

Avoid the cheaper rough country, I was not happy with mine, cheap but too stiff.

Other answers in quote.

.

that does help alot.

the reason for the concern with the box is that it is leaking.

Leaking, well, would consider changing it out. Is it noisy when someone turns it while you are at the front of the vehicle? This might indicate a problem. Now it will make some noise but compare it to to another Full Size Jeep.

relative the the feel.

Yeah very little to none of the feed back and feel you get with a sports car. You will like how it turns big tires though.

it drives like you described.
personally that bothers me but im used to driving a 914 with no p/s and a yj with bigger tires.

what would you think about a super lift or a skyjacker on this vehicle?

See above.

anyone able to help me with carbs?

[Oc1paddler]

that does help alot.

the reason for the concern with the box is that it is leaking.
relative the the feel.
it drives like you described.
personally that bothers me but im used to driving a 914 with no p/s and a yj with bigger tires.

what would you think about a super lift or a skyjacker on this vehicle?

anyone able to help me with carbs?

The steering box is very desirable, so with that being said I would have it rebuilt by Benchworks in Scottsdale. 480-946-3992. For a little more they will port it and cap it so if you ever want hydralic assist its already done. Skyjacker and Rancho both make a decent spring. For not much more you can have Alcan make you a great spring that will have the exact ride and flex characters that you want. I personnelly like spring overs, some people don't. Both have pluses and minus, and neither one is wrong. If you do go with a model 18 tc make sure you upgrade the outputs. I was on the fence about putting fuel injection or a carb on my current jeep and after using the Holly offroad avenger I wouldn't have any trouble recomending one to someone.

Oh and for the record, a stock cheroke on street tires would make Crown King no problems.:D
Hope this helps

[Easyover]

For lifts and such go here:

http://www.bjsoffroad.com/

[shaggy914]

test drove it today.
she likes it.
alot.

my findings.
steering box has too much play and is leaking badly.
when a hard turn is made from the front axle there is a popping sound from the driver tire.
i have no idea what it is but its worrying me.

when on the throttle and then coming off quickly there is kind of a knock from the drive train.
tranny?
t-case?
gears?

the u joints looked fine.
the tranny shifts fine.
didnt really test the tcase.

interior looks like sh*t.
carpet is done.
dash looks bad.
gauges glass is coming off.
seats need replaced.
rear seat needs replaced/recovered.
rear panels are falling apart.
door panels need redone.

paint is fair.
few dings and chips.
one gouge looking thing with paint poorly repaired.
frame looks good.
fenders are ok.
how do those come off?
alot of the lenses need replaced.
headliner needs replaced.
engine is strong.
sounds very very good.
throttle cable got stuck at one point.
brakes are pulsating as applied.
no so much through the pedal as throughout the car as it slows it kinda lurches.
thinking drums out of round.
wheel bearings feel ok and sound ok but need a twin post to tell.
entire under body looks great.
not a single rock dent.
t case has small leak.
lik pan has small leak.
tranny looks good.
has all smog parts.

all lights work.
thats all i remember.

asking 1500.
thoughts?
im thinking 1300.

please help if you can diagnose those sounds i am hearing.

[CaptainMorgan]

I'd go with 1,000 and see if he takes it.

[shaggy914]

they seem pretty set on the price.
she kept saying "its an old vehicle"
"they are easier to work on"
so idk.

do you mean its only worth 1000 or just trying to get a better deal?

[CaptainMorgan]

I would say its worth what it's worth. I personally would shoot for a good deal. See if they take it and be prepared to offer as much as you want. Sounds great, but I can tell you that our CJ is harder to work on than our TJ just because 30 years can allow a lot of gremlins to appear. Like previous owners monkeying things up here and there and general wear and tear. I've had 2 late 70's vehicles and they can be just as hard to work on sometimes, sometimes harder. I would just try to get a smokin deal. I think it sounds possible.

[shaggy914]

hi i'm the girlfriend.

so we went and drove the jeep today, i drove it too so it wasn't just jim doing all the dirty work. my daily driver is a toyota prius, you know the goofy looking little hybrid, jim calls it a hippie car, but its actually a great little vehicle. after going off road with jim and actually driving his jeep through the mud and dirt i've decided that i too might want a fun car. this car would be a toy/tool only. i would keep my prius as my daily driver but would want something that i could go camping, kayaking, off roading, or help my dad haul things he would need for house keeping type chores. i like the old jeep Cherokee, my grandfather used to have one when i was younger and i loved it. i also like the fact that its big enough to put a large amount of stuff in the back unlike the wrangler (sorry guys i like the wrangler too). having driven primarily a subaru forester, a small puck up truck, and now my super smooth super quiet prius, this jeep is what i would call a beast! i liked driving it though, it sat up high so i could see everything which i like and the ride wasn't exactly what i would call smooth, but i liked the way it felt. the brakes seemed a little strange to me but jim said i would get used to it. i would like something that i could go off road in and not get in any kind of trouble, like getting stuck. granted i would not go off road on any trails that i thought were too difficult. i probably wouldn't go on trails that were any harder than the back way trail to crown king, i'm a little too nervous about getting stuck. would an old cherokee like that be a good off roading vehicle? and what would you suggest doing to it? keep in mind i don't have an unlimited budget and i would like it to be street legal. let me know what you think, jim can fill you in on any kind of engine/technical details.

thanks so much!
Amanda

[shaggy914]

no one has any advice?

