blooddrive
01-03-2004, 02:51 PM
24228-24252
24228 From: Rick Hall <ricknhall@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 4:42am
Subject: FSM
I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
Rick
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24229 From: KC B <kcbemail@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 6:53am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
I've seen a few postings here talking about snorkels. Are these being added
to protect against "splash"? If not, how do you seal the distributor, the
ignition wires, etc, etc? I prefer going over rocks to going under water
myself, but I'm curious.
Ken
'97 non-submergible TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
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24230 From: David Burke <davewburke@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 6:54am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkle kit
This is a perfect example of "You get what you pay for"
Mike Baney wrote:
> http://www.hardrockcrawlers.org/slides/display.cfm?sid=8&s=i&RequestTimeout=500
>
> Check out this guy's snorkle!
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24231 From: Scott Thomas <sthomas@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:11am
Subject: Extending Brake lines
Hello everyone,
I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed my brake
lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines from
Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a good place
to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes. That's why I'm
not going to try to do it myself.
Thanks,
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
24232 From: James Junkin <jjunkin@p...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:21am
Subject: Re: Re: Onboard Air
I kinda like the way my York looks! It will air up a 35x12.50 in less than
a minute. I used a York off a Grand Wagoneer with the Kilby kit which is a
breeze to install but is a little pricey. Sandens do just as well.
You can find Sandens with a serpentine pulley on late model Chrysler
products. They used many different mounting methods. The AC compressor
mounting on TJ's changed in 99 and again in 2K, but a bracket could be
fabbed up to adapt. What year is your TJ?
Check out www.onboardair.com
James Junkin
O||||||O
'81 SJ Cherokee 4" Skyjacker, 33x12.5 AT's "Midnight"
'98 TJ TeraFlexed, ARB's, 35x12.5 MT's "Crimson Ride"
'97 TJ "Loong term project"
----- Original Message -----
From: <jeeperaz@q...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:48 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] Re: Onboard Air
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York
24233 From: <fmw@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:39am
Subject: Re: FSM
I have a '98 TJ and paid a little under $100.00 for the FSM from a Jeep
dealer here in Tucson.
Fred
At 04:42 AM 05/24/2001 -0700, Rick Hall wrote:
>I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps
FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it
have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where
you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
>
>Rick
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
><META content="MSHTML 5.50.4613.1700" name=GENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone
>tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost
>$89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold
plated cover. It
>is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the
pricing is
>just structured that way.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rick</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
>
>
><br>
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href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms of Service</a>.</tt>
></br>
>
></BODY></HTML>
>
24234 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was always
under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a high
volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead to
seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the only
difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher flow
rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle the
max from either regulator.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@y...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for tires.
Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would be
easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
--- Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> you could carry one of each.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...> wrote:
> I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> $8.00,
> it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> each end too, might come in useful.
>
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used both
> a
> > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> fellow
> > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things are
> > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the Kilby/York
> > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> tires.
> > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air you
> > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2 is
> > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> better
> > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> to
> > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> debates
> > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but in
> > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for Jeep
> > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> >
> > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > finally purchased.
> >
> > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> (new)
> > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it will
> > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> regulators,
> > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> at
> > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> >
> > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> >
> > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a 10#
> > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed pressure
> > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for a
> > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> >
> > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All you
> > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> >
> > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> >
> > Happy airing up to all of you!
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
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24235 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: Garmin Mapsource
Rick,
I don't mind people in the club sharing GPS tracks and waypoints...that is one benefit the club can supply.
I would strongly urge NO one to post our tracks on a web based server. I personally do not want the diaper tossing, beer drinking, trash leaving type of 4 wheeler using the trails we do. Obviously, they already do, but giving them directions will only make it worse. Ask Scott Duety (sp) about his feelings on the AZ trails book he published, now that has been out for a couple of years.
Second....with the eco-freaks on the rise, I would also prefer for them to not know of my wheelin' spots. I don't need their cables, spikes, etc. put on our trails (and yes, they have done that). Burning car dealerships and houses is bad enough....don't give them directions to where we go Jeepin'.
OK....I'll step off my soap box now, and I hope you understand where I am coming from. I have heard other club members make these same comments so I know that I am not the only one that feels this way. ;)
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Hall [mailto:ricknhall@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:22 AM
To: AZVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] Garmin Mapsource
I just got hold of a copy of Mapsource Topo. I know there are a few users of this software out there and was wondering if I could get a few routes/waypoints from anyone to start my collection. In fact if there are enough users maybe we could post the files in the files database.
Rick
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
24236 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: FSM
I bought mine for $99 plus shipping....a '98 TJ FSM manual. I don't know where you got your prices from. I called the 800 number given to me by my worthless DC dealer.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Hall [mailto:ricknhall@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:43 AM
To: AZVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] FSM
I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
Rick
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
24237 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: Extending Brake lines
Scott,
You can by '95 YJ front brake lines and put them on your TJ. They are
several inches longer than the stock TJ lines and fit perfectly. They cost
about $18 each at Checker Auto.
You could have any corner garage install them. The Exon service station up
the street from me told me they would pressure bleed mine (that is the part
I have a problem with) for $5.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Thomas [mailto:sthomas@a...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:12 AM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] Extending Brake lines
Hello everyone,
I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed my brake
lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines from
Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a good place
to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes. That's why I'm
not going to try to do it myself.
Thanks,
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24238 From: Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:55am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
Yes, the snorkle can be used for going through deep water, and it can also
be used for cold air into the intake. Cold air means more HP and bettar
gas milage. If you think of where the air box is now, think of all the
heat generated in the engine compartment.
--- KC B <kcbemail@h...> wrote:
> I've seen a few postings here talking about snorkels. Are these being
> added
> to protect against "splash"? If not, how do you seal the distributor,
> the
> ignition wires, etc, etc? I prefer going over rocks to going under
> water
> myself, but I'm curious.
