blooddrive
01-04-2004, 09:00 AM
37227-37251
37227 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:30am
Subject: [FS] 2- 35x12.50x15 Big O AT
Price: $200
Contact: Nathaniel 623-535-7735 bnateaz@hotmail.com
Pair of these of my dad's pickup less than 7000 miles on them I can get them mounted and the warranty transferred over. They have a lifetime warranty on any kind of damage.
nathaniel larson
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
37228 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 0:33pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
To: AZ_VJC
Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it seemed
that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more than
the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side bracket
is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
TIA
--James
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
37229 From: dan bistany <dandamanx1@y...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 0:50pm
Subject: Wanted: 89 YJ shifter assembly
Does anyone have the shifter and all of the components
to go along with it...I need the pieces that connect
it to the tranny. I am Willing to come and pick them
up. Pick a reasonable price.
Thanks
Dan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
37230 From: Kevin <nau88xj@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:29pm
Subject: Re: Custom made pipe benders
there would probably be more interest in a TUBE bender than a PIPE bender.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rrichards13" <rrichards13@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: [az_vjc] Custom made pipe benders
| Hey guys, I just thought I would see if any of you would be
| interested in custom made pipe benders(wouldn't it be great to have
| your own bender). I will say this..These benders will hardly take
| space in your garage and their on wheels for easy moving.
| I will post another email later today when I take pictures of a
| bender and get all the important info on them.
| MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!
|
| Randy
| 99Tj
|
|
|
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
37231 From: jeep357cab <Kilr650@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:32pm
Subject: My Jeep was stolen!
Well actually it was my brother's Jeep. But I feel just as bad as
if it was my own. It was stolen from his apartment complex at
First/Prince area in Tucson. Just in case any one might see it here
are the particulars:
'94 Grand Cherokee Laredo
VIN# 1J4GZ5853RC298749
AZ License # LBL 433
color: Champagne
Jeep is completely stock. Currently has two stock size Pirelli
Norsman tires at one end and two Bridgestone Desert Duelers at the
other both mounted on factory alloy wheels. The spare is a new
Pirelli Norsman mounted on a white "wagon wheel" and kept inside
vehicle.
If seen please call 911 and e-mail me or call.
TIA
Eddie Nordstrom
520-444-1921 cell
'98 TJ
37232 From: Chris Krieg <rv6a@m...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:22pm
Subject: Re: TJ Torque spec needed
Stu,
No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
him go to your website?
The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
factory TSM.
See how much easier that was.
Chris K
On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: AZ_VJC
> Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
>
> I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
>
> FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> seemed
> that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> than
> the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> bracket
> is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
>
> TIA
>
> --James
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37233 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:36pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
Chris,
No offense taken. Why did I do it?
Because I can point James to the spot where that info and other similar
information is sitting. Then, when he wants to know the torque spec for the
upper arms or a track bar, he doesn't have to post and wait for an answer
because he will already know where to find it.
I trust that didn't sound like a stupid answer?
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Krieg [mailto:rv6a@m...]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 4:22 PM
To: Stu Olson
Cc: 'James Towle'; 'AZ_VJC'
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
Stu,
No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
him go to your website?
The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
factory TSM.
See how much easier that was.
Chris K
On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: AZ_VJC
> Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
>
> I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
>
> FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> seemed
> that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> than
> the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> bracket
> is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
>
> TIA
>
> --James
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37234 From: James Towle <James.Towle@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:39pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
Thanks Stu & Chris,
I don't mind too much reading Stu's web page. It helped learn I ought to be
taking my own advice, to read Stu's web page.
On sort of the same subject:
Since replacing the bushings in the front LCA's and adding the new/used Tera
UCA's with new bushings. The steering wheel is now pointed to the left. It
seems to me since I installed the lift originally, more specifically over
the last 6 months, I have had to adjust the steering. I am wondering if my
adjusting the steering 6 months ago was chasing the bushings going out or if
I created a new problem doing this work on the control arms. I guess the
bigger question, maybe FlexyXJ knows, should I go in and get an alignment?
Any help?
--James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Krieg [mailto:rv6a@m...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 4:22 PM
> To: Stu Olson
> Cc: 'James Towle'; 'AZ_VJC'
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
> Stu,
> No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
> him go to your website?
>
> The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
> factory TSM.
> See how much easier that was.
>
> Chris K
>
> On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
>
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
> >
> > Stu Olson
> > www.stu-offroad.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> > Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> > To: AZ_VJC
> > Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
> >
> >
> >
> > I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
> >
> > FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> > seemed
> > that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> > than
> > the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> > bracket
> > is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --James
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
37235 From: Joe W <arizonajeep@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 4:33pm
Subject: Thanks Scott Kruize!
Just a quick note to thank Scott and Theresa for the help today on the Jeep.
We replaced my stock 297x U-joints with 760x U-joints on my trail spare
axles. Then Scott tack welded the caps on my rig and my spare axles to keep
the caps from turning.
