blooddrive
01-03-2004, 03:20 PM
25730-25755
25730 From: Jon Loveless <jonloveless@m...>
Date: Wed Jun 20, 2001 10:38pm
Subject: Re:Mathematicians wanted
Me too. Same answer Joe. You really are good (God, I have a really bad headache just reading this stuff.) Get a CO2 tank and be done with it. A 10 pounder holds the equivalent of 650 cubic feet of gas. On the other hand you will need a trailer to haul around all those air tanks.
Jon
At 06:33 PM 6/20/2001 +0000, you wrote:
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:22:35 -0700
From: Chris Krieg
Subject: Re: Mathematicians wanted
Yeah, thats the same answer I came up with.
Chris K
> --- Joe W wrote:
>> James,
>>
>> Let's put down some variables:
>>
>> V1 is the initial volume of the tire to produce the initial tire
>> pressure.
>> V2 is the final volume of the tire to produce the required increase in
>> pressure.
>> P1 is the initial pressure of the tire.
>> P2 is the final pressure of the tire.
>> T1 is the initial temperature of the air in the tire at P1
>> T2 is the final temperature of the air in the tire at P2
>>
>> Assumption; Temperature of the compressed air in the tire is constant.
>> (not
>> really true since the compressed air heats up as it is compressed).
>>
>> Now for the equations, starting with the Natural Gas Law and our initial
>> conditions (initial tire pressure):
>>
>> P1*V1 = N*R*T1 (Let N*R= constant K) which reduces the equation to:
>>
>> P1*V1 = K*T1
>>
>> Doing the same for the final conditions (final tire pressure):
>> P2*V2 = K*T2
>>
>> Setting the initial condition equal to the final condition produces the
>> equation:
>>
>> (P1*V1)/K*T1 = (P2*V2)/K*T2
>>
>> But... since T1 = T2 and K is the same constant for both sides of the
>> equation, the equation simplifies to:
>>
>> P1*V1 = P2*V2
>>
>> Since we know the starting volume (V1) and both the starting and ending
>> pressures (P1 and P2), we can solve for the single unknown, V2:
>>
>> EQUATION 1 : (P1*V1)/P2 = V2
>>
>> Now I guess we need to plug in some numbers:
>>
>> The area of a cylinder is pi*R^2*H
>>
>> I'll model the tire as a cylinder, the wheel as a cylinder, and subtract
>> the
>> two to find the volume:
>>
>> Radius of the tire is Diameter/2 so the radius of your tire is 16.5"
>> Width of the tire is H = 12.5"
>>
>> Volume of the tire= pi*16.5^2*12.5 = 10,691 cubic inches
>>
>> You didn't state the width of your wheel so I'll assume it is 8" and
>> it's
>> radius is 7.5"
>>
>> Volume of the wheel is pi*7.5^2*8 = 1,413 cubic inches
>>
>> The difference in the two volumes is the volume V1 = 9,277 cubic inches.
>>
>>
>> From your specifications:
>>
>> P1 = 12psi
>>
>> P2 = 28psi
>>
>> So... now all we have to do is solve EQUATION 1 derived somewhere above
>> for
>> the volume V2
>>
>> V2=P1*V1/P2
>>
>> Plugging in the numbers:
>>
>> V2 = 12psi*9,277in^3/28psi
>>
>> V2 = 3,976 in^3
>>
>> So... in order to increase the pressure of your tire, the volume of air
>> which had to be produced by your pump is:
>>
>> Delta V = V1-V2
>>
>> Delta V = 9,277-3,976
>>
>> Delta V= 5,301in^3
>>
>> Using the handy dandy conversion from cubic inches to gallons of 1gal =
>> 231in^3 give us the delta in gallons of air of:
>>
>> 5,301in^3/231in^3/gal = 22.95 gallons
>>
>> Now... for a sanity check to see if my numbers are reasonable... at
>> first
>> blush... 22.95 gallons seems large:
>>
>>
>> 5,301in^3 is equivalent to 3.067ft^3 of air. 3.067 cubic foot of air
>> can be
>> pushed out of a quickair II at the rate of 1.45CFM (at 40psi according
>> to
>> quickair's advertisements)...which means that you should be able to air
>> up
>> your tire from 12psi to 28psi in just about 3.067/1.45 minutes =
>>
>> 2.12 minutes!!!
>>
>>
>> Hmmmm... seems reasonable that a quickair II can inflate a tire from 12
>> to
>> 28psi in 2.12 minutes....
>>
>> Let's look at what quickair's advertisement on their web page says:
>>
>> "The QuickAIR2 was developed to inflate 33" and larger tires with ease.
>> The
>> QuickAIR2 will inflate a 33x12.5 tire from totally flat to 30 psi in
>> less
>> than 5 minutes, or from 15 to 30 psi in less than 2.5 minutes*. Get the
>> most
>> out of your tires! QuickAIR2 will let you air down for maximum traction
>> and
>> performance and reinflate quickly. Capable of reseating tire on rim."
>>
>>
>> So... I calculate that it will take 2.12 minutes to inflate the tire at
>> the
>> pressures you are asking and quickair2's numbers show that you can go
>> from
>> 15psi to 30psi in "less than 2.5 minutes".
>>
>> I guess the sanity check worked and the numbers are very close given my
>> rough estimates and assumptions.
>>
>> Your answer is 22.95 +- .25 gallons.
>>
>> Kind Regards,
>>
>> Joe West
>>
>>
>> Now... are you sorry you asked?
>>
>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
25731 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 0:00am
Subject: Re: (unknown)
I would suggest not to power spray above your tranny though as there is a vent there that water and mud could get down into. This would contaminate your tranny fluid and could cause damage to your tranny. I think the vent is a few inches in front of the shifter.