>
> Ken
> '97 non-submergible TJ
> __________________________________________________ _______________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
24239 From: Roxie <Roxie@t...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:55am
Subject: Re: Female Rockcrawling Championship
Hmmm....Mine wouldn't nearly be ready to do it in time - but the one problem
with the weekend they're doing it is that there is a JeepGirlClub 1st annual
event in the Badlands in Attica - lots of Jeep Girls from the midwest will
be hitting that - and some from the West-west (a few gals and I) will be
heading out for that...Maybe next year :-D
-Stacy-Michelle
TheJeepGoddess.com
"Silly Boys, Jeeps are for Girls"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Coley" <mt_b@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 4:25 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] Female Rockcrawling Championship
> To the females on the board:
> http://www.sportsintherough.com/wnrcc/wnrcc.asp
>
> Tara wants to do this so bad, but we don't have the money to get her
> jeep up to par for it. Would need at the bare minimum to get in
> another locker and a winch, much less the rock protection and spare
> parts and cash to get there, and pay to have the jeep towed home then
> fix what breaks =).
>
> Anyone here gonna do it?
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
24240 From: KC B <kcbemail@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:16am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
24241 From: David W. Smith <dwsmith69@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:22am
Subject: Re: Relocated to Mesa
David Smith
Crismon and Mckellips
91 SOA YJ
Eric Sauley
Brown and Ellsworth
93 YJ
I think there are quite a few poeple in this area. There just kinda of
lurkers here.
>From: thewickers@y...
>To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [az_vjc] Relocated to Mesa
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 03:53:08 -0000
>
>Well I have relocated to East Mesa, my closest cross roads are Elliot
>and Ellsworth. Anyone in that area, I am very excited to be so close
>to great wheelin.
>
>Alan
>94YJ SOA
>Locked Front&Rear
>Warn Winch
>
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
24242 From: Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:27am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
Hey Stu,
When you come over Saturday lets pop the bead off the rim on one of your tires so we can test this out ;)
Stu has some interesting points. The CO2 regulator I purchased is designed for running air tools and tire fillups with CO2. If you use a regular regulator you will not get the flow that the CO2 regulators provide. At least thats what the printed materials that came with the regulator state. C'mon Stu, be the guniea pig.
Scott
Stu Olson wrote:
I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was always
under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a high
volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead to
seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the only
difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher flow
rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle the
max from either regulator.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for tires.
Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would be
easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
--- Scott Kruize wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> you could carry one of each.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Mike Baney wrote:
> I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> $8.00,
> it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> each end too, might come in useful.
>
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used both
> a
> > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> fellow
> > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things are
> > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the Kilby/York
> > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> tires.
> > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air you
> > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2 is
> > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> better
> > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> to
> > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> debates
> > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but in
> > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for Jeep
> > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> >
> > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > finally purchased.
> >
> > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> (new)
> > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it will
> > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> regulators,
> > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> at
> > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> >
> > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> >
> > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a 10#
> > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed pressure
> > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for a
> > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> >
> > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All you
> > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> >
> > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> >
> > Happy airing up to all of you!
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
24243 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:27am
Subject: Re: help with Bearings..
If the speed of the sound is the same speed as the tire rotating it's
NOT in the transfercase. t-case spins 3-4 times faster than tires.
Speed of the tire means it's tires-brakes-wheel bearings
or m-a-y-b-e axle shafts or possibly axle shaft u-joints.
-d (best guess is the wheel bearings)
James Smith wrote:
>
> Ok, Well i just got back from 4-wheelers supply and
> the guy there test drove my Jeep and came up with teh
> conclusion that the noise I was hearing in my front
> transfercase, was a worn out bearing.
>
> It will only make the noise when it is put under
> stress, it will not do it on flat ground. So he
> couldnt make it do it at all, he was just going off of
> what I was telling him.
>
> Ok, well,
> here is what it is doing.
> When I am going uphill or the front end has to pull, a
> noise that sounds almost exactly like a tire rubbing.
> I know it is not the tire rubbing though.
>
> Does anyone have any clue to what I am describing.
> And if it is true that the front bearing in the
> transfercase is gone. How hard is it to replace it?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> Smitty
>
> 95 YJ 4 banger
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24244 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:46am
Subject: Re: Re: Onboard Air
The large Yorks and large (XJ) Sanden units produce just
about the same volume of air... I did the math when
trying to decide what approach is best.
My results :
94YJ -> sanden (bolt on)
86CJ -> york (bolt on)
HTH,
-d
jeeperaz@q... wrote:
>
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York . Sandens and most any stock ac compressor
> work fine for on-board air.
>
> The internal oiling of a York is a bit overrated IMO.
>
> LarryM
>
> --- In az_vjc@y..., linda luik <minihummer@w...> wrote:
> > If you don't plan on ever having air conditioning, pick up a used
> Sanden
> > rotary compressor and get the A/C bracketry from a salvage yard. I
> think
> > TJs use these. I paid $75 (including a pretty good warranty, 1 year
> I
> > think) from Amer Auto Recyclers down on Kyrene and Chandler Blvd
> (?).
> > Beware that the rotary compressors don't have oil sumps like Yorks
> so an
> > external oiler will be needed. Use air tool/compressor oil for you
> > onboard air compressor.
> >
> > Here's my setup (with notes)
> > http://home.att.net/~minihummer/ZJ_topics/oba.html
> >
> > Linda
> >
> > Jake Wagner wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi again!
> > >
> > > I've heard some people mention that they use their AC
> > > compressor for onboard air. How does this set-up
> > > work? I don't have AC in my TJ, but if this an option
> > > I may looking into it rather than a York or a
> > > Quick-Air mounted system.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jake
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24245 From: Siade, Randy <randy.siade@u...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:53am
Subject: RE: Re: Onboard Air
You can find a good York in a junk yard for $25. I bought mine at Eagle
Salvage about 5 years ago and it still works great.