Thanks Scott and Theresa.
PS Burny the dachshund is doing great... except he just pooped on my Den
floor. <grin>
Joe and Joyce West
37236 From: <sharxjeep@c...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:12pm
Subject: TJ carriers needed
Looking for a set carriers for d30 and d35 4:10s, have gears just need stock carriers for a friend.
Sharky
37237 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 6:30pm
Subject: [FS] Chrome Tube bumpers
Price: $150.00
Contact: dsckthomas@uswest.net
Front and rear chrome tube bumpers off of my
CJ7. Will clean up and look pretty good. All
I want is $150.00 for the pair, just to get
rid of them.
Dennis Thomas
37238 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 8:46pm
Subject: Re: Rebuild kit for np231
People do claim that those chains stretch. I recently replaced mine
(in my '93 YJ) but when I held the new one up to the old one, there
wasn't much difference. Maybe a tiny bit of difference makes a big
difference?
-Roger
Beckham, Michael wrote:
>
> My motivation is merely to fix the horrible rattle, which was diagnosed by
> AAMCO as my transfer case chain. Sounds like slapping the chain across cast
> aluminum......though JW thinks it is the trans. I myself admit to ignorance
> (different from stupidity) and when I took it to them for an estimate, got
> it back re-sealed with the advice I fix the chain, as it does stretch after
> much hard-core use. any reasonable comments?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Tomas [mailto:tomasr@a...]
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 3:28 PM
> To: Beckham, Michael
> Cc: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Rebuild kit for np231
>
> I've never heard of a rebuild kit although that doesn't mean they don't
> exist. But I have heard of people replacing the chain. And, of course,
> I've heard of SYE kits that replace the main shaft, 4:1 kits that replace
> the front half of the case as well as the reduction gears, and 2lo kits
> that replace the range selector parts (don't remember what they're called).
> I've done all of these.
>
> I don't know what your motivation is or what such a kit would cost, but
> it might be worth doing one or more of the above upgrades and getting
> some improved capability at the same time.
>
> -Roger
>
> "Beckham, Michael" wrote:
> >
> > Is there a rebuild kit for an NP231 transfer case? I'd like a do-it-all
> one
> > purchase kit if possible.....
37239 From: DougB <azjeep@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 8:46pm
Subject: Tommy Brown virus
Got a note from Tommy Brown...had attachments...had a virus.
Tommy - please clean your system.
Thanks,
Doug
37240 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:07pm
Subject: Don't open np231 message
Don't open the message attachment on the np231 rebuild kit message. It is a virus.
Nick
37241 From: Mike & Karen Acuna <macunasprint@e...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:35pm
Subject: OT[Fwd: Highly Recommended by Mike Acuna]
From: macunasprint@e...
To: macunasprint@e...
Subject: Highly Recommended by Mike Acuna
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:35:29 -0800 (PST)
Hi,
Mike Acuna would like you to see this Web page:
Fun Flash - The Tellie-Targets Game
(By MadBlast)
Click below to see this page and to join the MadBlast mailing list:
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================================================
The flowgo.com mail referral system is meant to be used exclusively as a way to forward preferred pages to friends.
One of your friends sent this email through our website.
Friend's name: Mike Acuna
Friend's IP address: 172.16.1.251
Date and Time: 12/15/01 20:33:28 PM Pacific
If you feel this email was sent to you in error, or you do not know the friend you are receiving emails from, please notify us at:
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37242 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 0:04am
Subject: [FS] For Sale 1977 Cherokee
Price: $6,000OBO
Contact: Travis or Thell Carpenter (602)841-4211or t_dog55@hotmail.com
Strong running 360 with edlebroc intake and 4barrel carb. MSD Ignition. Auto Tranny and Quadra trans case. 33X12.50 Tires with lots of tread. Great daily driver or an excellent trail rig. Hate to sell her but have decided to buy CJ-5.
Travis Carpenter
37243 From: DesertJeep <joey@d...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 1:01am
Subject: RE: Prefix Suggestion
I got another one.
[JM] = Junk eMail
Joey K
> -----Original Message-----
> From: neder13 [mailto:azvjc@a...]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:26 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] Prefix Suggestion
>
>
> We have the following prefixes in use for the AzVJC mailing list:
>
> [TR] = Trail Run
> [LU] = Land Use
> [FS] = For Sale
> [OT] = Off Topic
> (did I miss any?)
>
> May I suggest one more?
>
> [MB] = More Banter
>
> This way when the thread runs completely off topic instead of having
>
> "Some Newer Subject WAS: Some New Subject WAS: Some Old Subject WAS:
> Some Older Subject..." we can just change the subject line to "[MB]
> Old Subject Line"
>
> Of course we could then also have [MUB] or More Useless Banter... ;)
>
> - Mike
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37244 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:08am
Subject: Heaters misc.
