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John92YJ
03-25-2007, 08:53 PM
My 92 YJ 2.5 clutch doesn't seem right. I burned it up pretty good on predator, Junky said it was smoking good. Anyways it lets out at different spots, sometimes its in the middle and sometimes its at the floor. I haven't noticed it slipping but it just doesn't seem right. Info please and if I need a new one some help would be much appreciated.

ademster
03-25-2007, 10:09 PM
buy a centerforce clutch... they are out of Prescot... very good clutches.

the dual friction plates ar ebest

SavageSun4x4
03-26-2007, 09:58 AM
LuK builds the OEM clutches for Jeep and I recommend that or if available use the LuK Gold series.

www.luk.com

John92YJ
03-26-2007, 03:59 PM
so i need a new clutch? Today it worked fine, I don't understand why it works sometimes and then there times when it seems like it's going to go out any min.
My clutch fluid is full but how do I now if my hydraulic pump is working right?

SHNIPE
03-26-2007, 04:27 PM
If you need one. Get the luk gold from dial a clutch.com Theyre the cheapest around. I slip the crap out of mine as is and have no issues with it. could take it down to 4wheelers and have em check it before you go buying a bunch of crap you wont need

John92YJ
03-26-2007, 09:31 PM
come on Jeep brothers, help me out, need to know if i 'm going to break down or not. AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Allen
03-26-2007, 11:06 PM
could be somthing is wrong with the master or slave cylinder! I got air in the lines and the cluch got a little weird! There was nothing wrong with the cluch itself, just the hydraulics. It finally failed and the clutch went to the floor!

In that case it is possible to pull a fuse and start it in gear, and speed shift it!

But not everyone can do that!!

GLEN REAMS
03-27-2007, 02:13 AM
come on Jeep brothers, help me out, need to know if i 'm going to break down or not. AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

your fine you wont break down :D just trying to tell ya what you wana hear, but other than that i have no idea this is why i drive a auto :D:D:D:D:D

TRLR8TDTJ
03-27-2007, 08:14 AM
I would bleed slave cylinder before you do anything. On top of slave cylinder loosen bleeder and let it run out for bit. Dont let it run out of fluid just little at time then see what happens. I changed mine at 103000 miles and it still had a lot of life left in it. I used to smoke it all the time before the 4 to 1 so I thought it was about done.

Kyle

xjstocker
03-27-2007, 08:36 AM
if you slip it a lot you can boil the fluid and cause release issues. bleed it and check operation again. if it doesnt slip while driving and its the pedal you are concerned with then it is probibly the hydralics not the clutch

John92YJ
03-27-2007, 03:29 PM
Alright this is what i wanted to here, thanks all.

rockr
03-27-2007, 08:23 PM
probably gonna find you need a new clutch if you burned it out that bad plus if it is the original 92 clutch it may be time anyways. LUK is all i run and they are good.

John92YJ
03-28-2007, 03:14 PM
probably gonna find you need a new clutch if you burned it out that bad plus if it is the original 92 clutch it may be time anyways. LUK is all i run and they are good.

the clutch is almost brand new only about 3 to 4,000 mils on it. The Jeep has 130,000 and still runs strong.

rockr
03-28-2007, 03:32 PM
the clutch is almost brand new only about 3 to 4,000 mils on it. The Jeep has 130,000 and still runs strong.

ah well in that case, i doubt you burned it up in just one day (but it IS possible). did you bleed some old fluid out yet? you can always suck out the fluid from the reservoir and put in new...............work the clutch and repeat a few times till you get a bit of new fluid in the system.

John92YJ
03-28-2007, 04:04 PM
anybody want to help bleed my clutch

John92YJ
03-28-2007, 06:03 PM
well I just went under my jeep and the hose coming from the master to the tranny is just hanging there, I don't think its supposed to be able to move in and out of my tranny. I can probably pull it out 2 to 3in not good right?

rockr
03-28-2007, 06:30 PM
well I just went under my jeep and the hose coming from the master to the tranny is just hanging there, I don't think its supposed to be able to move in and out of my tranny. I can probably pull it out 2 to 3in not good right?

ummmmmmmmmm, not that i know of. you have an internal slave right? the line goes into the bellhouse and connects to the slave/throwout bearing unit as a single assembly. you should also have another line coming back out the housing from the assembly for bleeding. the bearing goes around the tranny input shaft and is held in place with a retaining nut.

being able to tug on one or both of the lines with 2-3 inches of play does not sound possible to my memory of my clutch experiences. something sounds wrong right there.

wouldn't hurt to open the bleeder and have someone press on the clutch to see how much fluid comes out and if there is any air in the system like bleeding brakes. i forgot that you probably have a bleeder line unlike me..........i have a NV3550 out of a 2000 TJ which has no bleeder:confused:

at least you are getting to the root of the problem eventually. keep working at it and you will get it fixed:)

John92YJ
03-28-2007, 08:33 PM
so can i get to it with out dropping my tranny

John92YJ
03-28-2007, 08:39 PM
it is an internal slave

rockr
03-28-2007, 09:21 PM
so can i get to it with out dropping my tranny

no, you have to pull the tranny to access the slave and throwout bearing assembly.

John92YJ
03-29-2007, 10:08 AM
that really sucks, Thanks for all the help.

John92YJ
03-30-2007, 05:43 PM
This is what i was told to do, and I would like to have someone there that knows what there doing so I don't make it worse than it is.
I did my brakes one time and it didn't go to well.


1. Fill the master cylinder with DOT3 brake fluid(New Fluid)

2. Set parking brake. And block the tires.

3. Get an old 20oz coke/pepsi bottle and fill it 1/2 way with new fluid.

4. Drill a hole in the cap of the bottle large enough for a hose to fit through.

5. Get some hose that will fit over the bleeder screw make sure it is a snug fit so it wont come off. They sell all sizes and will cut it to the length that you need at Autozone.

6. Stick the other end of the hose into the bottle make sure that it is down in the fluid.

7. Have someone else push and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. (Do Not Let Them Pump The Pedal)

8. You open the bleeder screw on the p-side of the tranny and allow the fluid/bubbles escape until the bubbles stop. The assistant should notice that the pedal has little or no resistance, this is ok.

9. Shut the bleeder screw and the let the assistant release the pedal.

10. Check the level of the master cylinder after the pedal is released fill if necessary keep the level about 1/4 from the top to ensure you don't suck in any air.

11. Repeat steps 7-10 until no bubbles are present. I would recommend that after the last time you see bubbles repeat it 5 time more to make sure.

12. Check the level of fluid one more time.

I hope this helps the reason that I have you in bold as the one doing the work is that way you don't have to explain it to someone else and run the risk that they do it wrong. Make sure that you are careful when you open the bleeder so you don't round it off the metal is very soft. When you are all done and you drive it the first few time the pedal may feel a little soft...it will get stronger so don't worry. If you need anything else do not hesitate to ask.

knockonit
03-31-2007, 07:14 PM
Gravity bleed it first, it'll save a lot of pumping, fill the master cylinder and watch it drain with the bleeder open with a hose into a catch bucket,pan whatever, once it is a good steady stream,drip, close the bleeder off , fill the reservoir and then cap it and pump the unit for the last bit of air.
saves a lot of footwork.
good luck
rj

John92YJ
04-09-2007, 04:54 PM
now I know why no one wanted to help with the bleeding. I did it today and it was pretty easy, unless I did it wrong. Thanks for all the help.