-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Gentile [mailto:dgentile@s...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:46 AM
To: jeeperaz@q...
Cc: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Re: Onboard Air
The large Yorks and large (XJ) Sanden units produce just
about the same volume of air... I did the math when
trying to decide what approach is best.
My results :
94YJ -> sanden (bolt on)
86CJ -> york (bolt on)
HTH,
-d
jeeperaz@q... wrote:
>
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York . Sandens and most any stock ac compressor
> work fine for on-board air.
>
> The internal oiling of a York is a bit overrated IMO.
>
> LarryM
>
> --- In az_vjc@y..., linda luik <minihummer@w...> wrote:
> > If you don't plan on ever having air conditioning, pick up a used
> Sanden
> > rotary compressor and get the A/C bracketry from a salvage yard. I
> think
> > TJs use these. I paid $75 (including a pretty good warranty, 1 year
> I
> > think) from Amer Auto Recyclers down on Kyrene and Chandler Blvd
> (?).
> > Beware that the rotary compressors don't have oil sumps like Yorks
> so an
> > external oiler will be needed. Use air tool/compressor oil for you
> > onboard air compressor.
> >
> > Here's my setup (with notes)
> > http://home.att.net/~minihummer/ZJ_topics/oba.html
> >
> > Linda
> >
> > Jake Wagner wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi again!
> > >
> > > I've heard some people mention that they use their AC
> > > compressor for onboard air. How does this set-up
> > > work? I don't have AC in my TJ, but if this an option
> > > I may looking into it rather than a York or a
> > > Quick-Air mounted system.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jake
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24246 From: Brent Lizakowski <brent_lizakowski@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:58am
Subject: Re: Extending Brake lines
Scott,
Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
when I've needed brake work done in the past.
Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
when you might bust a line out on the trails.
Brent
--- In az_vjc@y..., "Scott Thomas" <sthomas@a...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed
my brake
> lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines
from
> Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a
good place
> to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes.
That's why I'm
> not going to try to do it myself.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Thomas
> 97' Tj
24247 From: Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:05am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
Stu already confirmed that I get PSI and CFM confused! ;)
Air tools should run at approx 90 PSI correct? You have the 100# reg,
does it have a gauge? If it does, do you really need the gauge? Just
something I am curious about. Well besides to tell when you are out, but
the wait of the tank is noticeable when you are running low.
--- Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Stu,
> When you come over Saturday lets pop the bead off the rim on one of your
> tires so we can test this out ;)
> Stu has some interesting points. The CO2 regulator I purchased is
> designed for running air tools and tire fillups with CO2. If you use a
> regular regulator you will not get the flow that the CO2 regulators
> provide. At least thats what the printed materials that came with the
> regulator state. C'mon Stu, be the guniea pig.
> Scott
> Stu Olson <solson8@q...> wrote:
> I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was
> always
> under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a
> high
> volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead
> to
> seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
> this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
>
> So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
> being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the
> only
> difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
> not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher
> flow
> rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
>
> Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
> gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle
> the
> max from either regulator.
>
> Stu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@y...]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
> To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
>
>
> I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
> make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for
> tires.
> Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would
> be
> easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> > Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> > you could carry one of each.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > Mike Baney wrote:
> > I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> > though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> > $8.00,
> > it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> > each end too, might come in useful.
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> > >
> > > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used
> both
> > a
> > > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> > fellow
> > > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things
> are
> > > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the
> Kilby/York
> > > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> > tires.
> > > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air
> you
> > > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2
> is
> > > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> > better
> > > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> > to
> > > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> > debates
> > > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but
> in
> > > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for
> Jeep
> > > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> > >
> > > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > > finally purchased.
> > >
> > > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> > (new)
> > > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it
> will
> > > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> > regulators,
> > > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> > at
> > > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> > >
> > > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> > >
> > > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a
> 10#
> > > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed
> pressure
> > > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for
> a
> > > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All
> you
> > > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> > >
> > > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> > >
> > > Happy airing up to all of you!
> > >
> > > Scott
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Mike Baney
> > 2001 TJ
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
24248 From: Templar <templar1@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:10am
Subject: RE: The NEW Snorkel kit
Has anyone tried a cowl snorkel like this guy did? I don't plan on fording
any deep rivers but I do like the idea of drawing cooler air in and I would
imagine this spot is a natural low pressure area. The setup seems pretty
easy and functional. I think this is going to go on my list of future
mods...
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/photo6.html
-Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: KC B [mailto:kcbemail@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:16 AM
To: jeepin_in_az@y...; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24249 From: Scott Thomas <sthomas@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:48am
Subject: RE: The NEW Snorkel kit
Hey did you all note the location of his air compressor? I like the idea of
it being mounted right there under the hood and oout of the way. Kind of
makes me think about relocating mine.
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
-----Original Message-----
From: Templar [mailto:templar1@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:10 AM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
Has anyone tried a cowl snorkel like this guy did? I don't plan on fording
any deep rivers but I do like the idea of drawing cooler air in and I would
imagine this spot is a natural low pressure area. The setup seems pretty
easy and functional. I think this is going to go on my list of future
mods...
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/photo6.html
-Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: KC B [mailto:kcbemail@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:16 AM
To: jeepin_in_az@y...; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24250 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:48am
Subject: Re: Re: Extending Brake lines
Yeah, that's the way I use to bleed my brakes too. But when I had trouble
getting my YJ's rear brakes bled effectively, I resorted to reading my
FSM. It said to use the following procedure:
(1) Open bleeder
(2) Press brake pedal ONCE and hold
(3) Close bleeder
(4) Release brake pedal
(5) Repeat
The manual had a special note say NOT to pump the pedal as doing so
causes air in the lines to be broken up into many small bubbles that
get disperse throughout the system and make it harder to bleed.