With winter coming up and all.....
I'm sure a lot of guys aren't too impressed with the performance of their
heaters now that the chill is setting in. In summer my rig is hot enough
that you can fry an egg even if you just open the vent. Come winter it
doesn't even warm up for a good 15 minutes worth of driving. In line with
the recent message on insulation, I was trying to think where the engine is
losing all it's heat from. Obviously the radiator is the main source of
loss (and rightly so!), but what about loss of heat between the engine and
the heater coil? Has anyone thought of insulating the water hoses and the
coil housing itself? I'm sure it would offer some improvement. I'm going
to try insulating all my hoses with copper foil, then with electricians
tape, then with a thick material tape. I guess I'll remove it all in the
spring. Has anyone else got any ideas on improving the heaters
performance? I went as far as to consider putting a household heater in my
jeep. I've got an 800 watt electrical inverter, so I figured I'd be set,
but after looking at the labels on average heaters, a lot of them use over
2,000 watts, and even the little weeny ones start from about 900watts....
no wonder my heating bill goes up so much in winter. That's about the same
amount of power required to run 4 refrigerators!
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37245 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:01am
Subject: insulating/soundproofing/windproofing
Hi Gang,
Has anyone out there had any luck in terms of
insulating/soundproofing/windproofing their rig? My jeep is pretty noisy
and lets in it's fair share of wind which is annoying in two ways; it's
pretty noisy and it gets chilly in winter. It's a soft top but there's a
hard top over the driver/passenger that is well insulated and
soundproofed. I obviously can't do much about the soft top's noise, but
that doesn't bother me a lot. The biggest problem is air whistling around
the doors and windows. The seals are not very good. The windows are of
the removable type; they slot into the door, so their really isn't
much to 'push' them against the frame, they just sort of flop around a
bit. I've seen 3M weather stripping around in some pretty think sizes and
thought I might have a go at using that to replace my door seals. i did
consider putting some sort of spring loaded locking lever at the top of the
window to pull it into the frame, but figured it would just be a pain in
the *** and I'd never use it. Does anyone else have this style of window?
In terms of over all soundproofing (engine noise and road noise) has anyone
tried the rubberized under body sprays? Paint shops will apply it over
here for just $50, not much to lose if it doesn't work out, but are there
any downsides to it? Will it offer any improvements in terms of reducing
noise or reducing heat loss by insulation? Has anyone applied some sort of
insulation to either their firewall, engine bay or doors to improve
soundproofing? Am I better off just sticking with ear plugs?
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37246 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:24am
Subject: Wheel stud repair?
The studs (or bolts) that hold the wheel onto the jeep have been snapped
off. It's a long story, but it started out when the previous owner changed
a flat and only did up three of the six bolts tightly. The others somehow
binded, and when he tried to undo them one neatly snapped off. I bought
the car like this, and though it bothered me, I didn't think it was an
enormous problem. I do no high speed driving, and there were still 5 studs
left. I figured I'd get around to it some day. I changed my tires on the
weekend and when they did up the wheel nuts 2 more studs came loose leaving
only 3 nuts holding the wheel on! To make matters worse, they are not
evenly spaced, two are on one side and one on the other. I made a brief
examination of it, the brake disk and the part the studs are on are all a
one piece item. The studs are welded to the carrier. Is there a possible
fix here, or am I looking at replacing the entire part? It's a little
pricey, maybe $200~$300, so I'd really like to do a fix if possible. I
haven't driven the rig since yesterday for fear of something going amiss.
I'd really appreciate a prompt response, I have to think about transport
for work......
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37247 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:18am
Subject: diesel starting problem solved
I'd been having a lot of trouble starting my rig this past month. It just
runs a little 2.2l 4 cyl diesel. It used to start the first cranking, then
it needed 2, then 3, then 4, till it got to the point that I'd be sitting
there in the morning, cranking like mad for a good ten minutes almost
draining my battery flat, pumping away on the gas peddle and sending my
neighbours insane. Not the best way to start the morning. Once it had
been started and run for a while it would start first go again as long as I
didn;t leave ot turned off for more than a few hours. Once it got cold it
would be a right bugger to start again.
I'd just put it down to cold and resigned myself to having a very long
winter. Someone on the group mentioned that glowplugs are important, so I
got myself down to a mechanic I know and trust. Glowplugs preheat the fuel
to help it ignite when conditions are cold. He said that there are a lot
of glowplugs available from different manufacturers, and that the OEM items
are generally crap. He recommended a brand that was made in Japan by an
aftermarked company (sorry, forgot the name) which were about double the
price of the OEM item, about $US10 each. This guy has never steered me
wrong, so I handed over my $40 (1 for each cylinder). This was about 2
weeks ago, and temperatures have been dropping and dropping. The jeep has
kicked over on the first revolution every morning without hesitation.