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: Justin
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:19 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] (unknown)
hey guys, i'm am 17 and recently bought my my first vehicle, an 88 cherokee. the guy i bought it from has the entire under carriage of the jeep caked in mud and sand. i was wandering if anyone has ever had their jeep steam cleaned or power washed underneath or knows of a place in the east valley that can do something like that. there is an oil leak somewhere under there, but my dad and i can't find where its coming from because its so dirty. thanks alot.
justin
88 XJ
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25732 From: David O'Boyle <davidoboyle@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 5:02am
Subject: (TR) Cheep Trick/more info
I wanted to add that there is room at my house about four miles from the
trail-head to park tow rigs and trailers. So if the Guys with trailered rigs
want to run this trail there is safe parking for the haulers/tow rigs. And
if the collective wanted we could do a BBQ at the end of the run back at my
house..
Again, I am offline Thursday - Saturday so if you need more info
Cal me at home.. 623-327-1486
Dave
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25733 From: DougB <azjeep@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 5:49am
Subject: Re: L/S question
I think (hope) that the atty's make them say that. ARB states that they
won't warranty them over 33's also, but I've been running them w/ 35's for a
long time.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Krieg" <rv6a@m...>
To: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>; "DougB" <azjeep@h...>; "AzVJC"
<az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] L/S question
> When I bought my Truetracs, they were saying 33s. That's why I bought them
> over some other LSDs.
>
> Chris K
>
> > From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>
> > Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:08:51 -0700
> > To: "DougB" <azjeep@h...>, "AzVJC" <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [az_vjc] L/S question
> >
> > Doug....may or may not apply for you....the Detroit folks do not
recommend
> > the Truetrac for applications involving tires larger than 32".
> >
> > That being said, I have one in the D-30 driving 35" MT/Rs. ;) (but for
> > sure, not the same as being in the rear axle).
> >
> > Stu
> >
> > Stu Olson
> > www.stu-offroad.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: DougB [mailto:azjeep@h...]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 5:11 PM
> > To: AzVJC
> > Subject: [az_vjc] L/S question
> >
> >
> > Any experience out there with a rear application for either a Detroit
> > TrueTrac or Auburn limited slip. Slightly off topic question since it's
for
> > a truck I just picked up...but it'll eventually tow the Jeep...so I
suppose
> > it's OK :o)
> >
> > Thanks for any input, esp as to a heavy duty application for the geared
l/s
> > unit (TrueTrac). Same question on the Auburn.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
25734 From: <msa12171@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 8:09am
Subject: RUBICON TRAIL
Eric and I are leaving for the Rubicon tomorrow morning. We will
stay in Tahoe for the rest of the week and will be back on the 2nd or
3rd. Enjoy the heat. We'll take lots of pics. and post some as soon
as I figure out how when I get back.
See ya-
Mike Anderson
25735 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 8:50am
Subject: Jeep Noise
Ok so Darner says no problem with cat. converter, which I expected.
They also told me if you go 4wheeling, you void your warranty...but
that's a different topic.
After driving the jeep some more I've made the following conclusions,
which are very specific:
I've now determined that it does it whenever the jeep is
decelerating, but only if you don't have it in gear. If you put it
in gear (and have engine compression upon slowing down), no noise; if
you put it in neutral (clutch pedal up or down) lots of metallic
noise. In other words I can make the jeep make the noise depending
on clutch positin/gear postion (neutral vs. any gear).
You can also kind of feel some sort of abnormal contact through the
clutch petal right as it starts.
Will do it under acceleration sometimes, but always under
deceleration. I guess I'm thinking it may be something in the
clutch.
The other problem is that it only does it after driving the jeep for
a few minutes, never right after startup. Which is the reason that
the dealer didn't hear anything, because they wouldn't drive it long
enough.
Anyone had these symptons before?
25736 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:08am
Subject: Jeep Noise
Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
(but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
engaged.
The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
the noise is there.
If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
is no noise.
But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
around for a while.
There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
when getting off the freeway.
Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
25737 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:11am
Subject: Sorry For Possible Double Post
I did the first post @ 8:30 but it didn't come in until 9:08. So I
thought it didn't make it. I did the second post at 9:00 so no
telling when it will come through.
Sorry.
25738 From: <azjeepnut@w...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:45am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
Hasn't this come up before - about voiding your warranty
if you go 4-wheeling? I have never had anybody at the
dealership ever give me any hassle about that (at least
while it was still under warranty)? Is this a big
problem for others? You would think that they would
expect you to go 4-wheeling in their vehicles. Isn't
that the point of them taking all their vehicles through
the Rubicon (yes I realize there are probably a lot of
stacked rocks when they are done, but you get the point).
=)
--
Matt B.
94 YJ
http://azjeeps.offroadhq.net
Arizona Virtual Jeep Club
> Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
>
> Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> engaged.
>
> The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> the noise is there.
>
> If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> is no noise.
>
> But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> around for a while.
>
> There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> when getting off the freeway.
>
> Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
>
> As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
25739 From: Brian Hayes <btomhay@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:54am
Subject: Re: (Jeep Wash)
I know Apache Sands can do either one - though it's like 75 bucks to have
the entire under carriage steamed. They are around apache trail & Sossaman.
How's THAT for east valley.
Brian
94 YJ
> hey guys, i'm am 17 and recently bought my my first vehicle,
>an 88 cherokee. the guy i bought it from has the entire under carriage of
>the jeep caked in mud and sand. i was wandering if anyone has ever had
>their jeep steam cleaned or power washed underneath or knows of a place in
>the east valley that can do something like that. there is an oil leak
>somewhere under there, but my dad and i can't find where its coming from
>because its so dirty. thanks alot.
>
> justin
> 88 XJ
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25740 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:05am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
There was a time when my YJ had only a 2.5" lift, 31" tires and
sway bar disconnects. Despite this mild set-up, I was able to stuff
my front tires into the fenders when the front axle articulated.
