steering knuckle hole is too big

[jeepcrd2010]

my steering knuckle hole is too big.
Do you have a recommendation for shop that can redrill the hole or replace knuckle?:confused:

After the the knuckle hole is good what tie rod kit to you recomend?

It is a daily driver so tire ware driving this repair.

bone Stock TJ with 31x10.5x15 no lift

[ob1jeeper]

Which "hole" are you trying to describe? The one for the ball joints? Or one for steering linkages?

If it's the one for the ball joints, depending on how badly damaged it is, it MAY require a different housing... (unless you're REALLY handy with fabrication, it will be considerably less expensive to replace the whole housing, as opposed to replacing the forged knuckle...)

[xFallen]

my steering knuckle hole is too big.
Do you have a recommendation for shop that can redrill the hole or replace knuckle?:confused:

After the the knuckle hole is good what tie rod kit to you recomend?

It is a daily driver so tire ware driving this repair.

bone Stock TJ with 31x10.5x15 no lift

How did the hole get "too big"? If this is a new to you vehicle maybe the hole is already set up for some preferred non-stock tie rod configuration. The holes are tapered as required for the tapered TREs used. That means you simply cannot have them drilled. They need to be reamed with a tapered reamer of the correct taper which is 1.5" per foot for these TREs.

The stock TREs are the same taper as most popular joints but they are smaller diameter. The larger diameter ends are preferred because they are stronger and most used in 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton applications, hence references by people to 1 ton TREs. Chevy and Toyota FJ TREs are also a common choice.

Going back to stock may not be possible with stock TREs without changing the knuckle. That task is a fairly easy undertaking. May as well replace the ball joints while you are in there.

Depending on your issue with the current setup and where you want to end up, you may be best served by having a tie rod fabricated. It is very easy to do yourself, but also very economical to have done by most shops. 1.5" x 0.25" wall DOM steel tube with some quality TREs will be fairly economical (~$100-$150) and be extremely durable. You can even do the stock link configuration to retain current geometry, or change it if you wish, as the TREs are available for whatever you might require.


Barry

[ThumpAZ]

You asked for a reccommendation...
DesertFab can do whatever needs to be done for your axle. Whether it be new knuckles, inner c's, to reaming and fabrication of a new heavy-duty tie rod with ends. You can also get a high-steer setup for your rig and avoid many of the instances where you'll be rigging a hi-lift between the housing and tie rod to straighten the smile :)