As an aside, he mentioned to me that glowplugs are controlled by a time
based relay. When the key is set to the 'on' position they turn on for
5~10 seconds and then turn back off again. This is so they wouldn't burn
out if you left your key in 'on' without starting your car. He says the
best thing to do is first turn the key to 'on', wait 5 seconds and then
start the engine. It gives the plugs a few seconds to start warming up.
Hope this helps somebody out there..... an inexpensive fix that gave a
massive improvement.
Shaun
South Korea
37248 From: J & P Visic <jpvisic@n...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:40am
Subject: Re: diesel starting problem solved
Shaun,
What is it you drive? Diesel with a half hard top? Just curious. I have
no help for you on the insulation and noise. I'm still trying to find a way
to keep the screws in my hard top to windshield frame from falling out on my
CJ-7.
John
Casa Grande
----- Original Message -----
From: "imagineero" <imagineero@x...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 5:18 AM
Subject: [az_vjc] diesel starting problem solved
> I'd been having a lot of trouble starting my rig this past month. It just
> runs a little 2.2l 4 cyl diesel. It used to start the first cranking,
then
> it needed 2, then 3, then 4, till it got to the point that I'd be sitting
> there in the morning, cranking like mad for a good ten minutes almost
> draining my battery flat, pumping away on the gas peddle and sending my
> neighbours insane. Not the best way to start the morning. Once it had
> been started and run for a while it would start first go again as long as
I
> didn;t leave ot turned off for more than a few hours. Once it got cold it
> would be a right bugger to start again.
>
> I'd just put it down to cold and resigned myself to having a very long
> winter. Someone on the group mentioned that glowplugs are important, so I
> got myself down to a mechanic I know and trust. Glowplugs preheat the
fuel
> to help it ignite when conditions are cold. He said that there are a lot
> of glowplugs available from different manufacturers, and that the OEM
items
> are generally crap. He recommended a brand that was made in Japan by an
> aftermarked company (sorry, forgot the name) which were about double the
> price of the OEM item, about $US10 each. This guy has never steered me
> wrong, so I handed over my $40 (1 for each cylinder). This was about 2
> weeks ago, and temperatures have been dropping and dropping. The jeep has
> kicked over on the first revolution every morning without hesitation.
>
> As an aside, he mentioned to me that glowplugs are controlled by a time
> based relay. When the key is set to the 'on' position they turn on for
> 5~10 seconds and then turn back off again. This is so they wouldn't burn
> out if you left your key in 'on' without starting your car. He says the
> best thing to do is first turn the key to 'on', wait 5 seconds and then
> start the engine. It gives the plugs a few seconds to start warming up.
>
> Hope this helps somebody out there..... an inexpensive fix that gave a
> massive improvement.
>
> Shaun
> South Korea
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
37249 From: wishmaaker <wishmaaker@y...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:52am
Subject: Burned SUV in the 2nd Cove
While out at the lake yesterday, saw and off road recovery truck on
its way to retrieve the burned SUV. Looks like no one will need to
pull it out after all. bummer
37250 From: wishmaaker <wishmaaker@y...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:59am
Subject: Sunday
anyone want to go wheeling today?
37251 From: David King <daveaz@p...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 7:03am
Subject: re: best price on BFGs
From: Fourwhlcrzy@a...
Date: Fri Dec 14, 2001 6:15 pm
Subject: best price on BFGs
antone know who has best prices on BFGs, east valley?.Gotta spend that x-mas bonus tomorrow!
TIA
Daren
01 XJ
Daren
I got aan email from a friend that is a mgr at the Metro Center Goodyear Tire shop.....if anyone is interested in MTR's..they are on sale today and Monday.
Dave King
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Holschuh
To: David King
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: tire sale
Goodyear MTR's on sale!
31-1050r15-list-$217.20 cost-$135.15
32-1150r15-list $241.95 cost-$149.75
33-1250r15-list-$243.80 cost $150.84
35-1250r15 list-$262.15 cost $161.67
if you now of anyone that needs tires let me know by monday. We are having a contest. I tried to look up Mr. Ed's web site and could not find it under mred.com. If you can tell me that way I can let him now also.
Thanks,
Scott H.
37227 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:30am
Subject: [FS] 2- 35x12.50x15 Big O AT
Price: $200
Contact: Nathaniel 623-535-7735 bnateaz@hotmail.com
Pair of these of my dad's pickup less than 7000 miles on them I can get them mounted and the warranty transferred over. They have a lifetime warranty on any kind of damage.
nathaniel larson
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
37228 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 0:33pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
To: AZ_VJC
Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it seemed
that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more than
the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side bracket
is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
TIA
--James
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
37229 From: dan bistany <dandamanx1@y...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 0:50pm
Subject: Wanted: 89 YJ shifter assembly
Does anyone have the shifter and all of the components
to go along with it...I need the pieces that connect
it to the tranny. I am Willing to come and pick them
up. Pick a reasonable price.