To correct his, I figured I only needed a small amount of additional
lift. So, I decided to install some 1" lift shackles because they
were cheap and would be easy to install. Well, much to my surprise,
the situation got worse - not better. It turned out that the longer
shackles allowed the end of the leaf springs to travel in a larger
arc thereby increasing articulation and "stuffability". Oops.
-Roger
25741 From: Daver <daver@c...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:14am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Roger Tomas wrote:
> To correct his, I figured I only needed a small amount of additional
> lift. So, I decided to install some 1" lift shackles because they
> were cheap and would be easy to install. Well, much to my surprise,
> the situation got worse - not better. It turned out that the longer
> shackles allowed the end of the leaf springs to travel in a larger
> arc thereby increasing articulation and "stuffability". Oops.
Hey! I resemble that remark!
I still need to hook up with you Roger. I dropped past your house when I
was in the area, but I missed you. If you're going to be around this
weekend I'll give you a call.
25742 From: <cmandrick@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:19am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
When I finally got my Jeep lifted and the driveline working, I found
out the hard way that extended brakelines must be kept clear of
bumpstops, or they become pinched and refuse to work.
Chris M
25743 From: Brent Lizakowski <brent_lizakowski@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:28am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
The problem I had was kind of the opposite of yours.
With the tranny in gear, and the clutch engaged (pedal out) and under
acceleration, everything was fine (at first I had squeaking). However,
when letting the clutch pedal out after shifting to a lower gear (i.e.
5th to 4th) or let off the gas (decelerating), I'd get what almost
sounded like a gear grinding noise, only not quite so nasty (marbles
in a can is a good description). If the clutch pedal was pushed in,
all noises went away. This is the main thing that led me to believe my
problem was in my clutch. Of course, I put all these ideas in the head
of the dealer and they concurred.
The reason why the noise went away when I pushed the clutch pedal in
was because the stress on the driveshaft joints (my problem was in my
CV ball joint) was relieved. So, the problem really had nothing to do
with the clutch as I originally thought.
Although, your problem is a little different, so I'm not sure what to
tell you. Hopefully, you can get it figured out soon. I feel your pain
though, diagnosing this stuff is a bear. Can you take your Jeep in and
request that you go along with the service advisor for a drive? It
seems like you've got it nailed down now and can recreate the sound as
you wish. Sometimes, that's the best way to do things.
Just curious, have you checked your driveshaft joints yet?
Brent
25744 From: Daver <daver@c...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:27am
Subject: Re: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
cmandrick@h... wrote:
> When I finally got my Jeep lifted and the driveline working, I found
> out the hard way that extended brakelines must be kept clear of
> bumpstops, or they become pinched and refuse to work.
Also, they must be kept clear of tires, otherwise they will wear through
and not work. :-)
25745 From: <jeeperaz@q...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:28am
Subject: Fuel Cell's and Emissions Testing
Im putting a fuel cell in there bed of my CJ and getting rid of the
stock tank.
Should anticipate problems with passing the equipment portion of the
emissions test.... Is it legal?
Regards,
LarryM
25746 From: Tomie Skramstad <mudmaid@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:31am
Subject: Re: Is Anyone using Yahoo Messenger?
I use Yahoo messenger all the time. Do a lot of people
on this list chat on Yahoo?
~ Tomie
Yahoo SN - mudmaid
--- Rick Hall <rnealh@y...> wrote:
> It seems to work this time. I was just curious
> since
> we all have Yahoo ID's.
>
> Rick
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
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>
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25747 From: AzVJC Website <sinanturel@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:32am
Subject: [FS] White wagon wheels FS
Price: $50.00, obo
Contact:
4 White Wagon wheels for sale, 15x8, 6 Lug Pattern
(Chevy, Jeep, Toy, ect. )
Well used, some rust, one is bent alittle, but still
balanced out with a 36" Swamper.
$50.00 for all four, I will spilt-up this set.
I am in Tucson, but may be able to arange Free delivery
to the Phenix area. E-Mail me at sinanturel@yahoo.com
Thanks
Sinan Turel
25748 From: <mike.chatfield@p...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:35am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
And on older CJ's with the short front shocks, you need to make sure
that they are routed so that they can't get "hung" on the top of the
shock; kink and then fail in the middle of a hill.
- Mike
--- In az_vjc@y..., Daver <daver@c...> wrote:
> > extended brakelines must be kept clear of bumpstops,
> > or they become pinched and refuse to work.
>
> Also, they must be kept clear of tires, otherwise they
> will wear through and not work. :-)
25750 From: Rick Hall <rnealh@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:46am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Almost anything I did to try and save money. Always
ended up buying what I wanted later. Especially in
tires, ate the big one there.
Lets see:
-Tomken skid to Kilby Skid
-2" Spacer to 3" TeraFlex
-Tow Hooks to Bumpers w/shackles
-Mountaineer Rack oops I need my back seat
-31x10.5 GY AT no 31x10.5 BFG MT's no 33x12.5ATF no
33x12.5 GY MTS
-TurboCity Rockit to OYR Rockers
-TurboCity AirTube to AirRaid
Do it the way you want it the first time is saves a
lot of money....
Rick
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25751 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:48am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
load (accel or decel).
So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
or tranny.
I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
that would narrow it down a bit.
HTH,
-d
Dan Coley wrote:
>
> Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
>
> Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> engaged.
>
> The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> the noise is there.
>
> If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> is no noise.
>
> But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> around for a while.
>
> There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> when getting off the freeway.
>
> Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
>
> As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
25752 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:56am
Subject: Re: Cherokee 4.0 Engine Problem??
I had my 94 YJ 4.0 wig out on me recently. Tons of crazy stuff.
Like the wipers would always come on when you started the engine.
Stepping on the brakes would disable the radio. When I ran the
onboard air or weldernator the gauges would move by 1/4" or so.
Turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the body back
to the battery. Purchased a $2 ground strap, ran it from the
battery to the battery tray, good as new. ('cept for that damn
header split!)
-d
> "Keith D. Orr" wrote:
>
> Hello Gang,
> Well here I go:,
> About a week back I started to have a problem that started
> like this: I was driving into town and all of a sudden my gas gauge
> that was at 1/4 of a tank went to peg out way past the full mark. And
> then the engine started to miss and finally it started to not shift
> out of first gear. ( It is an automatic). Finally the engine would
> just die due to no more charge in the battery. Well this is what I
> have done so far:
> 1. I have replaced the battery with new one.
> 2. I have replaced the alternator with new one.
> 3. I have replaced rotor, cap, plugs, wires/ new ones.
> 4. I have replaced all vacuum lines/ even trans. lines.
> 5. I have checked all fuses.
> After installing my new battery the Jeep started right up and ran
> great. I went into town and back home, no problems. I then went back
> to town later that day running the A/C, it was hotter that time of the
> day. Half way to town the Jeep started to jerk and slow down and
> finally die. Well the battery was completely dead. It ran great until
> the battery ran out of it charge. I did have the new alternator
> checked and it is working great. The battery is working great. I just
> am not getting any complete circuit I guess????? I am at my wits end.
> I hate electrical problems. And I am not good at it either. I would
> appreciate any help that can be given in this matter. I would like to
> finish it to be able to go out this weekend............... Thanks in
> advance.......
> Casper
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
25753 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:59am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
I have the exact same thing going on and already replaced the xfer case, so
it's not that. It does come when there is slack in the driveline. I've
also had both driveshafts removed and found nothing wrong with the u-joints
or anything.
I've always thought, clutch or tranny.
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Gentile" <dgentile@s...>
To: "Dan Coley" <mt_b@y...>
Cc: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Jeep Noise
> So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
>
> A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
> some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
> load (accel or decel).
>
> So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
> or tranny.
>
> I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
> How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
> my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
>
> Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
> that would narrow it down a bit.
>
> HTH,
> -d
>
> Dan Coley wrote:
> >
> > Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> > expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> > your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
> >
> > Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> > When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> > (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> > It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> > power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> > engaged.
> >
> > The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> > the noise is there.
> >
> > If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> > is no noise.
> >
> > But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> > around for a while.
> >
> > There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> > momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> > The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> > slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> > when getting off the freeway.
> >
> > Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> > connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
> >
> > As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> > this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> > only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
25754 From: Chris R. <my1stjeep@e...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 11:06am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Turbo City Air Intake: It is a metal tube which retains the heat from the
engine and heats up the air heading into the throttle body. After
installing it there was a test that was performed that tested a similar
metal intake with a K&N to a stock intake to a stock intake with a K&N
replacement. The stock set up with a K&N installed and the restrictor on
the end removed gave the best overall performance gains, then the Metal
intake tube came in second.
I heard that Turbo City now makes a Plastic one, the one problem they still
have not overcome is that it ends above the engine, where the stock one ends
at the front where cooler air can be taken in.
I do have better performance when the overall air temps outside are cooler
and first thing in the morning, but on the ride home in the heat coupled
with the engine heat and it does not perform nearly as well. There is an
exhaust tape(looks like gauze) that I am going to wrap around it to attempt
to insulate the tube. When used on headers it is to keep the heat in and
make it exit through the exhaust, so I am hoping it will work to keep the
heat off the metal tube and keep the tube cooler.
Save the money and just install a K&N in the stock box or just add a cone
intake where the box is at. I know the Airaid one puts it where the stock
box is, but the overall price of $199 is outrageous for a 90 degree elbow
and a K&N filter.
Chris
http://www.hotstuff.alloffroad.com/
My1stJeep@e...
'97 TJ
___
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-(O|||||O)-
=======
[||]----O--[||]
----------------------------------------------------
"He who asks is a fool for five minutes, but he who does not ask remains a
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25755 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 11:13am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
Well I just put new u-joints in the rear driveshaft, so that's all
tight. I think I'm gonna pull the front DS and drive without it and
see if that eliminates anything.
I'm just wondering if it may be a throwout bearing or something
similar. But I only have 14K miles on it.
--- In az_vjc@y..., Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...> wrote:
> So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
>
> A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
> some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
> load (accel or decel).
>
> So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
> or tranny.
>
> I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
> How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
> my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
>
> Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
> that would narrow it down a bit.
>
> HTH,
> -d
>
> Dan Coley wrote:
> >
> > Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> > expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> > your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
> >
> > Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> > When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> > (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the
jeep.
> > It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> > power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to
not
> > engaged.
> >
> > The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear,
and
> > the noise is there.
> >
> > If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression
there
> > is no noise.
> >
> > But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> > around for a while.
> >
> > There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep
is
> > momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not
moving.
> > The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> > slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY
evident
> > when getting off the freeway.
> >
> > Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> > connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
> >
> > As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> > this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> > only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
25730 From: Jon Loveless <jonloveless@m...>
Date: Wed Jun 20, 2001 10:38pm
Subject: Re:Mathematicians wanted
Me too. Same answer Joe. You really are good (God, I have a really bad headache just reading this stuff.) Get a CO2 tank and be done with it. A 10 pounder holds the equivalent of 650 cubic feet of gas. On the other hand you will need a trailer to haul around all those air tanks.
Jon
At 06:33 PM 6/20/2001 +0000, you wrote:
Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 08:22:35 -0700
From: Chris Krieg
Subject: Re: Mathematicians wanted
Yeah, thats the same answer I came up with.
Chris K
> --- Joe W wrote:
>> James,
>>
>> Let's put down some variables:
>>
>> V1 is the initial volume of the tire to produce the initial tire
>> pressure.