The end of the tube that's in the jar needs to remain submerged in
the fluid in the jar so that air cannot be sucked back up the tube.
I used this procedure and it worked great.
-Roger
Brent Lizakowski wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
> if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
> There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
> Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
> jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
> your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
> the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
> shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
> jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
> pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
> there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
> clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
> the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
> from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
> pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
> other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
> check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
> dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
> jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
>
> But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
> it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
> when I've needed brake work done in the past.
>
> Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
> through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
> when you might bust a line out on the trails.
>
> Brent
24251 From: Bryan Loveless <bryan.loveless@n...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:51am
Subject: autotranny in a '94 ZJ
I would like to change my girlfriend's autotranny fluid and transfercase fluid
this weekend... I have never worked with auto's before, can anyone give me any
advice or tips? I have the chilton for it, but it everything seems easyer to
read than to do. She has the 5.2L Limited ZJ.
Thanx,
--Bryan
Bryan.Loveless@n...
p.s. The unlock button still doesn't work, if you remember my past posts.
24252 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:57am
Subject: Re: Re: Extending Brake lines
Best dohickey : I spent $5 at napa for a hose with a check
valve in the hose. Place the hose over the bleed screw,
open the screw, step,release,repeat, then close the
screw and remove the hose. Much easier than trying to
holler to one another during the process :)
-d
Roger Tomas wrote:
>
> Yeah, that's the way I use to bleed my brakes too. But when I had trouble
> getting my YJ's rear brakes bled effectively, I resorted to reading my
> FSM. It said to use the following procedure:
>
> (1) Open bleeder
> (2) Press brake pedal ONCE and hold
> (3) Close bleeder
> (4) Release brake pedal
> (5) Repeat
>
> The manual had a special note say NOT to pump the pedal as doing so
> causes air in the lines to be broken up into many small bubbles that
> get disperse throughout the system and make it harder to bleed.
>
> The end of the tube that's in the jar needs to remain submerged in
> the fluid in the jar so that air cannot be sucked back up the tube.
>
> I used this procedure and it worked great.
>
> -Roger
>
> Brent Lizakowski wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> >
> > Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
> > if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
> > There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
> > Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
> > jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
> > your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
> > the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
> > shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
> > jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
> > pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
> > there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
> > clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
> > the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
> > from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
> > pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
> > other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
> > check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
> > dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
> > jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
> >
> > But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
> > it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
> > when I've needed brake work done in the past.
> >
> > Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
> > through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
> > when you might bust a line out on the trails.
> >
> > Brent
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24228 From: Rick Hall <ricknhall@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 4:42am
Subject: FSM
I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
Rick
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ADVERTISEMENT
24229 From: KC B <kcbemail@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 6:53am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
I've seen a few postings here talking about snorkels. Are these being added
to protect against "splash"? If not, how do you seal the distributor, the
ignition wires, etc, etc? I prefer going over rocks to going under water
myself, but I'm curious.
Ken
'97 non-submergible TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
24230 From: David Burke <davewburke@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 6:54am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkle kit
This is a perfect example of "You get what you pay for"
Mike Baney wrote:
> http://www.hardrockcrawlers.org/slides/display.cfm?sid=8&s=i&RequestTimeout=500
>
> Check out this guy's snorkle!
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24231 From: Scott Thomas <sthomas@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:11am
Subject: Extending Brake lines
Hello everyone,
I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed my brake
lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines from
Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a good place
to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes. That's why I'm
not going to try to do it myself.
Thanks,
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
24232 From: James Junkin <jjunkin@p...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:21am
Subject: Re: Re: Onboard Air
I kinda like the way my York looks! It will air up a 35x12.50 in less than
a minute. I used a York off a Grand Wagoneer with the Kilby kit which is a
breeze to install but is a little pricey. Sandens do just as well.
You can find Sandens with a serpentine pulley on late model Chrysler
products. They used many different mounting methods. The AC compressor
mounting on TJ's changed in 99 and again in 2K, but a bracket could be
fabbed up to adapt. What year is your TJ?
Check out www.onboardair.com
James Junkin
O||||||O
'81 SJ Cherokee 4" Skyjacker, 33x12.5 AT's "Midnight"
'98 TJ TeraFlexed, ARB's, 35x12.5 MT's "Crimson Ride"
'97 TJ "Loong term project"
----- Original Message -----
From: <jeeperaz@q...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 10:48 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] Re: Onboard Air
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York
24233 From: <fmw@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:39am
Subject: Re: FSM
I have a '98 TJ and paid a little under $100.00 for the FSM from a Jeep
dealer here in Tucson.
Fred
At 04:42 AM 05/24/2001 -0700, Rick Hall wrote:
>I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps
FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it
have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where
you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
>
>Rick
>
><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
><HTML><HEAD>
><META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1">
><META content="MSHTML 5.50.4613.1700" name=GENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone
>tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost
>$89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold
plated cover. It
>is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the
pricing is
>just structured that way.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rick</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
>
>
><br>
><tt>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the <a
href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/">Yahoo! Terms of Service</a>.</tt>
></br>
>
></BODY></HTML>
>
24234 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was always
under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a high
volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead to
seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the only
difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher flow
rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle the
max from either regulator.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@y...]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for tires.
Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would be
easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
--- Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> you could carry one of each.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...> wrote:
> I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> $8.00,
> it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> each end too, might come in useful.
>
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used both
> a
> > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> fellow
> > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things are
> > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the Kilby/York
> > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> tires.
> > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air you
> > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2 is
> > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> better
> > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> to
> > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> debates
> > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but in
> > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for Jeep
> > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> >
> > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > finally purchased.
> >
> > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> (new)
> > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it will
> > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> regulators,
> > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> at
> > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> >
> > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> >
> > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a 10#
> > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed pressure
> > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for a
> > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> >
> > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All you
> > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> >
> > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> >
> > Happy airing up to all of you!