Thanks
Dan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of
your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com
or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com
37230 From: Kevin <nau88xj@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:29pm
Subject: Re: Custom made pipe benders
there would probably be more interest in a TUBE bender than a PIPE bender.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rrichards13" <rrichards13@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 9:44 AM
Subject: [az_vjc] Custom made pipe benders
| Hey guys, I just thought I would see if any of you would be
| interested in custom made pipe benders(wouldn't it be great to have
| your own bender). I will say this..These benders will hardly take
| space in your garage and their on wheels for easy moving.
| I will post another email later today when I take pictures of a
| bender and get all the important info on them.
| MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!
|
| Randy
| 99Tj
|
|
|
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
|
37231 From: jeep357cab <Kilr650@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:32pm
Subject: My Jeep was stolen!
Well actually it was my brother's Jeep. But I feel just as bad as
if it was my own. It was stolen from his apartment complex at
First/Prince area in Tucson. Just in case any one might see it here
are the particulars:
'94 Grand Cherokee Laredo
VIN# 1J4GZ5853RC298749
AZ License # LBL 433
color: Champagne
Jeep is completely stock. Currently has two stock size Pirelli
Norsman tires at one end and two Bridgestone Desert Duelers at the
other both mounted on factory alloy wheels. The spare is a new
Pirelli Norsman mounted on a white "wagon wheel" and kept inside
vehicle.
If seen please call 911 and e-mail me or call.
TIA
Eddie Nordstrom
520-444-1921 cell
'98 TJ
37232 From: Chris Krieg <rv6a@m...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:22pm
Subject: Re: TJ Torque spec needed
Stu,
No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
him go to your website?
The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
factory TSM.
See how much easier that was.
Chris K
On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: AZ_VJC
> Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
>
> I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
>
> FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> seemed
> that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> than
> the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> bracket
> is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
>
> TIA
>
> --James
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37233 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:36pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
Chris,
No offense taken. Why did I do it?
Because I can point James to the spot where that info and other similar
information is sitting. Then, when he wants to know the torque spec for the
upper arms or a track bar, he doesn't have to post and wait for an answer
because he will already know where to find it.
I trust that didn't sound like a stupid answer?
Stu
Stu Olson
www.stu-offroad.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Krieg [mailto:rv6a@m...]
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 4:22 PM
To: Stu Olson
Cc: 'James Towle'; 'AZ_VJC'
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
Stu,
No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
him go to your website?
The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
factory TSM.
See how much easier that was.
Chris K
On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
> http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
>
> Stu Olson
> www.stu-offroad.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> To: AZ_VJC
> Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
>
> I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
>
> FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> seemed
> that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> than
> the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> bracket
> is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
>
> TIA
>
> --James
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37234 From: James Towle <James.Towle@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:39pm
Subject: RE: TJ Torque spec needed
Thanks Stu & Chris,
I don't mind too much reading Stu's web page. It helped learn I ought to be
taking my own advice, to read Stu's web page.
On sort of the same subject:
Since replacing the bushings in the front LCA's and adding the new/used Tera
UCA's with new bushings. The steering wheel is now pointed to the left. It
seems to me since I installed the lift originally, more specifically over
the last 6 months, I have had to adjust the steering. I am wondering if my
adjusting the steering 6 months ago was chasing the bushings going out or if
I created a new problem doing this work on the control arms. I guess the
bigger question, maybe FlexyXJ knows, should I go in and get an alignment?
Any help?
--James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Krieg [mailto:rv6a@m...]
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 4:22 PM
> To: Stu Olson
> Cc: 'James Towle'; 'AZ_VJC'
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
>
>
> Stu,
> No offense, but why don't you just tell him the answer instead of making
> him go to your website?
>
> The lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 130 ft/lbs per the
> factory TSM.
> See how much easier that was.
>
> Chris K
>
> On Saturday, December 15, 2001, at 01:33 PM, Stu Olson wrote:
>
> > http://www.stu-offroad.com/misc/maint.htm
> >
> > Stu Olson
> > www.stu-offroad.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: James Towle [mailto:James.Towle@a...]
> > Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 10:32 AM
> > To: AZ_VJC
> > Subject: [az_vjc] TJ Torque spec needed
> >
> >
> >
> > I need the torque spec for a TJ front lower control axle side bolt.
> >
> > FYI - When I replaced the bushings on my 2.5 year old Tera arms it
> > seemed
> > that the bushings on the frame side of the front LCA's were wore more
> > than
> > the others. I am not sure why but, I am thinking that the frame side
> > bracket
> > is stiffer and thus the bushing takes more abuse.
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > --James
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
37235 From: Joe W <arizonajeep@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 4:33pm
Subject: Thanks Scott Kruize!
Just a quick note to thank Scott and Theresa for the help today on the Jeep.