>> V2 is the final volume of the tire to produce the required increase in
>> pressure.
>> P1 is the initial pressure of the tire.
>> P2 is the final pressure of the tire.
>> T1 is the initial temperature of the air in the tire at P1
>> T2 is the final temperature of the air in the tire at P2
>>
>> Assumption; Temperature of the compressed air in the tire is constant.
>> (not
>> really true since the compressed air heats up as it is compressed).
>>
>> Now for the equations, starting with the Natural Gas Law and our initial
>> conditions (initial tire pressure):
>>
>> P1*V1 = N*R*T1 (Let N*R= constant K) which reduces the equation to:
>>
>> P1*V1 = K*T1
>>
>> Doing the same for the final conditions (final tire pressure):
>> P2*V2 = K*T2
>>
>> Setting the initial condition equal to the final condition produces the
>> equation:
>>
>> (P1*V1)/K*T1 = (P2*V2)/K*T2
>>
>> But... since T1 = T2 and K is the same constant for both sides of the
>> equation, the equation simplifies to:
>>
>> P1*V1 = P2*V2
>>
>> Since we know the starting volume (V1) and both the starting and ending
>> pressures (P1 and P2), we can solve for the single unknown, V2:
>>
>> EQUATION 1 : (P1*V1)/P2 = V2
>>
>> Now I guess we need to plug in some numbers:
>>
>> The area of a cylinder is pi*R^2*H
>>
>> I'll model the tire as a cylinder, the wheel as a cylinder, and subtract
>> the
>> two to find the volume:
>>
>> Radius of the tire is Diameter/2 so the radius of your tire is 16.5"
>> Width of the tire is H = 12.5"
>>
>> Volume of the tire= pi*16.5^2*12.5 = 10,691 cubic inches
>>
>> You didn't state the width of your wheel so I'll assume it is 8" and
>> it's
>> radius is 7.5"
>>
>> Volume of the wheel is pi*7.5^2*8 = 1,413 cubic inches
>>
>> The difference in the two volumes is the volume V1 = 9,277 cubic inches.
>>
>>
>> From your specifications:
>>
>> P1 = 12psi
>>
>> P2 = 28psi
>>
>> So... now all we have to do is solve EQUATION 1 derived somewhere above
>> for
>> the volume V2
>>
>> V2=P1*V1/P2
>>
>> Plugging in the numbers:
>>
>> V2 = 12psi*9,277in^3/28psi
>>
>> V2 = 3,976 in^3
>>
>> So... in order to increase the pressure of your tire, the volume of air
>> which had to be produced by your pump is:
>>
>> Delta V = V1-V2
>>
>> Delta V = 9,277-3,976
>>
>> Delta V= 5,301in^3
>>
>> Using the handy dandy conversion from cubic inches to gallons of 1gal =
>> 231in^3 give us the delta in gallons of air of:
>>
>> 5,301in^3/231in^3/gal = 22.95 gallons
>>
>> Now... for a sanity check to see if my numbers are reasonable... at
>> first
>> blush... 22.95 gallons seems large:
>>
>>
>> 5,301in^3 is equivalent to 3.067ft^3 of air. 3.067 cubic foot of air
>> can be
>> pushed out of a quickair II at the rate of 1.45CFM (at 40psi according
>> to
>> quickair's advertisements)...which means that you should be able to air
>> up
>> your tire from 12psi to 28psi in just about 3.067/1.45 minutes =
>>
>> 2.12 minutes!!!
>>
>>
>> Hmmmm... seems reasonable that a quickair II can inflate a tire from 12
>> to
>> 28psi in 2.12 minutes....
>>
>> Let's look at what quickair's advertisement on their web page says:
>>
>> "The QuickAIR2 was developed to inflate 33" and larger tires with ease.
>> The
>> QuickAIR2 will inflate a 33x12.5 tire from totally flat to 30 psi in
>> less
>> than 5 minutes, or from 15 to 30 psi in less than 2.5 minutes*. Get the
>> most
>> out of your tires! QuickAIR2 will let you air down for maximum traction
>> and
>> performance and reinflate quickly. Capable of reseating tire on rim."
>>
>>
>> So... I calculate that it will take 2.12 minutes to inflate the tire at
>> the
>> pressures you are asking and quickair2's numbers show that you can go
>> from
>> 15psi to 30psi in "less than 2.5 minutes".
>>
>> I guess the sanity check worked and the numbers are very close given my
>> rough estimates and assumptions.
>>
>> Your answer is 22.95 +- .25 gallons.
>>
>> Kind Regards,
>>
>> Joe West
>>
>>
>> Now... are you sorry you asked?
>>
>>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
25731 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 0:00am
Subject: Re: (unknown)
I would suggest not to power spray above your tranny though as there is a vent there that water and mud could get down into. This would contaminate your tranny fluid and could cause damage to your tranny. I think the vent is a few inches in front of the shifter.
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: Justin
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 3:19 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] (unknown)
hey guys, i'm am 17 and recently bought my my first vehicle, an 88 cherokee. the guy i bought it from has the entire under carriage of the jeep caked in mud and sand. i was wandering if anyone has ever had their jeep steam cleaned or power washed underneath or knows of a place in the east valley that can do something like that. there is an oil leak somewhere under there, but my dad and i can't find where its coming from because its so dirty. thanks alot.
justin
88 XJ
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25732 From: David O'Boyle <davidoboyle@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 5:02am
Subject: (TR) Cheep Trick/more info
I wanted to add that there is room at my house about four miles from the
trail-head to park tow rigs and trailers. So if the Guys with trailered rigs
want to run this trail there is safe parking for the haulers/tow rigs. And
if the collective wanted we could do a BBQ at the end of the run back at my
house..