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
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24235 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: Garmin Mapsource
Rick,
I don't mind people in the club sharing GPS tracks and waypoints...that is one benefit the club can supply.
I would strongly urge NO one to post our tracks on a web based server. I personally do not want the diaper tossing, beer drinking, trash leaving type of 4 wheeler using the trails we do. Obviously, they already do, but giving them directions will only make it worse. Ask Scott Duety (sp) about his feelings on the AZ trails book he published, now that has been out for a couple of years.
Second....with the eco-freaks on the rise, I would also prefer for them to not know of my wheelin' spots. I don't need their cables, spikes, etc. put on our trails (and yes, they have done that). Burning car dealerships and houses is bad enough....don't give them directions to where we go Jeepin'.
OK....I'll step off my soap box now, and I hope you understand where I am coming from. I have heard other club members make these same comments so I know that I am not the only one that feels this way. ;)
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Hall [mailto:ricknhall@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:22 AM
To: AZVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] Garmin Mapsource
I just got hold of a copy of Mapsource Topo. I know there are a few users of this software out there and was wondering if I could get a few routes/waypoints from anyone to start my collection. In fact if there are enough users maybe we could post the files in the files database.
Rick
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
24236 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: FSM
I bought mine for $99 plus shipping....a '98 TJ FSM manual. I don't know where you got your prices from. I called the 800 number given to me by my worthless DC dealer.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Hall [mailto:ricknhall@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 4:43 AM
To: AZVJC
Subject: [az_vjc] FSM
I have a 98TJ and need an FSM. Can anyone tell me why the 98 Model Jeeps FSM's cost $145 while 97, 99 & 2000 cost $89. If you have a 98 FSM does it have a gold plated cover. It is not a matter of supply and demand or where you get the manual the pricing is just structured that way.
Rick
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
24237 From: Stu Olson <solson8@q...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:54am
Subject: RE: Extending Brake lines
Scott,
You can by '95 YJ front brake lines and put them on your TJ. They are
several inches longer than the stock TJ lines and fit perfectly. They cost
about $18 each at Checker Auto.
You could have any corner garage install them. The Exon service station up
the street from me told me they would pressure bleed mine (that is the part
I have a problem with) for $5.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Thomas [mailto:sthomas@a...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 7:12 AM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [az_vjc] Extending Brake lines
Hello everyone,
I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed my brake
lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines from
Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a good place
to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes. That's why I'm
not going to try to do it myself.
Thanks,
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24238 From: Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:55am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
Yes, the snorkle can be used for going through deep water, and it can also
be used for cold air into the intake. Cold air means more HP and bettar
gas milage. If you think of where the air box is now, think of all the
heat generated in the engine compartment.
--- KC B <kcbemail@h...> wrote:
> I've seen a few postings here talking about snorkels. Are these being
> added
> to protect against "splash"? If not, how do you seal the distributor,
> the
> ignition wires, etc, etc? I prefer going over rocks to going under
> water
> myself, but I'm curious.
>
> Ken
> '97 non-submergible TJ
> __________________________________________________ _______________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
24239 From: Roxie <Roxie@t...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 7:55am
Subject: Re: Female Rockcrawling Championship
Hmmm....Mine wouldn't nearly be ready to do it in time - but the one problem
with the weekend they're doing it is that there is a JeepGirlClub 1st annual
event in the Badlands in Attica - lots of Jeep Girls from the midwest will
be hitting that - and some from the West-west (a few gals and I) will be
heading out for that...Maybe next year :-D
-Stacy-Michelle
TheJeepGoddess.com
"Silly Boys, Jeeps are for Girls"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Coley" <mt_b@y...>
To: <az_vjc@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 4:25 PM
Subject: [az_vjc] Female Rockcrawling Championship
> To the females on the board:
> http://www.sportsintherough.com/wnrcc/wnrcc.asp
>
> Tara wants to do this so bad, but we don't have the money to get her
> jeep up to par for it. Would need at the bare minimum to get in
> another locker and a winch, much less the rock protection and spare
> parts and cash to get there, and pay to have the jeep towed home then
> fix what breaks =).
>
> Anyone here gonna do it?
>
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
24240 From: KC B <kcbemail@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:16am
Subject: Re: The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
24241 From: David W. Smith <dwsmith69@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:22am
Subject: Re: Relocated to Mesa
David Smith
Crismon and Mckellips
91 SOA YJ
Eric Sauley
Brown and Ellsworth
93 YJ
I think there are quite a few poeple in this area. There just kinda of
lurkers here.
>From: thewickers@y...
>To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [az_vjc] Relocated to Mesa
>Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 03:53:08 -0000
>
>Well I have relocated to East Mesa, my closest cross roads are Elliot
>and Ellsworth. Anyone in that area, I am very excited to be so close
>to great wheelin.
>
>Alan
>94YJ SOA
>Locked Front&Rear
>Warn Winch
>
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
24242 From: Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:27am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
Hey Stu,
When you come over Saturday lets pop the bead off the rim on one of your tires so we can test this out ;)
Stu has some interesting points. The CO2 regulator I purchased is designed for running air tools and tire fillups with CO2. If you use a regular regulator you will not get the flow that the CO2 regulators provide. At least thats what the printed materials that came with the regulator state. C'mon Stu, be the guniea pig.
Scott
Stu Olson wrote:
I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was always
under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a high
volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead to
seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the only
difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher flow
rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle the
max from either regulator.
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for tires.
Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would be
easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
--- Scott Kruize wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> you could carry one of each.
>
> Scott
>
>
> Mike Baney wrote:
> I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> $8.00,
> it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> each end too, might come in useful.
>
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used both
> a
> > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> fellow
> > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things are
> > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the Kilby/York
> > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> tires.
> > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air you
> > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2 is
> > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> better
> > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> to
> > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> debates
> > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but in
> > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for Jeep
> > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> >
> > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > finally purchased.
