Pinion Shaft Yoke

[desertdawg]

Since I broke the yoke on the rear Dana 44 pinion shaft today, I was wondering if there's a heavier duty replacement for it.

Is this pretty much a do it yourself job replacing the yoke?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!:)

[AZXJ]

You can run a bigger yoke and a combo ujoint in the driveshaft.

you can replace yourself if you have a good air gun..

[desertdawg]

Does that involve modifying the driveshaft?

What's the cost on doing something like that?

[jbjarko]

I would think it would cost under 100 bucks for a new yoke and a u-joint. Maybe I am wrong.

[RokNRich]

Not really what you are asking, but I broke the yoke on the D44 in my Scout a few years back. Got one in a junk yard for about $35. Easy fix (replaced the ujoint at the same time).

BTW, good pic's out there in the snow, looks like it was cold........

[AZXJ]

Does that involve modifying the driveshaft?

What's the cost on doing something like that?

No you just run a combo u-joint. 1310-1350(I think) numbers aren't sticking in the brain tonight..

parts your probablly looking at 50 to 60 bucks.. looking at 1/2 hr. labor

[xFallen]

There are both cast and forged versions of the pinion yoke. Obviously, the forged version is stronger and likely more expensive. That's the one to get. I would suggest the u-bolt style rather than the strap style so long as you use a torque wrench and understand how to properly tighten the u-bolt. They are stronger and more reliable than the cheesey straps.

If you're a close enough sort of guy, forget it, because you will ruin the bearings in the u-joint. Rumor has it that's why Spicer doesn't like to sell them. Too much grief because too many people don't use a torque wrench.


Barry

[jbjarko]

BTW, good pic's out there in the snow, looks like it was cold........


It actually wasn't bad at all. Wasn't a wet cold like it has been down here...

[danno]

If you're a close enough sort of guy, forget it, because you will ruin the bearings in the u-joint. Rumor has it that's why Spicer doesn't like to sell them. Too much grief because too many people don't use a torque wrench.
Barry

Barry, any idea what the proper torque is on a 1310 ubolt?

[PMFG!ItsaGP]

There are both cast and forged versions of the pinion yoke. Obviously, the forged version is stronger and likely more expensive. That's the one to get. I would suggest the u-bolt style rather than the strap style so long as you use a torque wrench and understand how to properly tighten the u-bolt. They are stronger and more reliable than the cheesey straps.

If you're a close enough sort of guy, forget it, because you will ruin the bearings in the u-joint. Rumor has it that's why Spicer doesn't like to sell them. Too much grief because too many people don't use a torque wrench.


BarryIIRC the torque spec is 15 ft lbs. And yes, over torque will chew the hell out of the needle bearings. I was doing 55 MPH down US 60 when mine decided they had enough.

*edit*
From here (http://www.dickmillerracing.com/Driveshaft_page.htm)
DO NOT re-torque the u-bolts on the diff yoke weekly. Set the initial torque at 12-15 lbs. The prevailing torque nuts provide with our yoke need never to be re-torqued. Over tightening of the u-bolts will cause the u-joint caps to become out of round and needle failure and extreme heat will happen. The result is a failed u-joint and perhaps a driveshaft coming out of your car at 8000 RPM!! This can make quite a mess and on occasion has been the cause of a crash. A driveshaft coming out is like a hand grenade going off under your right elbow & normally dents or takes out the floor pan.

[danno]

Yep, I have WAY over torqued my U-bolts.

It makes common sense that this would cause problems with the needle bearings. Just didn't occur to me when I tightened it... Funny because I am so persnickety when it comes to torqueing bolts properly.

I plan on replacing my u-joint ASAP and torqueing it properly.

I have been trying to diagnose a squeak coming from the rear DS for a while now, and I bet that this is it.

[xFallen]

Barry, any idea what the proper torque is on a 1310 ubolt?

Yeah about 15 lb-ft maximum as in the post from J. I have seen them fail within minutes of over torque.

Last time I went to buy one they were on back order. I need to check with Simon to see if they're in. Apparently they come with wings or feet or something because he told me he can't keep them on the shelf. Weird.


Barry

[YJINAZ]

Currie sells a cast iron yoke that is supposed to be stronger.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/CEStore/productsre.aspx?id=1489

Nope I quess was Tom Woods has steel ones not iron but don't see it on their web site. It is on page 19 of March's JP magazine.

[desertfabmotors]

I have used yoke's here at the shop, u-bolt style. :)

[roger]

Mike,

Did the yoke fail due to torque load or did you just hit the shaft on the waterfall? If the latter, I wouldn't worry about beefing up the yoke because that's probably an infrequent event. And I'm thinking that makes a nice weak link. (I'm assuming the driveshaft and its yoke were undamaged.)