Rubi Locker Warranty Service

[joedokes28]

My front locker stopper working on the CK trip last weekend. From my diagnosis and forum research, I think the air line inside the diff has come loose. The front pump still runs and it stops running when I pinch the air line at the diff. My rig has aftermarket diff covers. Will this void the warranty? Any recomendations on which dealer to take it to? Thanks in advance.

[YGOHOME]

well, aftermarket covers we know shouldn't cause a problem but I understand your concern based on some service reps etc... I've heard good things about Moore in another recent thread.

[Jdemonto@Airpark Jeep Sales]

Call Eric Lies @ 480-226-2709 Or brokejeep@airpark Jeep service..diff covers don't void waranty's!!:D

[RokNRich]

Fix it yourself Joe. Why waste the time going to a dealer ? More than likely they'll put non-synthetic lube back in there and try to charge you for it as well. I'm available early Sunday if you want to do it, bring fluids :cool:

[Jdemonto@Airpark Jeep Sales]

Fix it yourself Joe. Why waste the time going to a dealer ? More than likely they'll put non-synthetic lube back in there and try to charge you for it as well. I'm available early Sunday if you want to do it, bring fluids :cool:


Why get dirty??? Waranty should cover it...

[joedokes28]

Fix it yourself Joe. Why waste the time going to a dealer ? More than likely they'll put non-synthetic lube back in there and try to charge you for it as well. I'm available early Sunday if you want to do it, bring fluids :cool:

Thanks for the offer. It's appreciated. I'd like to have the dealer do it, but I hear you on the synthetic fluid. I'm running RP synchromax in there now. I'll save your offer for help when I takle a more difficult project:cool:

Call Eric Lies @ 480-226-2709 Or brokejeep@airpark Jeep service..diff covers don't void waranty's!!

Thanks Jason. Think I can bring my own fluid in?

[jim0352]

This is a pretty common isue with the Rubicons. Mine has been in twice for it and needs to go again. I have Rockcrusher diff gaurds on and nothing was ever said about them. I've used Bill Luke each time and they didn't seem to have any problems with my Jeep's mods.

Jim

[joedokes28]

Jim, thanks for the info. I thought about Bill Luke because it's a few miles from my home vs. 20 to Airpark. I'm running the rock crusher diff covers as well.

[wannabejeeper]

Can't speak for the rest of the shops, but we use syn. gear oil.

[Huck]

Bill Luke has handled all of my warranty issues. They have warrantied out 2 axles and one front propeller shaft. Both axles came into the dealership, out of the vehicle and at different times. They paid no attention to the mods.
That said, Joe, just pop the cover yourself and tie that sucker on there, solidly. Its a simple repair that done yourself, will save you gas money and time, while giving you the satisfaction of wrenching on your heap.

[joedokes28]

Can't speak for the rest of the shops, but we use syn. gear oil.

Where is this?

[joedokes28]

Bill Luke has handled all of my warranty issues. They have warrantied out 2 axles and one front propeller shaft. Both axles came into the dealership, out of the vehicle and at different times. They paid no attention to the mods.
That said, Joe, just pop the cover yourself and tie that sucker on there, solidly. Its a simple repair that done yourself, will save you gas money and time, while giving you the satisfaction of wrenching on your heap.

I think I'm leaning towards doing it myself. Is a tie wrap sufficient to attach the airline to the tube or should I use something else?

[Huck]

There are two different schools of thought on that. A plastic tie should be sufficient. If it ever breaks it would just get ground up in the gear oil and not damge the gears. The other thought is to use a metal wire tie-the method I've used on both of my diffs-, but then you risk the possibility of it becoming a part of your gear oil and any damage that may cause.

Use whichever method you are comfortable with. If I was to use a plastic tie, I would use two of them. Regardless, I'm sure you'll find it satisfying knocking it out yourself. :)

[danno]

I'm running RP synchromax in there now.

Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that specify automatic transmission fluid, multi-viscosity motor oil or straight grade motor oil so it is pretty thin stuff... Its almost as thin as ATF. You really ought to be running something with a bit thicker in the diffs, especially here in the AZ heat...

[wannabejeeper]

Where is this?

Avondale Chrysler/Jeep

[joedokes28]

Synchromax is recommended for manual transmissions that specify automatic transmission fluid, multi-viscosity motor oil or straight grade motor oil so it is pretty thin stuff... Its almost as thin as ATF. You really ought to be running something with a bit thicker in the diffs, especially here in the AZ heat...