> >
> > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> (new)
> > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it will
> > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> regulators,
> > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> at
> > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> >
> > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> >
> > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a 10#
> > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed pressure
> > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for a
> > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> >
> > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All you
> > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> >
> > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> >
> > Happy airing up to all of you!
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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24243 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:27am
Subject: Re: help with Bearings..
If the speed of the sound is the same speed as the tire rotating it's
NOT in the transfercase. t-case spins 3-4 times faster than tires.
Speed of the tire means it's tires-brakes-wheel bearings
or m-a-y-b-e axle shafts or possibly axle shaft u-joints.
-d (best guess is the wheel bearings)
James Smith wrote:
>
> Ok, Well i just got back from 4-wheelers supply and
> the guy there test drove my Jeep and came up with teh
> conclusion that the noise I was hearing in my front
> transfercase, was a worn out bearing.
>
> It will only make the noise when it is put under
> stress, it will not do it on flat ground. So he
> couldnt make it do it at all, he was just going off of
> what I was telling him.
>
> Ok, well,
> here is what it is doing.
> When I am going uphill or the front end has to pull, a
> noise that sounds almost exactly like a tire rubbing.
> I know it is not the tire rubbing though.
>
> Does anyone have any clue to what I am describing.
> And if it is true that the front bearing in the
> transfercase is gone. How hard is it to replace it?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> Smitty
>
> 95 YJ 4 banger
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
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24244 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:46am
Subject: Re: Re: Onboard Air
The large Yorks and large (XJ) Sanden units produce just
about the same volume of air... I did the math when
trying to decide what approach is best.
My results :
94YJ -> sanden (bolt on)
86CJ -> york (bolt on)
HTH,
-d
jeeperaz@q... wrote:
>
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York . Sandens and most any stock ac compressor
> work fine for on-board air.
>
> The internal oiling of a York is a bit overrated IMO.
>
> LarryM
>
> --- In az_vjc@y..., linda luik <minihummer@w...> wrote:
> > If you don't plan on ever having air conditioning, pick up a used
> Sanden
> > rotary compressor and get the A/C bracketry from a salvage yard. I
> think
> > TJs use these. I paid $75 (including a pretty good warranty, 1 year
> I
> > think) from Amer Auto Recyclers down on Kyrene and Chandler Blvd
> (?).
> > Beware that the rotary compressors don't have oil sumps like Yorks
> so an
> > external oiler will be needed. Use air tool/compressor oil for you
> > onboard air compressor.
> >
> > Here's my setup (with notes)
> > http://home.att.net/~minihummer/ZJ_topics/oba.html
> >
> > Linda
> >
> > Jake Wagner wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi again!
> > >
> > > I've heard some people mention that they use their AC
> > > compressor for onboard air. How does this set-up
> > > work? I don't have AC in my TJ, but if this an option
> > > I may looking into it rather than a York or a
> > > Quick-Air mounted system.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jake
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24245 From: Siade, Randy <randy.siade@u...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:53am
Subject: RE: Re: Onboard Air
You can find a good York in a junk yard for $25. I bought mine at Eagle
Salvage about 5 years ago and it still works great.
-----Original Message-----
From: Damon Gentile [mailto:dgentile@s...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:46 AM
To: jeeperaz@q...
Cc: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] Re: Onboard Air
The large Yorks and large (XJ) Sanden units produce just
about the same volume of air... I did the math when
trying to decide what approach is best.
My results :
94YJ -> sanden (bolt on)
86CJ -> york (bolt on)
HTH,
-d
jeeperaz@q... wrote:
>
> I agree with Linda. You will pay a lot less and end up with
> something that works just as well and will look better in your engine
> compartment than a York . Sandens and most any stock ac compressor
> work fine for on-board air.
>
> The internal oiling of a York is a bit overrated IMO.
>
> LarryM
>
> --- In az_vjc@y..., linda luik <minihummer@w...> wrote:
> > If you don't plan on ever having air conditioning, pick up a used
> Sanden
> > rotary compressor and get the A/C bracketry from a salvage yard. I
> think
> > TJs use these. I paid $75 (including a pretty good warranty, 1 year
> I
> > think) from Amer Auto Recyclers down on Kyrene and Chandler Blvd
> (?).
> > Beware that the rotary compressors don't have oil sumps like Yorks
> so an
> > external oiler will be needed. Use air tool/compressor oil for you
> > onboard air compressor.
> >
> > Here's my setup (with notes)
> > http://home.att.net/~minihummer/ZJ_topics/oba.html
> >
> > Linda
> >
> > Jake Wagner wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi again!
> > >
> > > I've heard some people mention that they use their AC
> > > compressor for onboard air. How does this set-up
> > > work? I don't have AC in my TJ, but if this an option
> > > I may looking into it rather than a York or a
> > > Quick-Air mounted system.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance!
> > >
> > > Jake
> > >
> > > __________________________________________________
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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24246 From: Brent Lizakowski <brent_lizakowski@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 8:58am
Subject: Re: Extending Brake lines
Scott,
Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
when I've needed brake work done in the past.
Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
when you might bust a line out on the trails.
Brent
--- In az_vjc@y..., "Scott Thomas" <sthomas@a...> wrote:
> Hello everyone,
> I have now have 3.5" of lift and 33" tires and I have changed
my brake
> lines out yet. I want to do new braded lines. I can get the lines
from
> Tomken for $76 including tax and shipping, does anyone know of a
good place
> to have them installed for a reasonable price? It's brakes.
That's why I'm
> not going to try to do it myself.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott Thomas
> 97' Tj
24247 From: Mike Baney <jeepin_in_az@y...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:05am
Subject: RE: $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
Stu already confirmed that I get PSI and CFM confused! ;)
Air tools should run at approx 90 PSI correct? You have the 100# reg,
does it have a gauge? If it does, do you really need the gauge? Just
something I am curious about. Well besides to tell when you are out, but
the wait of the tank is noticeable when you are running low.
