Front YJ superlift springs

[Jeep4ME]

I installed a set of 3.5" Superlift springs on my YJ a while back and haven't been happy with the bump steer, though not bad wife hates it. So I installed a dropped Pitman arm last night. I noticed that the new arm is going to hit my tie rod under full articulation.

I measured my springs and noticed there is just over a 1/2 inch longer difference in the length of the springs behind my axle as opposed to the front of the axle.

Is there a front and a back to these springs. I think I might have my springs on backwards or is it impossible to get them reversed.

It looks like if I reverse my springs my Pitman arm will clear the tie rod.

[cptmax]

Make sure the leaf packs with the most leafs go in front, that's where the weight is.

[Jeep4ME]

I've been reviewing Superlifts website. My springs still have the part numbers on them. 01-540f-6 (front) and 01540r-6 (Rear). Based on Superlifts doco the f is front and r is rear. So I have that right. They say to install the large end of the spring to the fixed frame mount, and thats the way I have it.

In regards to the prior post my springs have 4 leafs in the front and 5 in the rear. I'm off to measure the length of the rear springs.

[Jeep4ME]

Okay, got an answer. I measured the stock springs and they measure 24" from center pin to end of spring. The new springs measure 25 1/4" from center pin to end of spring pack, due to the increased arc.

So under flex the front axle gets pushed forward 1.25 inches more than a stock spring, Thus causing my dropped pitman arm to hit my tie rod.

Does someone makes a dropped pitman arm that isn't as long, center to center, mine is about 5.5", to give me more distance from the tie?


I guess I have two options.

1. Add 1" more lift to give my pitman arm more room, which means different springs and more $$$, oh and the bump steer comes back.

2. Put my stock pitman arm back on and live with a little bump steer.

I guess I'm going to checker to borrow their pitman arm puller again.

I guess thats why they don't recommend the dropped pitman arm until you have 4.5" of lift.

[ob1jeeper]

Shorter pitman arms are available, but will be a non-standard item, that will not likely be readily available off the shelf. A proper metal shop with the specifications to get the heat treating right could build one, but many will shy away due to liability.

I did see some advertised a few days ago... Will see if I can recall where that was.

Also be aware that shortening the pitman arm has the net effect of quickening the steering ratio, so the vehicle becomes sensitive to small steering inputs, increasing risk of too quick/too much steering input at highway speeds. One way to compensate for this is if you find it troublesome, would be to use a CJ gear, which has a slower ger ratio that the YJ , XJ and SJ's...;)

[rvisokey]

I am not an expeert but I have never seen leaf packs on a jeep with more leafs in the rear?

Seems they are one backwards.

my .02 worth

[YJINAZ]

Yep on YJ's there are more springs in the back. This is for preventing spring wrap.

Don

[roger]

I used to run Superlift 3.5" springs on my YJ. The pitman arm did contact the tie rod but it was really just more of a rubbing. It did not cause any problems. I say run what you have and see if it's really a problem before trying to fix it.

BTW, 5 leafs in back and 4 leafs in front is correct for a YJ.

[ob1jeeper]

Here's a local company that can likely help you... http://benchworksteering.com/

Since they are local, I'm betting they can help you personally get to the bottom of your issue and come up with a solution...


Also... here's one of the shops that build custom pitman arms (among many other things for steering)... Not the one I saw advertising earlier, but at least it will give you an idea of what's available...;)

http://bulletproofsteering.com/pitmanarms.html

Good Luck...;)

[Jeep4ME]

Here's a local company that can likely help you... http://benchworksteering.com/

Since they are local, I'm betting they can help you personally get to the bottom of your issue and come up with a solution...


Also... here's one of the shops that build custom pitman arms (among many other things for steering)... Not the one I saw advertising earlier, but at least it will give you an idea of what's available...;)

http://bulletproofsteering.com/pitmanarms.html

Good Luck...;)


Thanks for the info, you've been very helpfull.

[rvisokey]

Yep on YJ's there are more springs in the back. This is for preventing spring wrap.