This is what I'm running in 75-90wt
http://www.royalpurple.com/mediaa/images/rqts3lg.jpg

[joedokes28]

There are two different schools of thought on that. A plastic tie should be sufficient. If it ever breaks it would just get ground up in the gear oil and not damge the gears. The other thought is to use a metal wire tie-the method I've used on both of my diffs-, but then you risk the possibility of it becoming a part of your gear oil and any damage that may cause.

Use whichever method you are comfortable with. If I was to use a plastic tie, I would use two of them. Regardless, I'm sure you'll find it satisfying knocking it out yourself. :)


Is this something you made or something I can buy?

[Huck]

They do make little metal-wire type clamps and those are what the factory uses. I just added a little 'booty fab' by twisting up some safety wire around the metal nipple and hose, as double security. I'm sure you could use some thin bailing wire or the equivalent, as well. I use safety wire on my Harleys, particularly on inner primary bolts and it has worked well in the diffs. The factory metal clamp is pretty weak, as you and many others have found out.
I hope this helps Joe,
David

Hey Joe, I just saw what gear oil you are using. The factory recommended weight for the front axle is 80w-90, but for the rear they push it tp 75w-140. The rear works hard and does get pretty warm. You'll see the recommendation numbers on the diff tags (if you haven't removed them)
From the FSM
DESCRIPTION - AXLE LUBRICATION
NOTE: DiamlerChrysler recommends using MoparT
lubricants or lubricants of equal quality.
FRONT AXLE
² 181 FBI (Model 30) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
² 216 FBI (Model 44) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
REAR AXLE
² 194 RBI (Model 35) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
² 226 RBI (Model 44) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE TJ
FLUID TYPES (Continued)

[ActualReverend]

I think I'm leaning towards doing it myself. Is a tie wrap sufficient to attach the airline to the tube or should I use something else?

Could someone post a picture or a link of this fix? I havent had this problem yet, but I am curious how the thing looks inside.

--Bryan

[Huck]

I've got two units, one front and one rear, in the garage, if you want to take a look at them. You can hold them and check out what breaks and how the actuators work. If you carry some safety wire, rtv and gear oil, you'll have what you need to do this repair on the trail. All you do is pull the cover, either front or rear, and replace the black air tube over the metal nipple for the actuator and tie it in place.
HTH

[ActualReverend]

I am in flagstaff, so kinda hard to drop by to see it...

So the entire hose can just come out of the housing? Or just the inside nipple? Is this a more common problem?

--Bryan

[Huck]

Typically, it just comes off of the nipple, inside of the housing and needs to be re-attached. I haven't heard of the airline coming off, outside of the housing. Anything is possible, though. I understand that you are in Flag and could tell by your avatar info. You can stop by, if you come down the hill or I can throw them in the back of my heep, on one of my many trips, up there. You can stop by, while I'm grabbing breakfast at Martans.... :) I've been heading up most weekends, for at least a day, to scout for my hunt. If it is something that you really want to see, I can make it happen.
Be well

[joedokes28]

Saw this thread bumped. Just wanted to let everyone know that I i fixed this myself over a year ago with some quality tie wraps. I put two on each nipple and they are still holding.

[RokNRich]

Saw this thread bumped. Just wanted to let everyone know that I i fixed this myself over a year ago with some quality tie wraps. I put two on each nipple and they are still holding.

Betcha even got your hands dirty, lol :cool:

Why aren't you coming to Moab ?

[joedokes28]

Because I'm a nancy.

I wrench on my jeep, but it never breaks because it doesn't get wheeled :D

I all seriousness though, a new job and no vacation time is keeping me out of Utah.

[jdrogers]

Hey Joe, I just saw what gear oil you are using. The factory recommended weight for the front axle is 80w-90, but for the rear they push it tp 75w-140. The rear works hard and does get pretty warm. You'll see the recommendation numbers on the diff tags (if you haven't removed them)
From the FSM
DESCRIPTION - AXLE LUBRICATION
NOTE: DiamlerChrysler recommends using MoparT
lubricants or lubricants of equal quality.
FRONT AXLE
² 181 FBI (Model 30) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
² 216 FBI (Model 44) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
REAR AXLE
² 194 RBI (Model 35) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
² 226 RBI (Model 44) - Mopart Gear Lubricant
80W-90 (Trailer Towing Mopart Synthenic Gear
Lubricant 75W-140)
0 - 6 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE TJ
FLUID TYPES (Continued)

Watch which year/revision FSM you have...

It is my understanding that 80w-90 was recommended in the first FSM for the Rubicon (2003) but it was updated with a revision page (that the dealer should have) that now calls for only 75w-140 synthetic in the Rubicon front and rear. One of the techs at Airpark showed me the revised page after arguing with me... ;)