We replaced my stock 297x U-joints with 760x U-joints on my trail spare
axles. Then Scott tack welded the caps on my rig and my spare axles to keep
the caps from turning.
Thanks Scott and Theresa.
PS Burny the dachshund is doing great... except he just pooped on my Den
floor. <grin>
Joe and Joyce West
37236 From: <sharxjeep@c...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 1:12pm
Subject: TJ carriers needed
Looking for a set carriers for d30 and d35 4:10s, have gears just need stock carriers for a friend.
Sharky
37237 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 6:30pm
Subject: [FS] Chrome Tube bumpers
Price: $150.00
Contact: dsckthomas@uswest.net
Front and rear chrome tube bumpers off of my
CJ7. Will clean up and look pretty good. All
I want is $150.00 for the pair, just to get
rid of them.
Dennis Thomas
37238 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 8:46pm
Subject: Re: Rebuild kit for np231
People do claim that those chains stretch. I recently replaced mine
(in my '93 YJ) but when I held the new one up to the old one, there
wasn't much difference. Maybe a tiny bit of difference makes a big
difference?
-Roger
Beckham, Michael wrote:
>
> My motivation is merely to fix the horrible rattle, which was diagnosed by
> AAMCO as my transfer case chain. Sounds like slapping the chain across cast
> aluminum......though JW thinks it is the trans. I myself admit to ignorance
> (different from stupidity) and when I took it to them for an estimate, got
> it back re-sealed with the advice I fix the chain, as it does stretch after
> much hard-core use. any reasonable comments?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Tomas [mailto:tomasr@a...]
> Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 3:28 PM
> To: Beckham, Michael
> Cc: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Rebuild kit for np231
>
> I've never heard of a rebuild kit although that doesn't mean they don't
> exist. But I have heard of people replacing the chain. And, of course,
> I've heard of SYE kits that replace the main shaft, 4:1 kits that replace
> the front half of the case as well as the reduction gears, and 2lo kits
> that replace the range selector parts (don't remember what they're called).
> I've done all of these.
>
> I don't know what your motivation is or what such a kit would cost, but
> it might be worth doing one or more of the above upgrades and getting
> some improved capability at the same time.
>
> -Roger
>
> "Beckham, Michael" wrote:
> >
> > Is there a rebuild kit for an NP231 transfer case? I'd like a do-it-all
> one
> > purchase kit if possible.....
37239 From: DougB <azjeep@h...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 8:46pm
Subject: Tommy Brown virus
Got a note from Tommy Brown...had attachments...had a virus.
Tommy - please clean your system.
Thanks,
Doug
37240 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:07pm
Subject: Don't open np231 message
Don't open the message attachment on the np231 rebuild kit message. It is a virus.
Nick
37241 From: Mike & Karen Acuna <macunasprint@e...>
Date: Sat Dec 15, 2001 10:35pm
Subject: OT[Fwd: Highly Recommended by Mike Acuna]
From: macunasprint@e...
To: macunasprint@e...
Subject: Highly Recommended by Mike Acuna
Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 20:35:29 -0800 (PST)
Hi,
Mike Acuna would like you to see this Web page:
Fun Flash - The Tellie-Targets Game
(By MadBlast)
Click below to see this page and to join the MadBlast mailing list:
http://www.flowgo.com/rsubf.cfm?id=amzerrvyizzxiSrocjqdphpDqcu&l=42&p=14260&d=12-15-01
To just visit the recommended page, click here:
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We also thought you might be interested in the following SPECIAL offer!
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<a href="http://www.flowgo.com/adredir.cfm?ad_id=528&d=12-15-01">AOL LINK</a>
================================================
The flowgo.com mail referral system is meant to be used exclusively as a way to forward preferred pages to friends.
One of your friends sent this email through our website.
Friend's name: Mike Acuna
Friend's IP address: 172.16.1.251
Date and Time: 12/15/01 20:33:28 PM Pacific
If you feel this email was sent to you in error, or you do not know the friend you are receiving emails from, please notify us at:
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37242 From: AzVJC Website <azvjc@a...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 0:04am
Subject: [FS] For Sale 1977 Cherokee
Price: $6,000OBO
Contact: Travis or Thell Carpenter (602)841-4211or t_dog55@hotmail.com
Strong running 360 with edlebroc intake and 4barrel carb. MSD Ignition. Auto Tranny and Quadra trans case. 33X12.50 Tires with lots of tread. Great daily driver or an excellent trail rig. Hate to sell her but have decided to buy CJ-5.
Travis Carpenter
37243 From: DesertJeep <joey@d...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 1:01am
Subject: RE: Prefix Suggestion
I got another one.
[JM] = Junk eMail
Joey K
> -----Original Message-----
> From: neder13 [mailto:azvjc@a...]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:26 AM
> To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [az_vjc] Prefix Suggestion
>
>
> We have the following prefixes in use for the AzVJC mailing list:
>
> [TR] = Trail Run
> [LU] = Land Use
> [FS] = For Sale
> [OT] = Off Topic
> (did I miss any?)