[OlneyJeeps]

I read most of the replys (just got out of hospital and painkillers are not doing job totally) and TRoberts seems the best.

I have had around 10 of what you are referring to (missed if is wide trac or not). wide trac has flares and will accomodate bigger tires. narrow trac is pain to get to fit bigger tires

I have lots of parts if you need some. Currently have (among others) 77 J10 390 TH400, qtrac (have had since got from my dad in 84).

as insurance agent/dad, big metal is almost always safer

got to go

call me for advice/info

SteveO
602-482-2428

[TRLR8TDTJ]

hi i'm the girlfriend.

so we went and drove the jeep today, i drove it too so it wasn't just jim doing all the dirty work. my daily driver is a toyota prius, you know the goofy looking little hybrid, jim calls it a hippie car, but its actually a great little vehicle. after going off road with jim and actually driving his jeep through the mud and dirt i've decided that i too might want a fun car. this car would be a toy/tool only. i would keep my prius as my daily driver but would want something that i could go camping, kayaking, off roading, or help my dad haul things he would need for house keeping type chores. i like the old jeep Cherokee, my grandfather used to have one when i was younger and i loved it. i also like the fact that its big enough to put a large amount of stuff in the back unlike the wrangler (sorry guys i like the wrangler too). having driven primarily a subaru forester, a small puck up truck, and now my super smooth super quiet prius, this jeep is what i would call a beast! i liked driving it though, it sat up high so i could see everything which i like and the ride wasn't exactly what i would call smooth, but i liked the way it felt. the brakes seemed a little strange to me but jim said i would get used to it. i would like something that i could go off road in and not get in any kind of trouble, like getting stuck. granted i would not go off road on any trails that i thought were too difficult. i probably wouldn't go on trails that were any harder than the back way trail to crown king, i'm a little too nervous about getting stuck. would an old cherokee like that be a good off roading vehicle? and what would you suggest doing to it? keep in mind i don't have an unlimited budget and i would like it to be street legal. let me know what you think, jim can fill you in on any kind of engine/technical details.

thanks so much!
Amanda


I would say to get newer cherokee one with fuel injection. It would be a lot easier to drive with good steering, and brakes. It would be a lot easier to manuver on the trail. The parts are easier to come by, and you might even have ac. It will be all around more dependable. I love the looks of the older cherokee, but I think not having to work on it everytime you want to go wheeling or drive it is a plus.

I used to wheel 89 cherokee for couple years, and that thing would go anywhere I wanted go and more. I sold it and bought Mustang, and old 79 Bronco. I used to take the bronco wheeling all the time and I was always working on it. Something was always leaking on it or broke. It was harder to manuver on the trail, and it was real heavy. It seemed to cost a lot to wheel just trying to keep it dependable. I think I got like 7 miles per gallon. I finally decided I had to get small jeep again, and bought tj and never missed driving that big POS.

That is just my opinion to get something smaller and newer. If you do break on the trail just about everyone has spare parts to get you home.

Kyle

[chopped7]

just a couple ideas. the popping on a hard turn could be a bad ball joint or plenty of other things going on up front. the drivetrain knock could be a bad tranny mount of something like that.

then again, either one could be something big requiring the rebuild of a component. $1500 seems like a good price. anything less is a bonus. You have to figure that thing would probably be worth 5k in good shape(no leaks, good interior, good paint). Find out what really nice ones are going for, estimate how much it would take to get yours there(cosmetically) and decide if you think 1500 is worth it. leaks and worn ball joints, tre's, motor mounts, etc. are things you usually have to deal with any time you buy an old rig.

It seems like a good deal on a cool old rig that needs a little tlc. just buy it. if it turns out to be too much work or the big truck novelty wears off and she doesn't like it anymore, just sell it to somebody else.

[OlneyJeeps]

not to steel thread, but
http://thumb1.webshots.net/s/thumb2/7/87/78/217578778HqTMlK_th.jpg

89 XJ 4.0 4spd auto, full/part time xfercase, non c clip rear, non vac disconnect front;
RE 4" lift front (springs, lca's, adj upper's) plus 2" puck
custom rear leaf pack
lock right in rear axle
dyaneer tru-trac (clutchless posi) for front (not installed yet
new ac system
new exhaust
new radiator (retrofitted to open system)
new fuel pump
new headliner
receiver hitch
31x10.5 bfg at
runs awsome, no smoke
clearcoat coming off on top surfaces; hood primered for paint
power windows (work)
power doorlocks (some stick)
cruise control (works awsome)
new headliner
interior clean but not perfect

$3400
Steve
602-482-2428

[TRobertsRN]

I owned a 78 Cherokee Chief like you are considering as you know, and I have a 2000 Cherokee XJ.

