Staun Beadlocks... What are your thoughts?

[BRUZR]

Just looking around at different Jeep stuff and came across this at Jason LaLiberty's site... What do you guys think about something like this vs. traditional beadlocks?

http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/staun-bead-lock-p-2219.html?osCsid=1c966f214ece62deea3346a8b5cb3ceb

[AZXJ]

Cool product, I prefer traditional beadlocks myself.

[BRUZR]

Cool product, I prefer traditional beadlocks myself.

Me too...

1. because they look cool
2. you know they're their
3. THEY WORK

Not necessarily in that order. So do these Staun things work?

[AZXJ]

I suppose if they were the lattest and greatest thing everyone would be running them over on Pirate... I've yet to see or hear a report on them..

[UNSTUCK]

I read a report in one of the mags I get. You should have seen the pics of the Jeep they were using. They were doing everything they could think of to loose a bead. No luck. They aired down to like 3 pounds on concreet then winched it sideways with another jeep. All four tires skidding. The tires couldn't even fold over because of the 30 psi in the innertube. They just couldn't get the bead to let go, nor did they ever loose any air. Keep in mind this is for the inner and outter beads as well.
You can run them at 0 psi and the innertube will still keep your rim an inch or two off the ground. So it acts like a runflat as well. Think of the traction that could get you.
You can run them on your wheels that you have now. And you never have to worry about the cops seeing them. I would love to get them.

Man I should go into sales.

[AZXJ]

They still offer no protection to the rims.. Although from what you posted they sounds like another great option..

[Stu Olson]

That is true, Stauns offer no protection to the rim.

Regular beadlocks do nothing to secure the inner bead, Stauns lock both beads.

Staun's can be moved from one wheel to another....ie., if you decide to get new wheels (assuming they are still the same wheel diameter), you can remove them from your old wheels and mount them on your new wheels. While I've not tried that on conventional beadlocks, I am thinking that is pretty much impossible....and if it could be done, the cost would be up there involved. It costs you nothing (except your time) to migrate Staun beadlocks to a new wheel. :cool:

I know a few of the folks that tested the Staun's when they were first introduced. They ran them flat (no air pressure in the tire) out at Johnson Valley and the tire was not harmed. Simply put, they are pretty much bulletproof.

As with most products, some folks like them, others don't. I guess it boils down to just that. If having an outer ring is a must have, then you need to get conventional beadlocks. If you want something that doesn't have 36 bolts holding it in place, locks both beads, and can safely finish the trail with a hole in the tire's sidewall, then get the Stauns. :D

[desertfabmotors]

They work very well, and it is a inner & outer bead-loc. They are a major pain in the ***** to install though.
A few of my buddies run them on thier rigs.

[ThumpAZ]

I'd have to agree.
The one major benefit, for most in this group, is that they're easier to hide for on-road use.

Again, though, with our terrain... no protection against trashing tire and wheel bead areas. You lso have to drill a new hole in your rim for the additional valve stem.

IMHO, they're a great product and work well for their intended purpose. Everything has pros and cons. You just have to decide which outweighs the other. :)

[desertfabmotors]

Another thing to think about is, they are not designed for street use. Tire balancing would be an issue.

[rgenest]

I have been running these for about 9 months no problem on road and off road I am very comfortable airing down, have not been below 8 pouns yet.

:)

[Markos]

Personally, I'd love to get a set!

Staun's can be moved from one wheel to another....ie., if you decide to get new wheels (assuming they are still the same wheel diameter), you can remove them from your old wheels and mount them on your new wheels.

As someone already pointed out, keep in mind that you have to drill a hole in your rim. This means that your old wheels are pretty much scrap once you are through, unless you can get someone to buy them for cheap.

Another downside is the price. They come with a hefty price tag, especially considering that you get a peice of rubber and kevlar, instead of a large aluminum wheel with hardware etc.

[Stu Olson]

Another downside is the price. They come with a hefty price tag.....
If I remember correctly, they are nearly the same as converting your existing wheels to beadlocks, plus or minus a few $$. (depends on who is doing the work and/or where you are buying your junk)

Glenn....you cracked me up with that comment....You also have to drill a new hole in your rim for the additional valve stem.
I don't care who you are, that's funny! :D

Most folks are totally able to cut and reweld their own wheels to install beadlocks. :rolleyes: Let me see....which might be easier.....drill a hole in the wheel.....or.....cut and re-weld my wheel?