Don

My YJ has more packs in front that rear. Neighbors stock YJ is the same way?:confused: :confused:

[ob1jeeper]

My YJ has more packs in front that rear. Neighbors stock YJ is the same way?:confused: :confused:
While rear spring wrap is certianly an issue for severe throttle, and/or articulation issues, the FRONT springs are typically subjected to more spring wrap issues from heavy braking, than the rear will see during launch OR braking. (Which, BTW; is the reason for the pinion snubber on the front axle, or in some cases they actually were placed behind the axle and reacted on the springs themselves... All to help control torsional wind-up or srping wrap, or whatever you want to call it, during heavy braking...)

The added leafs in the rear have less to do with spring wrap than in load carrying capacity... The main reson for more leves in the rear is because the rear is where a high percentage of the vehicles additive loading (passengers, cargo, etc) are applied to the suspension... (unless of course you start adding snow plows, heavy winches, etc., up front. There was indeed a snow plow package factory spec'd. as an optional suspension available for many years of CJ/YJ production...provided your dealers sales staff knew enough to check the correct boxes for you...)

FWIW: I know of NO OEM suspension option for the YJ, in which the front spring pack came with more leafs than the rear... I won't go so far as to say unequivocably that there wasn't an oddball option pkg out there in which this was the case... I'm just not personally aware of any...

Hope this helps clarify...Good Luck...;)

[Jeep4ME]

I used to run Superlift 3.5" springs on my YJ. The pitman arm did contact the tie rod but it was really just more of a rubbing. It did not cause any problems. I say run what you have and see if it's really a problem before trying to fix it.

BTW, 5 leafs in back and 4 leafs in front is correct for a YJ.

Were you running the stock shackles up front?

I currently have factory shackles up front with custom ones in back. I'm thinking about making a set of new shackles that are 3/4 longer for the front that will give me about 3/8" lift up front and that might be enough to provide the needed clearance.

[ob1jeeper]

I'm thinking about making a set of new shackles that are 3/4 longer for the front that will give me about 3/8" lift up front and that might be enough to provide the needed clearance.
A lift via shackles may allow it to clear statically, but under articulation/flex, it's still gonna be in contact...;)

[cptmax]

My YJ has more packs in front that rear. Neighbors stock YJ is the same way?:confused: :confused:

This has been my experience. I may be wrong.. will do research...

[Jeep4ME]

A lift via shackles may allow it to clear statically, but under articulation/flex, it's still gonna be in contact...;)

Right now the Pitman arm is contacting the tie rod at about the same time my bump stop is contacting the axle under articulation. With about 1/4" to 3/8" more clearance I think I can prevent the pitman arm from hitting hard.


Of course this is negating some of the effect of the dropped pitman arm. On the flip side this is making more room for my soon to be acquired 35" BFG's.

[roger]

Were you running the stock shackles up front?

I currently have factory shackles up front with custom ones in back. I'm thinking about making a set of new shackles that are 3/4 longer for the front that will give me about 3/8" lift up front and that might be enough to provide the needed clearance.

I ran 1" lift (so 2" longer) shackles when I was running he Superlift springs.

[roger]

Right now the Pitman arm is contacting the tie rod at about the same time my bump stop is contacting the axle under articulation. With about 1/4" to 3/8" more clearance I think I can prevent the pitman arm from hitting hard.

Of course this is negating some of the effect of the dropped pitman arm. On the flip side this is making more room for my soon to be acquired 35" BFG's.

Note that the longer shackles will actually give you a bit more flex as they will allow the ends of the springs to travel in a larger arc.

FWIW, when I ran the Superlift springs, I also had 1" lift shackles, a 1" body lift, and trimmed out fenders with TJ flares. I also ran Dana 44 axles that had shorter spring perches which, in a SUA configuration, got me about 1/2" of lift. With all of that, I fit 35" tires on my YJ fairly well.

[Jeep4ME]

Note that the longer shackles will actually give you a bit more flex as they will allow the ends of the springs to travel in a larger arc.

FWIW, when I ran the Superlift springs, I also had 1" lift shackles, a 1" body lift, and trimmed out fenders with TJ flares. I also ran Dana 44 axles that had shorter spring perches which, in a SUA configuration, got me about 1/2" of lift. With all of that, I fit 35" tires on my YJ fairly well.

Thanks for the input on your lift. I was wondering how much lift I was going to need to get 35's under me and you answered that. I've been keeping an eye out for a set of used TJ flares on the cheap so I can do a little trimming like you did to help in the clearance area.