If you were to find an XJ in the same price range you are looking at in my opinion the best choice would be the Full Size 78. What ever future costs of repair would be the same or even more for an XJ with enough miles to be only worth $1000-$1500 with fuel injection and parts not as durable as a 78 Cherokee

Other than the gas mileage (15 freway vs 19 freeway isn't much difference) and carb vs fuel injection the 78 is a superior vehicle.

78 Cherokee better in my opinion in areas listed below:

Some prefer carb to fuel injection. Problem with carb on the trial much easier than problem with fuel injection to fix enough to get home. And fuel injection can be added later if you desire.

Better off road.

Tows more.

Roof with rack will support more weight.

Superior in a crash. Crash ratings are based on two vehicles of similar size in a crash. Even if the newer cherokee was rated a 5 and the old one a 3 you have a better chance in the older cherokee.

Stronger axles and bigger brakes, more tolerant of bigger tires. Came with 32" tires stock, so unless you go with bigger than 35" tires and pound it off road you won't need to swap in stronger axles. Many have gone with tires significantly larger with no issues.

More comfortable and roomy front seats.

Parts are not a problem as most are interchangeable for many years of the full size Cherokees, Wagoneers, and J-Trucks. They were made from the 60's to the 80's.

More room for stuff or passengers in rear. Much more passenger leg room.

Easier and cheaper to lift.

The TH400 transmission is superior to any auto put in an XJ as to durability. Has no overdive but already discussed you can get an overdrive if you ever swap in a spicer 18 transfer.

Longer wheel base makes for more tolerant of higher lifts and add ons like crawler boxes or other overdrives not discussed before because not as much drive line angle issues.

Is on a truck frame instead of a unibody. Therefore more tolerant of off road abuse.

78 can be made emissions exempt by insuring as a collector or historic vehicle from what I understand (I am learning about that one).

Have you ever tried to fool around in the back seat of an XJ?

Stronger recovery vehicle for when your friends get theirs stuck.

I am sure there are others I haven't though of.

And just has way more cool points.


OK, I am convinced, anyone want to buy an XJ?:D

[TRobertsRN]

just a couple ideas. the popping on a hard turn could be a bad ball joint or plenty of other things going on up front. the drivetrain knock could be a bad tranny mount of something like that.

then again, either one could be something big requiring the rebuild of a component. $1500 seems like a good price. anything less is a bonus. You have to figure that thing would probably be worth 5k in good shape(no leaks, good interior, good paint). Find out what really nice ones are going for, estimate how much it would take to get yours there(cosmetically) and decide if you think 1500 is worth it. leaks and worn ball joints, tre's, motor mounts, etc. are things you usually have to deal with any time you buy an old rig.

It seems like a good deal on a cool old rig that needs a little tlc. just buy it. if it turns out to be too much work or the big truck novelty wears off and she doesn't like it anymore, just sell it to somebody else.

I agree, get the Cherokee.

The poping could be worn bushings in the shakle hangers for the leaf springs.

Get under it while running and have someone turn the wheel back and forth. Watch the leaf springs to see if they suddenly make a jerking move at the sound of the pop. My 78 one ton van 4WD conversion had this issue. Cheap and easy fix.

[TRobertsRN]

not to steel thread, but
http://thumb1.webshots.net/s/thumb2/7/87/78/217578778HqTMlK_th.jpg

89 XJ 4.0 4spd auto, full/part time xfercase, non c clip rear, non vac disconnect front;
RE 4" lift front (springs, lca's, adj upper's) plus 2" puck
custom rear leaf pack
lock right in rear axle
dyaneer tru-trac (clutchless posi) for front (not installed yet
new ac system
new exhaust
new radiator (retrofitted to open system)
new fuel pump
new headliner
receiver hitch
31x10.5 bfg at
runs awsome, no smoke
clearcoat coming off on top surfaces; hood primered for paint
power windows (work)
power doorlocks (some stick)
cruise control (works awsome)
new headliner
interior clean but not perfect

$3400
Steve
602-482-2428

Steve,

My post about XJ vs 78 Cherokee Cheif was not in response to your post. I had not seen it and it went up while I was composing my long winded response to someone suggesting a newer Cherokee instead of the 78. For someone who wants an XJ yours sounds like a great rig with a very reasonable price.

[OlneyJeeps]

Tom, no offence taken
your info/advice is whole heartedly 2nd'd by me

I was going to say (then you said) that the bushings (spring) are whithout a doubt the culprit for the knock when turning

tests for transfercase (assuming quadratrac) :

from dead stop, put in gear, stomp (but NOT neutral drop). if chain is stretched, is most likely to induce skiping (bang bang bang feels like gears skipping). try once in 1st, once in low range first

make sure "emergency drive" (kinda like air locker in tcase) is working. For this you have to know if has part time kit installed. if it has locking hubs, odds are (but not definate... I have locking hubs but am still full time) it has part time kit. Lift right rear wheel, put in gear. Full time will allow rear wheel to spin and front will "try" to pull (APPLY BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO PUT IN PARK). Turn vacum switch to "emeregency drive" (locks front to rear). if front is engaged/locked (in tcase), should try to pull vehicle forward.

for further info, feel free to call

SteveO
602-482-2428