Again, I am offline Thursday - Saturday so if you need more info
Cal me at home.. 623-327-1486
Dave
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25733 From: DougB <azjeep@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 5:49am
Subject: Re: L/S question
I think (hope) that the atty's make them say that. ARB states that they
won't warranty them over 33's also, but I've been running them w/ 35's for a
long time.
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Krieg" <rv6a@m...>
To: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>; "DougB" <azjeep@h...>; "AzVJC"
<az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] L/S question
> When I bought my Truetracs, they were saying 33s. That's why I bought them
> over some other LSDs.
>
> Chris K
>
> > From: "Stu Olson" <solson8@q...>
> > Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 19:08:51 -0700
> > To: "DougB" <azjeep@h...>, "AzVJC" <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [az_vjc] L/S question
> >
> > Doug....may or may not apply for you....the Detroit folks do not
recommend
> > the Truetrac for applications involving tires larger than 32".
> >
> > That being said, I have one in the D-30 driving 35" MT/Rs. ;) (but for
> > sure, not the same as being in the rear axle).
> >
> > Stu
> >
> > Stu Olson
> > www.stu-offroad.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: DougB [mailto:azjeep@h...]
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2001 5:11 PM
> > To: AzVJC
> > Subject: [az_vjc] L/S question
> >
> >
> > Any experience out there with a rear application for either a Detroit
> > TrueTrac or Auburn limited slip. Slightly off topic question since it's
for
> > a truck I just picked up...but it'll eventually tow the Jeep...so I
suppose
> > it's OK :o)
> >
> > Thanks for any input, esp as to a heavy duty application for the geared
l/s
> > unit (TrueTrac). Same question on the Auburn.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Doug
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
25734 From: <msa12171@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 8:09am
Subject: RUBICON TRAIL
Eric and I are leaving for the Rubicon tomorrow morning. We will
stay in Tahoe for the rest of the week and will be back on the 2nd or
3rd. Enjoy the heat. We'll take lots of pics. and post some as soon
as I figure out how when I get back.
See ya-
Mike Anderson
25735 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 8:50am
Subject: Jeep Noise
Ok so Darner says no problem with cat. converter, which I expected.
They also told me if you go 4wheeling, you void your warranty...but
that's a different topic.
After driving the jeep some more I've made the following conclusions,
which are very specific:
I've now determined that it does it whenever the jeep is
decelerating, but only if you don't have it in gear. If you put it
in gear (and have engine compression upon slowing down), no noise; if
you put it in neutral (clutch pedal up or down) lots of metallic
noise. In other words I can make the jeep make the noise depending
on clutch positin/gear postion (neutral vs. any gear).
You can also kind of feel some sort of abnormal contact through the
clutch petal right as it starts.
Will do it under acceleration sometimes, but always under
deceleration. I guess I'm thinking it may be something in the
clutch.
The other problem is that it only does it after driving the jeep for
a few minutes, never right after startup. Which is the reason that
the dealer didn't hear anything, because they wouldn't drive it long
enough.
Anyone had these symptons before?
25736 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:08am
Subject: Jeep Noise
Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
(but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
engaged.
The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
the noise is there.
If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
is no noise.
But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
around for a while.
There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
when getting off the freeway.
Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
25737 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:11am
Subject: Sorry For Possible Double Post
I did the first post @ 8:30 but it didn't come in until 9:08. So I
thought it didn't make it. I did the second post at 9:00 so no
telling when it will come through.
Sorry.
25738 From: <azjeepnut@w...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:45am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
Hasn't this come up before - about voiding your warranty
if you go 4-wheeling? I have never had anybody at the
dealership ever give me any hassle about that (at least
while it was still under warranty)? Is this a big
problem for others? You would think that they would
expect you to go 4-wheeling in their vehicles. Isn't
that the point of them taking all their vehicles through
the Rubicon (yes I realize there are probably a lot of
stacked rocks when they are done, but you get the point).
=)
--
Matt B.
94 YJ
http://azjeeps.offroadhq.net
Arizona Virtual Jeep Club
> Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
>
> Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> engaged.
>
> The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> the noise is there.
>
> If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> is no noise.
>
> But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> around for a while.
>
> There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> when getting off the freeway.
>
> Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
>
> As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
25739 From: Brian Hayes <btomhay@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 9:54am
Subject: Re: (Jeep Wash)
I know Apache Sands can do either one - though it's like 75 bucks to have
the entire under carriage steamed. They are around apache trail & Sossaman.
How's THAT for east valley.
Brian
94 YJ
> hey guys, i'm am 17 and recently bought my my first vehicle,
>an 88 cherokee. the guy i bought it from has the entire under carriage of
>the jeep caked in mud and sand. i was wandering if anyone has ever had
>their jeep steam cleaned or power washed underneath or knows of a place in
>the east valley that can do something like that. there is an oil leak
>somewhere under there, but my dad and i can't find where its coming from
>because its so dirty. thanks alot.
>
> justin
> 88 XJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
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25740 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:05am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
There was a time when my YJ had only a 2.5" lift, 31" tires and
sway bar disconnects. Despite this mild set-up, I was able to stuff
my front tires into the fenders when the front axle articulated.
To correct his, I figured I only needed a small amount of additional
lift. So, I decided to install some 1" lift shackles because they
were cheap and would be easy to install. Well, much to my surprise,
the situation got worse - not better. It turned out that the longer
shackles allowed the end of the leaf springs to travel in a larger
arc thereby increasing articulation and "stuffability". Oops.
-Roger
25741 From: Daver <daver@c...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:14am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Roger Tomas wrote:
> To correct his, I figured I only needed a small amount of additional
> lift. So, I decided to install some 1" lift shackles because they
> were cheap and would be easy to install. Well, much to my surprise,
> the situation got worse - not better. It turned out that the longer
> shackles allowed the end of the leaf springs to travel in a larger
> arc thereby increasing articulation and "stuffability". Oops.
Hey! I resemble that remark!