>
> May I suggest one more?
>
> [MB] = More Banter
>
> This way when the thread runs completely off topic instead of having
>
> "Some Newer Subject WAS: Some New Subject WAS: Some Old Subject WAS:
> Some Older Subject..." we can just change the subject line to "[MB]
> Old Subject Line"
>
> Of course we could then also have [MUB] or More Useless Banter... ;)
>
> - Mike
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
37244 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:08am
Subject: Heaters misc.
With winter coming up and all.....
I'm sure a lot of guys aren't too impressed with the performance of their
heaters now that the chill is setting in. In summer my rig is hot enough
that you can fry an egg even if you just open the vent. Come winter it
doesn't even warm up for a good 15 minutes worth of driving. In line with
the recent message on insulation, I was trying to think where the engine is
losing all it's heat from. Obviously the radiator is the main source of
loss (and rightly so!), but what about loss of heat between the engine and
the heater coil? Has anyone thought of insulating the water hoses and the
coil housing itself? I'm sure it would offer some improvement. I'm going
to try insulating all my hoses with copper foil, then with electricians
tape, then with a thick material tape. I guess I'll remove it all in the
spring. Has anyone else got any ideas on improving the heaters
performance? I went as far as to consider putting a household heater in my
jeep. I've got an 800 watt electrical inverter, so I figured I'd be set,
but after looking at the labels on average heaters, a lot of them use over
2,000 watts, and even the little weeny ones start from about 900watts....
no wonder my heating bill goes up so much in winter. That's about the same
amount of power required to run 4 refrigerators!
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37245 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:01am
Subject: insulating/soundproofing/windproofing
Hi Gang,
Has anyone out there had any luck in terms of
insulating/soundproofing/windproofing their rig? My jeep is pretty noisy
and lets in it's fair share of wind which is annoying in two ways; it's
pretty noisy and it gets chilly in winter. It's a soft top but there's a
hard top over the driver/passenger that is well insulated and
soundproofed. I obviously can't do much about the soft top's noise, but
that doesn't bother me a lot. The biggest problem is air whistling around
the doors and windows. The seals are not very good. The windows are of
the removable type; they slot into the door, so their really isn't
much to 'push' them against the frame, they just sort of flop around a
bit. I've seen 3M weather stripping around in some pretty think sizes and
thought I might have a go at using that to replace my door seals. i did
consider putting some sort of spring loaded locking lever at the top of the
window to pull it into the frame, but figured it would just be a pain in
the *** and I'd never use it. Does anyone else have this style of window?
In terms of over all soundproofing (engine noise and road noise) has anyone
tried the rubberized under body sprays? Paint shops will apply it over
here for just $50, not much to lose if it doesn't work out, but are there
any downsides to it? Will it offer any improvements in terms of reducing
noise or reducing heat loss by insulation? Has anyone applied some sort of
insulation to either their firewall, engine bay or doors to improve
soundproofing? Am I better off just sticking with ear plugs?
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37246 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:24am
Subject: Wheel stud repair?
The studs (or bolts) that hold the wheel onto the jeep have been snapped
off. It's a long story, but it started out when the previous owner changed
a flat and only did up three of the six bolts tightly. The others somehow
binded, and when he tried to undo them one neatly snapped off. I bought
the car like this, and though it bothered me, I didn't think it was an
enormous problem. I do no high speed driving, and there were still 5 studs
left. I figured I'd get around to it some day. I changed my tires on the
weekend and when they did up the wheel nuts 2 more studs came loose leaving
only 3 nuts holding the wheel on! To make matters worse, they are not
evenly spaced, two are on one side and one on the other. I made a brief
examination of it, the brake disk and the part the studs are on are all a
one piece item. The studs are welded to the carrier. Is there a possible
fix here, or am I looking at replacing the entire part? It's a little
pricey, maybe $200~$300, so I'd really like to do a fix if possible. I
haven't driven the rig since yesterday for fear of something going amiss.
I'd really appreciate a prompt response, I have to think about transport
for work......
Thanks,
Shaun
South Korea
37247 From: imagineero <imagineero@x...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 4:18am
Subject: diesel starting problem solved
I'd been having a lot of trouble starting my rig this past month. It just
runs a little 2.2l 4 cyl diesel. It used to start the first cranking, then
it needed 2, then 3, then 4, till it got to the point that I'd be sitting
there in the morning, cranking like mad for a good ten minutes almost
draining my battery flat, pumping away on the gas peddle and sending my
neighbours insane. Not the best way to start the morning. Once it had
been started and run for a while it would start first go again as long as I
didn;t leave ot turned off for more than a few hours. Once it got cold it
would be a right bugger to start again.
