won't start?

[Sundvl-88YJ]

Won't start. Turns over but won't catch. I can smell fuel, didn't want to flood it. Have always had to pump it three times and hold the pedal on floor, the last time for it to run. Usually only happens after it sits for a few. Hard starts at morning and night. Would being cool do anything?

Anyone have a clue whats going on? Figured I'd start here, you guys are good.

Please help.



When is the next meet & greet in the Phx area, i still owe lunch to someone.

Thanks

[Sedona Jeep School]

Have you replaced the distributor cap, plugs & wires recently?

[OlneyJeeps]

I always carry can of starter fluid because it is great diagnostic tool: good shot down the carb/throttle body.... if it starts, the problem is fuel delivery (unless really flooded, will usually dry plugs enough to start)... if it dosent, is ignition prob.

If you have the carb version, take your ignition module (driver side inner fender, 3 bolts) to pep boys/autozone and have it tested. the newer models (88+) have square plug which testers are NOT plug and test... the tester has to read manual and connect leads to connections. Because the boxes do go bad, I carry (actually mounted next to primary) spare box. A couple of weeks ago I helped "Iamtheonewho" convert his over to HEI... surprisingly easy and super cool.

[Sundvl-88YJ]

started right up this morning. Idles hard wants to bog when i run it around the parking lot. I think somethings up w/ the carb.

Had the carb rebuilt and did an entire tuneup in dec.

How well does that carb cleaner work? - Would it being dirty cause all my problems?

thanks

[OlneyJeeps]

does it bog or just die out? once again I recommend you have your ignition module checked... the motocraft is a multistage module: start,idle, accelerate, high rpm stages. It is common for one stage to work, and another not work. Unfortuneatly your version (with square plug) is much more expensive ($50 or so) than earlier version (15-25). Although I know there is a difference ( uses different program to check), I believe the newer version can be replaced (minor re wiring) with the earlier version (they both use the same distributor).

bottom line get yours checked. If the "tech"/parts guy dosent think he can, read the book/manual (manufactured by WELLS)... more difficult than plug in, but it can be done.

Carb cleaner (spray can down carb while running at 40% throttle) will clean plugs and valves (I do every now and then, expecially before emissions). Start fluid is much better starting catalyst.

[Sundvl-88YJ]

bogs when driving dies when idling.

[ob1jeeper]

The "bogs down when driving" USUALLY is an accelerator pump related issue... The "dies when idling" USUALLY is an issue with idle air/fuel mixture. On the BBD's this idle die-out was problematic, and requires a cleaning of the internal idle fuel usually, but sometimes also the idle air passageways. The accelerator pump will not last forever, and can easily be replaced during a rebuild.

If your version of a carb cleaning /rebuild has been to squirt it with the over the counter carb cleaner cans, you've wasted your money, unless your only objective was to clean the exterior surfaces.

Proper carb re-builds require that your take them apart, clean the internal passageways of build up of unwanted clogging materials, and replace worn/damaged internal compontents that may cause the carb to operate in a manner other than intended, then re-setting of all adjustable parameters to fit your location and installation uses (slightly different for autos VS manuals for instance). Isn't rocket science, and MOST carb kits come with decent assembly instructions.

IF you're using starting fluid, BE CAREFUL with how much of it you're squirting about. Due to thit's volatility, during ignition it can create combustion chamber pressures far in excess of what the motor is designed for, and you could possibly end up with damaged motor. Have seen bent connecting rods, broken pistons, and blown head gaskets all as a result of using too much of the starting juice. A VERY light spritz is all you shoud EVER use, and ONLY in VERY cold situation where the fuel is not evaporating quickly to form a combustible mixture. Or perhaps as olney has said as a diagnostic tool (although I'm not clear what you would be diagnosing with its use, as EITHER a weak spark or poor fuel delivery could be masked by use of starting fluids).

I'm pretty doubtful you have a module issue. Start by ruling out the simple and most likely things first... Like the carb. You began this narrative with words to the effect of having to fully cycle the accelerator three times, then holding the accelerator to the floor, before it would start, which from your wording seems that you've "been doing" for some period of time.

This tells me that the carb choke and/or idle systems at a minimum are not functioning properly... Start with a FULL and proper rebuild or replacement of a properly repaired and set-up carb...:) ;)

JMHO... Good Luck...:) ;)

[Sundvl-88YJ]

figured it out! There WERE two screws that you would use to adjust the carb. There is a long one and a short one. Well the short one is missing!

Can I use any screw that will fit?

Ill try and post up a pic if i can find one online.

[OlneyJeeps]

2bbl carb?

are the screws idle mix screws or speed screws or ?

[Mike McGreevy]

you should be able to go to a parts store and get the needle valve. sometimes u have to buy a complete rebuild kit to get it, ask for just the valve....take in the numbers off your carb... they will be on the side or top of the carb depending on the make, sometimes there is a medal tag with the info bolted on the carb.... tell them what u need..u'll also need the spring that goes on the needle valve to keep it from backing out...to adjust that carb afterwards.....screw in the valve and !!!!!LIGHTLY!!!!!! tighten... back it out about 3 full turns..... start the jeep....know with wd40, spray it into the carb intake....if the engin reves then open the valve 1/2 turn and keep doing that till it stops reveing....it the engin trys to die when u spray the wd40 then it is to rich and turn the valve 1/2 closed and try again.... this will get u close to setting the carb, I've ran them this way for years...but if ur jeep needs to be emissions tested then take it to a shop after that to tune it in all the way

[benA]

figured it out! There WERE two screws that you would use to adjust the carb. There is a long one and a short one. Well the short one is missing!

Can I use any screw that will fit?

Ill try and post up a pic if i can find one online.

I know a site where they sell cheap jeep auto parts (http://www.jpartsonline.com/). I buy mine there too for a reasonable price. Maybe there you can find a replacement on any auto part that you need... ;)