I still need to hook up with you Roger. I dropped past your house when I
was in the area, but I missed you. If you're going to be around this
weekend I'll give you a call.
25742 From: <cmandrick@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:19am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
When I finally got my Jeep lifted and the driveline working, I found
out the hard way that extended brakelines must be kept clear of
bumpstops, or they become pinched and refuse to work.
Chris M
25743 From: Brent Lizakowski <brent_lizakowski@h...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:28am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
The problem I had was kind of the opposite of yours.
With the tranny in gear, and the clutch engaged (pedal out) and under
acceleration, everything was fine (at first I had squeaking). However,
when letting the clutch pedal out after shifting to a lower gear (i.e.
5th to 4th) or let off the gas (decelerating), I'd get what almost
sounded like a gear grinding noise, only not quite so nasty (marbles
in a can is a good description). If the clutch pedal was pushed in,
all noises went away. This is the main thing that led me to believe my
problem was in my clutch. Of course, I put all these ideas in the head
of the dealer and they concurred.
The reason why the noise went away when I pushed the clutch pedal in
was because the stress on the driveshaft joints (my problem was in my
CV ball joint) was relieved. So, the problem really had nothing to do
with the clutch as I originally thought.
Although, your problem is a little different, so I'm not sure what to
tell you. Hopefully, you can get it figured out soon. I feel your pain
though, diagnosing this stuff is a bear. Can you take your Jeep in and
request that you go along with the service advisor for a drive? It
seems like you've got it nailed down now and can recreate the sound as
you wish. Sometimes, that's the best way to do things.
Just curious, have you checked your driveshaft joints yet?
Brent
25744 From: Daver <daver@c...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:27am
Subject: Re: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
cmandrick@h... wrote:
> When I finally got my Jeep lifted and the driveline working, I found
> out the hard way that extended brakelines must be kept clear of
> bumpstops, or they become pinched and refuse to work.
Also, they must be kept clear of tires, otherwise they will wear through
and not work. :-)
25745 From: <jeeperaz@q...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:28am
Subject: Fuel Cell's and Emissions Testing
Im putting a fuel cell in there bed of my CJ and getting rid of the
stock tank.
Should anticipate problems with passing the equipment portion of the
emissions test.... Is it legal?
Regards,
LarryM
25746 From: Tomie Skramstad <mudmaid@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:31am
Subject: Re: Is Anyone using Yahoo Messenger?
I use Yahoo messenger all the time. Do a lot of people
on this list chat on Yahoo?
~ Tomie
Yahoo SN - mudmaid
--- Rick Hall <rnealh@y...> wrote:
> It seems to work this time. I was just curious
> since
> we all have Yahoo ID's.
>
> Rick
>
> __________________________________________________
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> Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail
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> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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25747 From: AzVJC Website <sinanturel@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:32am
Subject: [FS] White wagon wheels FS
Price: $50.00, obo
Contact:
4 White Wagon wheels for sale, 15x8, 6 Lug Pattern
(Chevy, Jeep, Toy, ect. )
Well used, some rust, one is bent alittle, but still
balanced out with a 36" Swamper.
$50.00 for all four, I will spilt-up this set.
I am in Tucson, but may be able to arange Free delivery
to the Phenix area. E-Mail me at sinanturel@yahoo.com
Thanks
Sinan Turel
25748 From: <mike.chatfield@p...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:35am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
And on older CJ's with the short front shocks, you need to make sure
that they are routed so that they can't get "hung" on the top of the
shock; kink and then fail in the middle of a hill.
- Mike
--- In az_vjc@y..., Daver <daver@c...> wrote:
> > extended brakelines must be kept clear of bumpstops,
> > or they become pinched and refuse to work.
>
> Also, they must be kept clear of tires, otherwise they
> will wear through and not work. :-)
25750 From: Rick Hall <rnealh@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:46am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Almost anything I did to try and save money. Always
ended up buying what I wanted later. Especially in
tires, ate the big one there.
Lets see:
-Tomken skid to Kilby Skid
-2" Spacer to 3" TeraFlex
-Tow Hooks to Bumpers w/shackles
-Mountaineer Rack oops I need my back seat
-31x10.5 GY AT no 31x10.5 BFG MT's no 33x12.5ATF no
33x12.5 GY MTS
-TurboCity Rockit to OYR Rockers
-TurboCity AirTube to AirRaid
Do it the way you want it the first time is saves a
lot of money....
Rick
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25751 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:48am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
load (accel or decel).
So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
or tranny.
I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
that would narrow it down a bit.
HTH,
-d
Dan Coley wrote:
>
> Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
>
> Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> engaged.
>
> The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> the noise is there.
>
> If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> is no noise.
>
> But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> around for a while.
>
> There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> when getting off the freeway.
>
> Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
>
> As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
25752 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:56am
Subject: Re: Cherokee 4.0 Engine Problem??
I had my 94 YJ 4.0 wig out on me recently. Tons of crazy stuff.
Like the wipers would always come on when you started the engine.
Stepping on the brakes would disable the radio. When I ran the
onboard air or weldernator the gauges would move by 1/4" or so.
Turned out to be a poor electrical connection from the body back
to the battery. Purchased a $2 ground strap, ran it from the
battery to the battery tray, good as new. ('cept for that damn
header split!)
-d
> "Keith D. Orr" wrote:
>
> Hello Gang,
> Well here I go:,
> About a week back I started to have a problem that started
> like this: I was driving into town and all of a sudden my gas gauge
> that was at 1/4 of a tank went to peg out way past the full mark. And
> then the engine started to miss and finally it started to not shift
> out of first gear. ( It is an automatic). Finally the engine would
> just die due to no more charge in the battery. Well this is what I
> have done so far:
> 1. I have replaced the battery with new one.
> 2. I have replaced the alternator with new one.
> 3. I have replaced rotor, cap, plugs, wires/ new ones.