I'd just put it down to cold and resigned myself to having a very long
winter. Someone on the group mentioned that glowplugs are important, so I
got myself down to a mechanic I know and trust. Glowplugs preheat the fuel
to help it ignite when conditions are cold. He said that there are a lot
of glowplugs available from different manufacturers, and that the OEM items
are generally crap. He recommended a brand that was made in Japan by an
aftermarked company (sorry, forgot the name) which were about double the
price of the OEM item, about $US10 each. This guy has never steered me
wrong, so I handed over my $40 (1 for each cylinder). This was about 2
weeks ago, and temperatures have been dropping and dropping. The jeep has
kicked over on the first revolution every morning without hesitation.
As an aside, he mentioned to me that glowplugs are controlled by a time
based relay. When the key is set to the 'on' position they turn on for
5~10 seconds and then turn back off again. This is so they wouldn't burn
out if you left your key in 'on' without starting your car. He says the
best thing to do is first turn the key to 'on', wait 5 seconds and then
start the engine. It gives the plugs a few seconds to start warming up.
Hope this helps somebody out there..... an inexpensive fix that gave a
massive improvement.
Shaun
South Korea
37248 From: J & P Visic <jpvisic@n...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:40am
Subject: Re: diesel starting problem solved
Shaun,
What is it you drive? Diesel with a half hard top? Just curious. I have
no help for you on the insulation and noise. I'm still trying to find a way
to keep the screws in my hard top to windshield frame from falling out on my
CJ-7.
John
Casa Grande
----- Original Message -----
From: "imagineero" <imagineero@x...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 5:18 AM
Subject: [az_vjc] diesel starting problem solved
> I'd been having a lot of trouble starting my rig this past month. It just
> runs a little 2.2l 4 cyl diesel. It used to start the first cranking,
then
> it needed 2, then 3, then 4, till it got to the point that I'd be sitting
> there in the morning, cranking like mad for a good ten minutes almost
> draining my battery flat, pumping away on the gas peddle and sending my
> neighbours insane. Not the best way to start the morning. Once it had
> been started and run for a while it would start first go again as long as
I
> didn;t leave ot turned off for more than a few hours. Once it got cold it
> would be a right bugger to start again.
>
> I'd just put it down to cold and resigned myself to having a very long
> winter. Someone on the group mentioned that glowplugs are important, so I
> got myself down to a mechanic I know and trust. Glowplugs preheat the
fuel
> to help it ignite when conditions are cold. He said that there are a lot
> of glowplugs available from different manufacturers, and that the OEM
items
> are generally crap. He recommended a brand that was made in Japan by an
> aftermarked company (sorry, forgot the name) which were about double the
> price of the OEM item, about $US10 each. This guy has never steered me
> wrong, so I handed over my $40 (1 for each cylinder). This was about 2
> weeks ago, and temperatures have been dropping and dropping. The jeep has
> kicked over on the first revolution every morning without hesitation.
>
> As an aside, he mentioned to me that glowplugs are controlled by a time
> based relay. When the key is set to the 'on' position they turn on for
> 5~10 seconds and then turn back off again. This is so they wouldn't burn
> out if you left your key in 'on' without starting your car. He says the
> best thing to do is first turn the key to 'on', wait 5 seconds and then
> start the engine. It gives the plugs a few seconds to start warming up.
>
> Hope this helps somebody out there..... an inexpensive fix that gave a
> massive improvement.
>
> Shaun
> South Korea
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
37249 From: wishmaaker <wishmaaker@y...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:52am
Subject: Burned SUV in the 2nd Cove
While out at the lake yesterday, saw and off road recovery truck on
its way to retrieve the burned SUV. Looks like no one will need to
pull it out after all. bummer
37250 From: wishmaaker <wishmaaker@y...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 6:59am
Subject: Sunday
anyone want to go wheeling today?
37251 From: David King <daveaz@p...>
Date: Sun Dec 16, 2001 7:03am
Subject: re: best price on BFGs
From: Fourwhlcrzy@a...
Date: Fri Dec 14, 2001 6:15 pm
Subject: best price on BFGs
antone know who has best prices on BFGs, east valley?.Gotta spend that x-mas bonus tomorrow!
TIA
Daren
01 XJ
Daren
I got aan email from a friend that is a mgr at the Metro Center Goodyear Tire shop.....if anyone is interested in MTR's..they are on sale today and Monday.
Dave King
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Holschuh
To: David King
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2001 8:37 AM
Subject: tire sale
Goodyear MTR's on sale!
31-1050r15-list-$217.20 cost-$135.15
32-1150r15-list $241.95 cost-$149.75
33-1250r15-list-$243.80 cost $150.84
35-1250r15 list-$262.15 cost $161.67
if you now of anyone that needs tires let me know by monday. We are having a contest. I tried to look up Mr. Ed's web site and could not find it under mred.com. If you can tell me that way I can let him now also.
Thanks,
Scott H.