--- Scott Kruize <osmtj@y...> wrote:
>
>
> Hey Stu,
> When you come over Saturday lets pop the bead off the rim on one of your
> tires so we can test this out ;)
> Stu has some interesting points. The CO2 regulator I purchased is
> designed for running air tools and tire fillups with CO2. If you use a
> regular regulator you will not get the flow that the CO2 regulators
> provide. At least thats what the printed materials that came with the
> regulator state. C'mon Stu, be the guniea pig.
> Scott
> Stu Olson <solson8@q...> wrote:
> I could be completely wrong, so see if I am correct on this. I was
> always
> under the impression that seating a tire bead requires one to deliver a
> high
> volume of air (at pressure) to quickly expand the tire and get the bead
> to
> seat. I have seen these "tire seaters" in the catalogs designed just for
> this....they dump a huge quantity of air in a second or two.
>
> So....you have a CO2 tank with a regulator. One being 100# and the other
> being 150#. Given the tank and supply hose being common, would not the
> only
> difference be the max pressure that is delivered by the regulator. I was
> not under the impression that a 150# regulator also supplied a higher
> flow
> rate (unless it is a high flow regulator?).
>
> Maybe I am completely off track here, but it seems like little would be
> gained other than the max pressure....and the tires we use can't handle
> the
> max from either regulator.
>
> Stu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Baney [mailto:jeepin_in_az@y...]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2001 11:03 PM
> To: Scott Kruize; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [az_vjc] $120 10# CO2 setup (including first fill!)
>
>
> I did think of that after I bought it, I have been thinking of a way to
> make QD for the regulators, 100 for the air tools, and the 150 for
> tires.
> Kind of have best of both worlds. I think putting a bead back on would
> be
> easier with the 150, but I have not *yet* had to do it.
>
>
> --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> >
> > Mike,
> >
> > The 150 psi spring is good for tires but beyond the spec of air tools.
> > Thats why I went with the 100 psi. These regulators are so cheap that
> > you could carry one of each.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> > Mike Baney wrote:
> > I have about the same set up as Scott, I went with a 150 lbs spring
> > though. I got my 50 ft. coil hose at Home Depot, 200psi rating for
> > $8.00,
> > it was cheaper than the 25 ft.! Go figure! I did a quick disonnect on
> > each end too, might come in useful.
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Scott Kruize wrote:
> > >
> > > I finally did it! I've now got an onboard CO2 setup. Having used
> both
> > a
> > > Kilby/York setup and an onboard CO2 setup recently on a couple of
> > fellow
> > > Jeepers rigs I decided to go with the CO2. I found that all things
> are
> > > fairly equal until you use up your reserve capacity on the
> Kilby/York
> > > setup (whether that is a small tank or bumper capacity) the CO2 will
> > > then run circles around the onboard York setup on the remaining 3
> > tires.
> > > Also by the time you mount extra reserve tanks for the onboard air
> you
> > > are taking up as much if not more space than the 10# tank. The CO2
> is
> > > the better choice for reseating a bead on the trail. It is also a
> > better
> > > choice for running airtools IMO since it is portable, and does not
> > > depend on running the vehicle to provide pressure, and provides that
> > > pressure consistently without the need to wait for the onboard tanks
> > to
> > > fill before being able to run the tools again. I know there are
> > debates
> > > on the heat expansion characteristics of CO2 vs compressed air but
> in
> > > most of the forums I've frequented it seems to be a non issue for
> Jeep
> > > use. Most of us are not running our tires at 100 mph :)
> > >
> > > Here are some price breakdowns that I researched including what I
> > > finally purchased.
> > >
> > > - The Kilby kit runs $200 and York compressor and clutch run $295
> > (new)
> > > from Kilby. If you use junkyard parts you'll get by cheaper so it
> will
> > > cost between $200-$500 not to mention an additional $150 for
> > regulators,
> > > manifold, hoses, pressure safety valve etc. And if you add 5-10 gal
> > > reserve figure on adding at least another $50 to that. So now your
> > > running between $400 and $700. These numbers come from some writeups
> > at
> > > reputable offroad sites and www.onboardair.com
> > >
> > > - The 10# Powertank runs $319.00 plus another 49.99 for the monting
> > > bracket. Thats almost $370!
> > >
> > > The setup I purchased was from Vern Lewis Welding Supply. I got a
> 10#
> > > aluminum tank w/ valve for $75. I also bought a 100 psi fixed
> pressure
> > > CO2 regulator for $26.50 and the first fill was $11.06 ! Once I've
> > > bought the first tank I can walk in any day and exchange my tank for
> a
> > > full one for only $11.06 Monday-Saturday. A vehicle mounting bracket
> > > can be had for $35 at a fire ext supply house. Total cost with tax -
> > > $120.66 ! A vehicle fire ext mounting bracket can be had for $35. I
> > > still need to pick one up today or tomorrow.
> > >
> > > Did I mention that the regulator is already threaded 1/4" NPT? All
> you
> > > have to do is screw in your airline or coupler and your set!
> > >
> > > They are great to deal with and answered all of my questions. If you
> > > live on the westside they are off Dysart Rd a couple miles south of
> > > I-10. In Phoenix they are located at 275 S Black Canyon Highway.
> > >
> > > Happy airing up to all of you!
> > >
> > > Scott
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Do You Yahoo!?
> > > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Mike Baney
> > 2001 TJ
> >
> > __________________________________________________
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do You Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
>
>
> =====
> Mike Baney
> 2001 TJ
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Auctions $2 Million Sweepstakes - Got something to sell?
=====
Mike Baney
2001 TJ
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
24248 From: Templar <templar1@h...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:10am
Subject: RE: The NEW Snorkel kit
Has anyone tried a cowl snorkel like this guy did? I don't plan on fording
any deep rivers but I do like the idea of drawing cooler air in and I would
imagine this spot is a natural low pressure area. The setup seems pretty
easy and functional. I think this is going to go on my list of future
mods...