> 4. I have replaced all vacuum lines/ even trans. lines.
> 5. I have checked all fuses.
> After installing my new battery the Jeep started right up and ran
> great. I went into town and back home, no problems. I then went back
> to town later that day running the A/C, it was hotter that time of the
> day. Half way to town the Jeep started to jerk and slow down and
> finally die. Well the battery was completely dead. It ran great until
> the battery ran out of it charge. I did have the new alternator
> checked and it is working great. The battery is working great. I just
> am not getting any complete circuit I guess????? I am at my wits end.
> I hate electrical problems. And I am not good at it either. I would
> appreciate any help that can be given in this matter. I would like to
> finish it to be able to go out this weekend............... Thanks in
> advance.......
> Casper
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
25753 From: Nick <nnote@a...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 10:59am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
I have the exact same thing going on and already replaced the xfer case, so
it's not that. It does come when there is slack in the driveline. I've
also had both driveshafts removed and found nothing wrong with the u-joints
or anything.
I've always thought, clutch or tranny.
Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Damon Gentile" <dgentile@s...>
To: "Dan Coley" <mt_b@y...>
Cc: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Jeep Noise
> So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
>
> A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
> some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
> load (accel or decel).
>
> So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
> or tranny.
>
> I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
> How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
> my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
>
> Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
> that would narrow it down a bit.
>
> HTH,
> -d
>
> Dan Coley wrote:
> >
> > Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> > expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> > your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
> >
> > Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> > When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> > (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the jeep.
> > It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> > power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to not
> > engaged.
> >
> > The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear, and
> > the noise is there.
> >
> > If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression there
> > is no noise.
> >
> > But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> > around for a while.
> >
> > There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep is
> > momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not moving.
> > The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> > slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY evident
> > when getting off the freeway.
> >
> > Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> > connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
> >
> > As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> > this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> > only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
25754 From: Chris R. <my1stjeep@e...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 11:06am
Subject: Re: [Q] Modification mistakes....
Turbo City Air Intake: It is a metal tube which retains the heat from the
engine and heats up the air heading into the throttle body. After
installing it there was a test that was performed that tested a similar
metal intake with a K&N to a stock intake to a stock intake with a K&N
replacement. The stock set up with a K&N installed and the restrictor on
the end removed gave the best overall performance gains, then the Metal
intake tube came in second.
I heard that Turbo City now makes a Plastic one, the one problem they still
have not overcome is that it ends above the engine, where the stock one ends
at the front where cooler air can be taken in.
I do have better performance when the overall air temps outside are cooler
and first thing in the morning, but on the ride home in the heat coupled
with the engine heat and it does not perform nearly as well. There is an
exhaust tape(looks like gauze) that I am going to wrap around it to attempt
to insulate the tube. When used on headers it is to keep the heat in and
make it exit through the exhaust, so I am hoping it will work to keep the
heat off the metal tube and keep the tube cooler.
Save the money and just install a K&N in the stock box or just add a cone
intake where the box is at. I know the Airaid one puts it where the stock
box is, but the overall price of $199 is outrageous for a 90 degree elbow
and a K&N filter.
Chris
http://www.hotstuff.alloffroad.com/
My1stJeep@e...
'97 TJ
___
[___]
-(O|||||O)-
=======
[||]----O--[||]
----------------------------------------------------
"He who asks is a fool for five minutes, but he who does not ask remains a
fool forever."
__________________________________________________ _____
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25755 From: Dan Coley <mt_b@y...>
Date: Thu Jun 21, 2001 11:13am
Subject: Re: Jeep Noise
Well I just put new u-joints in the rear driveshaft, so that's all
tight. I think I'm gonna pull the front DS and drive without it and
see if that eliminates anything.
I'm just wondering if it may be a throwout bearing or something
similar. But I only have 14K miles on it.
--- In az_vjc@y..., Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...> wrote:
> So the noise only comes when coasting in neutral-
>
> A noise during coast is usually slack in the drivetrain in
> some form. Stepping on the clutch relevies the engine
> load (accel or decel).
>
> So loginally the culprit is either axle, d-shaft,t-case
> or tranny.
>
> I know that's not a lot of help. Maybe a loose pinion?
> How many miles on the chain driven t-case ? Probably
> my best guess is a loose d-shaft yoke on the rear.
>
> Try driving w/o front d-shaft, then without rear and
> that would narrow it down a bit.
>
> HTH,
> -d
>
> Dan Coley wrote:
> >
> > Ok Darner says there is no problem with the cat. conv. which I
> > expected. They also said that if you go 4 wheeling, then you void
> > your warranty....funny how all the ads for Jeep so them off-road.
> >
> > Anyways, I've made some more specific conclusions to my problem:
> > When coasting from speeds above 30mph or so, there is a consistant
> > (but not very rotational) metallic noise coming from under the
jeep.
> > It only happens if the jeep is not in gear when slowing down (no
> > power applied); the clutch pedal can be anywhere from engaged to
not
> > engaged.
> >
> > The clutch pedal can also be to the floor and the jeep in gear,
and
> > the noise is there.
> >
> > If you put the jeep in gear and slow using engine compression
there
> > is no noise.
> >
> > But it won't happen right after startup, the jeep has to be driven
> > around for a while.
> >
> > There is no noise under power (except when you shift and the jeep
is
> > momentarily not in gear). There is no noise at idle and not
moving.
> > The loudness of the noise is related to speed at which you start
> > slowing down from; barely hear it from 20mph, but it is VERY
evident
> > when getting off the freeway.
> >
> > Right as the noise starts you can also feel some sort of metallic
> > connection made through the clutch pedal, but then it goes away.
> >
> > As far as I can tell it's not affecting performance or function at
> > this time, and I'm not going to keep dumping money into the dealer
> > only to be told they don't know what's wrong.
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/