Without a doubt the Stauns have no "cool factor" at all....no oversized rock ring bolted on the wheel, missing all those bolts, etc.

As for the Stauns not being able to be used on the highway, that is the first I've heard of that one. Given that they provide you with run flat protection, I can't think of a better thing to have in my tire when cruising down the freeway. The folks I know that have them have reported zero problems getting their tire balanced.

As is the case with most things, there are easier ways and harder ways to do the same job. If needed, I can find a write-up for making the Staun install pretty straight forward. Anyone that has put on Staun's beadlocks should be able to figure it out on their own by the time they hit the 3rd tire....if they don't, they need to get a friend to help. :D

Edit: Is it honestly that hard to have a valve stem hole welded shut? I'm assuming it must not be as I've seen guys do this for regular beadlocks when the newly welded lip didn't allow access to the existing valve stem.

[TomHatch]

As someone already pointed out, keep in mind that you have to drill a hole in your rim. This means that your old wheels are pretty much scrap once you are through, unless you can get someone to buy them for cheap.


You could just place another valve stem in the wheel if you ever removed the bead locks. You could even sell it as a benefit; inflate and check pressure at the same time!

[Renob]

You could just place another valve stem in the wheel if you ever removed the bead locks. You could even sell it as a benefit; inflate and check pressure at the same time!And air-downs are twice as fast.

[UNSTUCK]

You could just place another valve stem in the wheel if you ever removed the bead locks. You could even sell it as a benefit; inflate and check pressure at the same time!


Ohhhh Great! You've been hanging around me to much. You are starting to think like me. I was going to say that exact same thing. Tell me, what am I thinking right now?

[TomHatch]

Ohhhh Great! You've been hanging around me to much. You are starting to think like me. I was going to say that exact same thing. Tell me, what am I thinking right now?

... I wish I had some Staun Beadlocks...

[Stu Olson]

I checked with one of the wheelers who did initial product testing on the Stauns when they were getting ready for release to the US market. I asked him specifically about their not being suitable for the highway and that they cause wheel balance issues. His response..... "That's BS"

[AZXJ]

Inner rings can be orderd seperately. So essentially, you could swap outter rings over to a diffrent set of rims. So it is possible.. I see your points Stu.
The product is defiantely a great idea and I'm sure will suit the needs of many. Another great option for Crawlers and Dunners!!

[Markos]

Edit: Is it honestly that hard to have a valve stem hole welded shut? I'm assuming it must not be as I've seen guys do this for regular beadlocks when the newly welded lip didn't allow access to the existing valve stem.

My point was that most people sell their wheels when they upgrade. You can't argue that it is a disadvantage to bust out a welder, or add an extra valve stem to your old staun wheels *IF you deside to get rid of them. Why would you want to get rid of them though :)

If I were to buy beadlocks, it would be staun. They are expensive though. Their tire deflators cost $65. Most will argue that they are worth it though...

[Stu Olson]

IF you deside to get rid of them. Why would you want to get rid of them though :)
Some wheels go out of production and when you crack/damage a wheel, you may not find a replacement for it of the same brand/model.

As someone previously mentioned, not having a rock ring on the outside does allow the wheel to take more abuse from the rocks. Mine are starting to show their age after some 7 years of playing in the rocks....and on top of that, I put a nice dent in one at Johnson Valley (Rick Beer reminds me that it is compromised every time he sees it).

At some point in the somewhat near future, I'll most likely be looking to replace my wheels....and that would be the reason for doing it.

[ThumpAZ]

When I was talking about the extra hole, I was thinking of those with only a MIG or arc welder in their homes and the propensity to go with alloy or aluminum wheels. Welding those metals with anything but TIG is a pain and requires you to work hard, yet softly, to recover the finish.
I hadn't considered the extra valve stem, as several folks would be selling the wheels on ebay or other sites and the new owner may not be a wheeler (although the rim would likely have rock damage if the Staun owner used the rig for it's built up purpose) :)
Additionally, the placement of the new hole needs to be pretty exact. Or you can run the risk of cutting the valve stem off as it's attached to the bladder, and not a separate piece like a tubless tire. But I believe they provide very good instructions and maybe even some sort of template for that.

Glad I could make ya laugh. :P