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/photo6.html
-Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: KC B [mailto:kcbemail@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:16 AM
To: jeepin_in_az@y...; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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24249 From: Scott Thomas <sthomas@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:48am
Subject: RE: The NEW Snorkel kit
Hey did you all note the location of his air compressor? I like the idea of
it being mounted right there under the hood and oout of the way. Kind of
makes me think about relocating mine.
Scott Thomas
97' Tj
-----Original Message-----
From: Templar [mailto:templar1@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 9:10 AM
To: az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
Has anyone tried a cowl snorkel like this guy did? I don't plan on fording
any deep rivers but I do like the idea of drawing cooler air in and I would
imagine this spot is a natural low pressure area. The setup seems pretty
easy and functional. I think this is going to go on my list of future
mods...
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/photo6.html
-Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: KC B [mailto:kcbemail@h...]
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 8:16 AM
To: jeepin_in_az@y...; az_vjc@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [az_vjc] The NEW Snorkel kit
The hot air part I understand, but I can't believe that you could submerge
your distributor and keep running. In the old days (WWII) they would pack
Cosmoline grease around the distributor and bury the spark plugs in it as
well. The M38's were water-proof from the factory, but I don't believe any
of the CJ's, YJ's, or TJ's were or are.
Is there anyone out there who actually fords 5-foot-deep streams? How do
you do it?
Ken
'97 hi-n-dry TJ
__________________________________________________ _______________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
24250 From: Roger Tomas <tomasr@a...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:48am
Subject: Re: Re: Extending Brake lines
Yeah, that's the way I use to bleed my brakes too. But when I had trouble
getting my YJ's rear brakes bled effectively, I resorted to reading my
FSM. It said to use the following procedure:
(1) Open bleeder
(2) Press brake pedal ONCE and hold
(3) Close bleeder
(4) Release brake pedal
(5) Repeat
The manual had a special note say NOT to pump the pedal as doing so
causes air in the lines to be broken up into many small bubbles that
get disperse throughout the system and make it harder to bleed.
The end of the tube that's in the jar needs to remain submerged in
the fluid in the jar so that air cannot be sucked back up the tube.
I used this procedure and it worked great.
-Roger
Brent Lizakowski wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
> if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
> There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
> Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
> jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
> your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
> the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
> shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
> jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
> pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
> there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
> clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
> the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
> from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
> pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
> other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
> check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
> dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
> jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
>
> But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
> it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
> when I've needed brake work done in the past.
>
> Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
> through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
> when you might bust a line out on the trails.
>
> Brent
24251 From: Bryan Loveless <bryan.loveless@n...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:51am
Subject: autotranny in a '94 ZJ
I would like to change my girlfriend's autotranny fluid and transfercase fluid
this weekend... I have never worked with auto's before, can anyone give me any
advice or tips? I have the chilton for it, but it everything seems easyer to
read than to do. She has the 5.2L Limited ZJ.
Thanx,
--Bryan
Bryan.Loveless@n...
p.s. The unlock button still doesn't work, if you remember my past posts.
24252 From: Damon Gentile <dgentile@s...>
Date: Thu May 24, 2001 9:57am
Subject: Re: Re: Extending Brake lines
Best dohickey : I spent $5 at napa for a hose with a check
valve in the hose. Place the hose over the bleed screw,
open the screw, step,release,repeat, then close the
screw and remove the hose. Much easier than trying to
holler to one another during the process :)
-d
Roger Tomas wrote:
>
> Yeah, that's the way I use to bleed my brakes too. But when I had trouble
> getting my YJ's rear brakes bled effectively, I resorted to reading my
> FSM. It said to use the following procedure:
>
> (1) Open bleeder
> (2) Press brake pedal ONCE and hold
> (3) Close bleeder
> (4) Release brake pedal
> (5) Repeat
>
> The manual had a special note say NOT to pump the pedal as doing so
> causes air in the lines to be broken up into many small bubbles that
> get disperse throughout the system and make it harder to bleed.
>
> The end of the tube that's in the jar needs to remain submerged in
> the fluid in the jar so that air cannot be sucked back up the tube.
>
> I used this procedure and it worked great.
>
> -Roger
>
> Brent Lizakowski wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> >
> > Replacing brake lines is a fairly easy thing to do. It's a lot easier
> > if you have someone to help you when you need to bleed the system.
> > There are breather valves for each brake line at the brake.
> > Basically, you just hook up a tube to each valve and run it into a
> > jar with some brake fluid in the bottom. Have your helper climb into
> > your Jeep and pump the pedal a few times. While he's still holding
> > the pedal down, open the valve and some fluid will come out. Then
> > shut the valve and repeat. You should see bubbles in the fluid in the
> > jar or in the line itself. Make sure your helper doesn't release the
> > pedal when you've got the valve open. Keep up the process until
> > there's no more air bubbles visible in the fluid (it helps to use a
> > clear tubing that makes a tight seal around the valve). Now, this is
> > the part I always forget... I think you start at the brake farthest
> > from the master cylinder and work your way to the closest brake: rear
> > pass, rear driver's, front pass, front driver's. (it might be the
> > other way around, I always have to look it up). Also, be sure to
> > check your master cylinder often to make sure you don't run the well
> > dry, or you'll have to start all over. Be sure to have a good sized
> > jug of brake fluid on hand just in case.
> >
> > But, like Stu said. Just about any grease monkey at any garage can do
> > it. (It's that easy to do). I've always had good luck with Brake Max
> > when I've needed brake work done in the past.
> >
> > Personally, I'd find someone near you that's done it before and go
> > through it with them. It's a skill worth learning. You never know
> > when you might bust a line out on the trails.
> >
> > Brent
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/